Broderie Anglaise Partlet

I found a broderie anglaise skirt at the Op Shop (Thrift Store) for $2 and thought how pretty it would be as a partlet. I wasn't sure if there would be enough fabric, but I thought that it was worth the risk for $2.

Now, I know that broderie anglaise is a more modern style of embroidered decoration, and that this was made by machine, but I thought it probably wouldn't be too obviously modern if trimmed as a partlet. After all, cutwork and pulled work were done in the sixteenth century. 

I used my trusty collarless partlet pattern and cut the pieces out. As usual, I french seamed the sides and shoulder seams, and hand finished them. I did a narrow zigzag around all the edges, but the cut outs in the embroidery meant that there were shaggy edges even after finishing. I was disheartened, and put the piece aside for (mumble, mumble,) an unspecified amount of time.

Then last year I started working on my WIPs and UFOs again and pulled the partlet out. I decided to use a faux silk (polyester) bias binding to trim the edges. I machined the outer seam and hand sewed everything else.

I liked the way the binding tidied up the edges, but it just looked too shiny in outside light. So I went through my stash looking for some lace that could go over the bias to tone down the shiny and add a bit more to the piece. When I found a suitable cotton lace, I hand sewed it on.

I toyed with the idea of embroidering along the front of the lace with embroidery floss but didn't like the way it looked. It feels like it needs a little something to elevate it a bit, but I'm not sure what. I have some gilt cord, but it is not especially durable and I throw my partlets in the washing machine after wearing. I'll stew on it a bit and see if anything jumps out at me next time I am rummaging through my stash.

UFO Pile of Shame and The 100 Day Project Inspiration

I've been spending some time lately trying to prioritise my works in progress (WIPs) and UFOs (UnFinished Objects) so that I can really get some finished this year. I am very good at starting projects- buoyed by the excitement of something new - but lack of energy, lack of time, and often lack of confidence make the project stall. It is amazing how quickly time flies, and suddenly something you put aside 'for a little while' has been sitting around for a year (or more). Covid certainly didn't help with any of that!

In a happy coincidence, I was reading a social media post by the Baroness of Politarchopolis and she mentioned #The100DayProject. #The100DayProject | online art community It is basically on online project to encourage people to be creative and commit to 100 days of creating. Very much the same as #100 Days of A&S which I loved being involved in, and which has set up really good habits of doing at least ten minutes a day on SCA A&S projects (and which I have pretty much continued with). This new project has given me a shot of motivation to spend the next 100 days focusing on UFOs and WIPs. Probably for only a short time every day as I am at a very low spot right now health wise, but every little bit helps.

I won't be posting day-by-day updates on what I have been doing because I think it will take a while to achieve anything as I will be working slowly (and it will be boring to readers). But I hope to at least have some Finished Article victory posts for you soon!

(Please imagine a tidy little pile of nicely folded UFOs here. In reality my UFO/WIP projects would probably take up half a dozen storage tubs and that is downright embarrassing.) I try to console myself with the thought that a lot of them are embroidery which takes a very long time to do.

Red Velveteen Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves

Sleeves again this week, and boy! am I happy with these! So rich and soft - I love them. I got the velveteen before the quality of cotton velveteen being offered by my local Spotlight dropped, and the fabric is lush.

These were created in the same way as previous iterations: the pattern is my roomy, self-drafted pattern that is super comfortable and very wearable. The centre back seam of velveteen and stash fabric lining was machine sewn and hand felled. Then the pieces were put together, wrong way around, and machine sewn. The arc at the top of the sleeve was clipped, and then the sleeve turned right way out ("bagged out"). I generally choose to do a small whip stitch around the top of the sleeve to stop the lining rolling out with wear, and I did that with these. I usually embroider an 'L' on the left sleeve lining before hemming also, just to help with speedier dressing on those days when I am in a rush or brain foggy.

I hemmed the outer sleeve first, anchoring it with small stab stitches. Then I hemmed the lining; turning the lining under quite a bit more so that it won't show when I move my arms.

The final step is to slog through one of my hated jobs - eyelets. I am getting faster at them, but they are very hard on my sore hands. I generally use 4 strands of waxed sewing thread, and use an awl to make a hole. I then do a double running stitch around the hole and then cover the edges with what is essentially a satin stitch.

I am super happy with this pair of sleeves; they feel so wonderful to touch.

Purple Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves

I'm still working on the UFO pile, and this week's completed item is a pair of Italian style tie-on sleeves in linen. 

They are lined in black cotton remnants, with hand worked eyelets. I had to ease in the linen on one of the sleeves, which has led to a small amount of wrinkling around the wrist on one of the sleeves. Hopefully it will settle with wear, or at least not be noticeable, because I don't feel inspired to unpick the sleeve and lining hem and re-sew the inner seam of the lining (especially since the inner seams on sleeve and linings are felled).

 

Italian Renaissance Hair Jewellery

Yet another hair band, with pieces from two different filigree bracelets sewn onto a velvet ribbon band and backed with grosgrain ribbon to reduce slippage. I used three wig clips on the back for extra security.

Italian Renaissance Hair Jewellery

 Another hair band this week, constructed in the same way as the previous ones. This one has necklace components sewn on to the velvet ribbon. Probably too sparkly to really be appropriate for sixteenth century, but I couldn't resist it!

This one has 2mm seed beads sewn along the edges. I recently saw a beading technique demonstrated on Instagram that might be useful for this sort or project - I will let you know how I go.

Italian Renaissance Hair Jewellery

I recently finished another billament/hair accessory. This one has been sitting around in a half-finished state for literally years because I wasn't super happy with how it looked.

The flower shaped findings came to be with a 'patina' that I wasn't delighted about, and when I made the band up, it just seemed to look a bit shabby and be lacking something. So it sat in the UFO pile for a long time.

I resolved to finish it as part of my recent UFO completion drive, and I added matte gold seed beads (4mm) on the joins between the flat findings, to disguise the stitches and give add a bit of textural variety. I then started sewing the grosgrain ribbon on the back, and added white tiny seed beads as I went. When that was complete, I added three wig clips on the back to hold it in my hair.

It is still not my favourite accessory that I have ever made, but I am pleased that it is finished. Hopefully it will look nice when worn.

 

This image (a detail of Sister Minerva from 'Portrait of the family of the artist' by Sofonisba Anguissola) shows how the band will be worn; either in front of dressed hair such as hair taping, or in front of a caul. Image from: Sofonisba Anguissola Portrait of the family of the artist. Fragment. Sister minerva, 1568, 122×157 cm: Description of the artwork | Arthive

Here is the full painting:

(from Sofonisba Anguissola | Europeana)

Italian Renaissance Hair Jewellery

I'm having a break from boring sleeve sewing and finishing up some headwear that has been sitting around for a long time.

I really like the Italian style of wearing a necklace or decorated band in the hair in front of the braid like in this portrait by Sofonisba Anguissola

Image from: Sofonisba Anguissola - Portrait of the Artist's Sisters Playing Chess - WGA00697 - The Game of Chess (Sofonisba Anguissola) - Wikipedia

Since a lot of our SCA events are outside in public places, I don't feel confident pinning jewellery to my hair, and instead have been sewing jewellery components and beads to velvet bands that are secured into the hair with wig clips.

It is fiddly work, doesn't take up much room to store, and very easy to put off for another day!

I recently finished this one, which has bracelet pieces sewn onto a velvet band and separated with gold coils. The edges have tiny gold seed beads sewn on, and the back is faced with grosgrain ribbon (which helps grip the hair). I use a central wig clip and one at each end to secure.

I got a lot of elements suitable for this type of band from shops like Lovisa, Diva and Collete pre-Covid. I don't really go shopping like I used to, but thrift stores and op shops can be a good place to pick up old bracelets that you can break down to make this style of headwear.

May Day Challenge - Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves #3 (Purple)

 Last year Duchess Constanzia Moralez of Lochac set a Challenge to all those interested -The May Day Challenge (a personal challenge on 'how to improve your SCA in any way by May Day, AS LVII'). 

Image credit: R. Vess

My Challenge was to work on that UnFinished Object pile and get some items finished. My friend won Crown during the Challenge, and so some of my energy was diverted into helping create garb for Them and Their Household, but I did manage to get some items finished before the Challenge ended.

This pair of sleeves had been languishing in the UFO pile, cut out but unsewn. I machine sewed the centre back seam on the lining and outer fabrics, and stab stitched the seams open. Then the sleeves were joined at the shoulder seam and the lining and outer parts were hemmed individually. I then whip stitched around the top of each sleeve to prevent any movement in the lining, and worked five eyelets at the top of each sleeve.

These sleeves look blue in the picture but are actually purple.

May Day Challenge - Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves #2 (White with gold trim)

 Last year Duchess Constanzia Moralez of Lochac set a Challenge to all those interested -The May Day Challenge (a personal challenge on 'how to improve your SCA in any way by May Day, AS LVII'). 

Image credit: R. Vess

My Challenge was to work on that UnFinished Object pile and get some items finished. My friend won Crown during the Challenge, and so some of my energy was diverted into helping create garb for Them and Their Household, but I did manage to get some items finished before the Challenge ended.

Second is another pair of sleeves that just needed two more eyelets added on each sleeve and the top edge whip- stitched to be wearable.

May Day Challenge - Italian Style Tie-on Sleeves #1 (Cream damask)

Last year Duchess Constanzia Moralez of Lochac set a Challenge to all those interested -The May Day Challenge (a personal challenge on how to improve your SCA in any way by May Day, AS LVII). 

Image credit: R. Vess

My Challenge was to work on that UnFinished Object pile and get some items finished. My friend won Crown during the Challenge, and so some of my energy was diverted into helping create garb for Them and Their Household, but I did manage to get some items finished before the Challenge ended.

First up is a pair of sleeves that just needed two more eyelets added on each sleeve. (An easy task to put off, because I hate doing eyelets!)

Pale Blue Tie-on Sleeves in the Italian Style

Another pair of sleeves complete and out of the UFO pile! This pair is made from a light blue brocade type fabric that I found in a remnant bin at a thrift store and is based on the Italian tie-on style.

The camera has was washed the colour out a bit:

The sleeves were created in the same way as outlined in my previous post. 

As usual, the eyelets were what was holding me up.

I've embroidered an 'L' on the left sleeve because I always seem to be in a rush when it is time for events, and nothing wastes more time or adds more stress than struggling into a big dress only to find out you laced your sleeves on wrong - and then have to struggle back out of it, unlace them and then re-lace them on the correct sleeves. Ask me how I know, haha.