Red Velveteen Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves

Sleeves again this week, and boy! am I happy with these! So rich and soft - I love them. I got the velveteen before the quality of cotton velveteen being offered by my local Spotlight dropped, and the fabric is lush.

These were created in the same way as previous iterations: the pattern is my roomy, self-drafted pattern that is super comfortable and very wearable. The centre back seam of velveteen and stash fabric lining was machine sewn and hand felled. Then the pieces were put together, wrong way around, and machine sewn. The arc at the top of the sleeve was clipped, and then the sleeve turned right way out ("bagged out"). I generally choose to do a small whip stitch around the top of the sleeve to stop the lining rolling out with wear, and I did that with these. I usually embroider an 'L' on the left sleeve lining before hemming also, just to help with speedier dressing on those days when I am in a rush or brain foggy.

I hemmed the outer sleeve first, anchoring it with small stab stitches. Then I hemmed the lining; turning the lining under quite a bit more so that it won't show when I move my arms.

The final step is to slog through one of my hated jobs - eyelets. I am getting faster at them, but they are very hard on my sore hands. I generally use 4 strands of waxed sewing thread, and use an awl to make a hole. I then do a double running stitch around the hole and then cover the edges with what is essentially a satin stitch.

I am super happy with this pair of sleeves; they feel so wonderful to touch.

Purple Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves

I'm still working on the UFO pile, and this week's completed item is a pair of Italian style tie-on sleeves in linen. 

They are lined in black cotton remnants, with hand worked eyelets. I had to ease in the linen on one of the sleeves, which has led to a small amount of wrinkling around the wrist on one of the sleeves. Hopefully it will settle with wear, or at least not be noticeable, because I don't feel inspired to unpick the sleeve and lining hem and re-sew the inner seam of the lining (especially since the inner seams on sleeve and linings are felled).

 

May Day Challenge - Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves #3 (Purple)

 Last year Duchess Constanzia Moralez of Lochac set a Challenge to all those interested -The May Day Challenge (a personal challenge on 'how to improve your SCA in any way by May Day, AS LVII'). 

Image credit: R. Vess

My Challenge was to work on that UnFinished Object pile and get some items finished. My friend won Crown during the Challenge, and so some of my energy was diverted into helping create garb for Them and Their Household, but I did manage to get some items finished before the Challenge ended.

This pair of sleeves had been languishing in the UFO pile, cut out but unsewn. I machine sewed the centre back seam on the lining and outer fabrics, and stab stitched the seams open. Then the sleeves were joined at the shoulder seam and the lining and outer parts were hemmed individually. I then whip stitched around the top of each sleeve to prevent any movement in the lining, and worked five eyelets at the top of each sleeve.

These sleeves look blue in the picture but are actually purple.

May Day Challenge - Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves #2 (White with gold trim)

 Last year Duchess Constanzia Moralez of Lochac set a Challenge to all those interested -The May Day Challenge (a personal challenge on 'how to improve your SCA in any way by May Day, AS LVII'). 

Image credit: R. Vess

My Challenge was to work on that UnFinished Object pile and get some items finished. My friend won Crown during the Challenge, and so some of my energy was diverted into helping create garb for Them and Their Household, but I did manage to get some items finished before the Challenge ended.

Second is another pair of sleeves that just needed two more eyelets added on each sleeve and the top edge whip- stitched to be wearable.

May Day Challenge - Italian Style Tie-on Sleeves #1 (Cream damask)

Last year Duchess Constanzia Moralez of Lochac set a Challenge to all those interested -The May Day Challenge (a personal challenge on how to improve your SCA in any way by May Day, AS LVII). 

Image credit: R. Vess

My Challenge was to work on that UnFinished Object pile and get some items finished. My friend won Crown during the Challenge, and so some of my energy was diverted into helping create garb for Them and Their Household, but I did manage to get some items finished before the Challenge ended.

First up is a pair of sleeves that just needed two more eyelets added on each sleeve. (An easy task to put off, because I hate doing eyelets!)

Blue and Gold Tie-On Sleeves

I had an event back in September and I thought a new pair of sleeves would perk up my old gown.
I used an existing sleeve as a pattern.

The fashion fabric was sold to me as 'silk and gilt.'

I cut out the sleeve in the fashion fabric and lining in some solid cotton broadcloth. I machine zigzagged round the edges for stability.

I machine sewed the centre back seam, and then hand tacked all the seams open. Then I slid the sleeve and lining together (wrong sides out) and pinned together at the top.

I machine stitched around the top, clipped my curves and then turned the sleeve right way out. I use a pin to make sure that the seam is fully pulled out and sitting nicely, and then pin the lining into a secure position. I then whip stitch around the top of the sleeve to make sure the lining doesn't move around when I am wearing the sleeve.

I mark the positions of the eyelets to correspond with the ties on my gown. I use an awl and a knitting needle to make the holes. I use a double running stitch to sew around the outside of the hole and then I go over the edges with a satin stitch in thick thread.

I added a decorative tabbed piece at the wrist. This decorative effect can be seen in many sixteenth century portraits. I double over a piece of fabric, and sew it together. I then sandwich it in place at the edge of bodice or sleeve (as in this case.) I whip stitched it into place on the outside and inside. Sometimes I add a running stitch along the inner edge for extra strength. I usually don't snip the tabs until it is sewn into place; it depends on how tired I am! Be very careful when snipping that you don't catch the actual sleeve. I usually do 0.5 cm or 1 cm tabs (snipping every 5mm or 10mm).

The bodice edge on this gown shows a similar tabbed effect. 

Portrait of a Woman inspired by Lucretia by Lorenzo Lotto c 1530

Image from: https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/lorenzo-lotto-portrait-of-a-woman-inspired-by-lucretia

This portrait of the lovely Eleanor of Toledo shows a tabbed edge to her bodice.

Portrait of Eleanor of Toldeo by Agnolo Bronzino

Image from: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/75/Agnolo_Bronzino_-_Eleonora_of_Toledo_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg

You can see tabbed bodice edges on several of Eleanor's gowns, including this one: https://www.alamy.com/portrait-of-eleanor-of-toledo-1522-1562-museum-staatliche-museen-berlin-image212355471.html

Supervision by Bitey

The new sleeves with my black gown

I was really happy with how this project turned out. I am looking forward to making up some more sleeves in different fabrics. I know I have said it before, but a range of tie-on sleeves really are a great investment and a valuable addition to an Italian noble wardrobe.

Italian style Tie-On Renaissance Sleeves - Aqua Blue

Okay, one more pair finished from the Huge Unfinished Sleeve Pile. I tried to get a few more pictures to explain the process this time, too.

This is not the aqua blue sleeve, but is the same pattern shape.

The sleeves and linings are sewn up and then I stab-stitch the seams open.

You can see the tiny dots running along the outside of the seam below.

Once the seams are finished, I put the 'good' sides of the sleeve and lining together (so that I can see the messy inner seam on my side) and run a line of stitching around the top of the sleeve to join them together. If there are tabs on the top of the sleeve, you need to position them before you sew this seam, and also make sure that they are positioned so that they won't move around when sewing (and crucially) so that the tabs will be on the outside of the sleeve when you turn it the right way out.

Once this seam is sewn, I put clips in the seam allowance to reduce puckering when the sleeve is turned the right way out.

Next, I turn the sleeve right way out. All seams should be hidden inside the sleeve and only nice finished seams visible when you look inside as well as on the outside. I usually put a line of small whip stitching around the top of the sleeve to make sure the lining doesn't roll out or move.


 Notice the whip stitching around the top of the sleeve.

Making sure that the lining is not tucked up inside and is sitting smoothly, I measure my hem allowance. I also zigzag my edges for durability.

This sleeve has been hemmed; you can just see the tiny dots showing on the outside which is the hemming line. I clip triangles into the outer and inner fabrics to reduce puckering and bunching.

I prefer to hem  my lining separately to reduce puckering. I use a little whip stitch, same as on the fashion layer of fabric.

 The hemmed sleeve showing the lining

Working the eyelets on top of the sleeves: the holes correspond with the ties in the gown. I make a hole with an awl, and then increase the size of the hole with a bigger awl that I made out of a wooden knitting needle. I go around the hole with a line of double running stitch. I usually use four strands of thread for strength. I don't use buttonhole stitch because I think it adds too much bulk on top of the double running stitch - I just go over the edges with satin stitch. The eyelets turn out very durable and are big enough that lucet cords can be threaded through without needing a bodkin. This is important as friends usually lace my sleeves on for me at events and I don't want to make it harder for them than it has to be!

 The completed sleeves, waiting to be tried on.

Ridiculously boring sleeve edging

My smugness at my organisational skills and forward thinking did not last long ;-)
The obvious downside to planning ahead and having a dozen odd new pairs of sleeves cut out waiting to be decorated and sewn is that they (and their linings) all need to be edged for durability. Guess what my sewing time this week will be spent doing?