Broderie Anglaise Partlet

I found a broderie anglaise skirt at the Op Shop (Thrift Store) for $2 and thought how pretty it would be as a partlet. I wasn't sure if there would be enough fabric, but I thought that it was worth the risk for $2.

Now, I know that broderie anglaise is a more modern style of embroidered decoration, and that this was made by machine, but I thought it probably wouldn't be too obviously modern if trimmed as a partlet. After all, cutwork and pulled work were done in the sixteenth century. 

I used my trusty collarless partlet pattern and cut the pieces out. As usual, I french seamed the sides and shoulder seams, and hand finished them. I did a narrow zigzag around all the edges, but the cut outs in the embroidery meant that there were shaggy edges even after finishing. I was disheartened, and put the piece aside for (mumble, mumble,) an unspecified amount of time.

Then last year I started working on my WIPs and UFOs again and pulled the partlet out. I decided to use a faux silk (polyester) bias binding to trim the edges. I machined the outer seam and hand sewed everything else.

I liked the way the binding tidied up the edges, but it just looked too shiny in outside light. So I went through my stash looking for some lace that could go over the bias to tone down the shiny and add a bit more to the piece. When I found a suitable cotton lace, I hand sewed it on.

I toyed with the idea of embroidering along the front of the lace with embroidery floss but didn't like the way it looked. It feels like it needs a little something to elevate it a bit, but I'm not sure what. I have some gilt cord, but it is not especially durable and I throw my partlets in the washing machine after wearing. I'll stew on it a bit and see if anything jumps out at me next time I am rummaging through my stash.

Italian Renaissance Costuming Challenge III - Update

The third Italian Renaissance Costuming Challenge: http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/challenges/IRCC2013/IRCC3-2013.htm


This has been a difficult month for me, with recurrent illness and the death of a close family member. I certainly didn't get anywhere near what I expected done, let alone what I would have liked to get done.

My first project this month was to attempt an 'easy' version of a lace partlet similar to the ones that are so common in portraits of Bianca Cappello, one of my sixteenth century style icons.


Bianca Cappello by Allori - from http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a5/Alessandro_Allori_-_Portrait_of_Bianca_Cappello.jpg




Bianca Cappello by Scipione - from http://www.gogmsite.net/the_middle_1500s_-_1550_to_/minialbum_bianca_capello_de/bianca_capello_by_scipione__2.html



 I purchased commercially produced cotton lace of an appropriate size to fit my partlet collar piece. The partlet is cut from cotton fabric. In period, it would probably be made of linen, but financial restraints meant that cotton was the only option available to me.

The body of the partlet has been made up, but it has not yet been entirely hemmed. The lace was tacked to the partlet collar and sewn down around the edges. The lace did not sit neatly on the collar piece, so I have ended up having to sew around all the little holes and bars with tiny stitches. My plan of a 'fast and easy' alternative to needle lace really hasn't worked out to be very fast and easy! I continue to work at securing the collar lace.

My respiratory problems continue, and I quickly realised during my last event that I need a dress that can be worn comfortably with no corset. So, off on a tangent again! I have been working on an early sixteenth century, short-waisted tourney dress prototype that has a lightly boned bodice and can be worn with a bra. I am not confident about how that will look when complete.

The bodice partly tacked up for sewing

A similar style shown in Carpaccio's 'The Betrothal'
image from http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/CarpaccioBetrothed2.jpg

My 'main' dress for the challenge; a pointed bodice Italian that can be worn with a corset has been drafted and cut out. I'll admit that I have hit a bump with the boning. The necessary bones had to be ordered, and with everything else that has been going on, my motivation has flagged a little this month.