Quarterly Hat Challenge

In the last couple of years I have been involved with two challenges that I have found to be great sources of motivation and inspiration. The first was the  Camino del Noble Pilgrimage Challenge, which focused on developing many aspects of one's persona and SCA game. It was a great challenge and I am still focusing on many of the aspects of the challenge because I didn't quite achieve everything that I hoped in the time frame I gave myself (- story of my life!)

The other was the A&S Century challenge, where one does a minimum of ten minutes of work on an aspect of SCA every day for one hundred days. This challenge was much easier for me because I was already in this habit anyway. Because of my health issues, I usually can only work on things for short amounts of time, so very short bursts of input on a regular basis is what works for me. I have to budget my energy to accomplish even small things. The real benefit and challenge to me from the A&S Challenge was getting into the habit of taking project progress photos and writing up (at least basic) notes on projects. This is a habit I could use help in getting back into; I hate the write up after the last stitch is done.

The new challenge for 2018 is the Quarterly Hat Challenge: make one item of headwear every three months. I am hoping that I will be able to achieve this goal. There is no set level of complexity, so at the very least I hope to complete some cauls that I have had cut out for quite a while. I would like to attempt something a little more complex and interesting, but I am not making any promises to myself. Cauls are practical, manageable on high pain days, fun to decorate and easy to store.

Some styles of headwear that I would love to make in the future:

Portrait of Bianca Maria Sforza - Attributed to Giovanni Ambrogio de Predis c. 1493
Image from: https://bjws.blogspot.com.au/2011/12/portraits-of-women-attributed-to.html

Portrait of Isabella of Naples, Duchess of Milan by Giovanni Antonio Boltraffio 
Image from: http://jeannedepompadour.blogspot.com.au/2012/08/house-of-sforza-muzio-attendolo-sforza.html?m=1

Portrait of A Lady  - Attributed to Giovanni Ambrogio de Predis  1490

Image from: https://bjws.blogspot.com.au/2011/12/portraits-of-women-attributed-to.html

Portrait of a Lady in Profile by  Bernardino dei Conti

From: http://www.artnet.com/artists/bernardino-dei-conti/portrait-de-jeune-femme-de-profil-%C3%A0-la-coiffure-0UH8PP-XqNpF-F2FIm_qyg2

Portrait of Bianca Sforza c.1500

Image from: http://jeannedepompadour.blogspot.com.au/2012/08/house-of-sforza-muzio-attendolo-sforza.html?m=1

Portrait of a Lady-- Attributed to Domenico Puligo

Image from: http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/20016/lot/51/

Hemming of Body Linens

Today I am hemming body linens again. My furry helper is ill & this sort of sewing is quite soothing. No idea what day I am at now in the second round of the century challenge.

Sewing the enclosed seam flat.







Tacking down the edge of the partlet prior to pinning the second fold into place. Although it seems like extra work, I do it this way because I have a lot of issues with my hands and it hurts to sew. Any extra, uneccessary fabric manipulation just means unnecessary pain.

Purple Tie-on Italian Sleeves

Last week's realisation that I had lost the sleeves I wanted to wear to LPD prompted a frantic scurry about to find the basket of sleeves I cut out late last year to work on in my "leisure time". Luckily a purple pair was partly done and just needed edge finishing, hemming and eyelets. I got them done in time for the event but also found a couple more pairs that were partly done. So my project for the next few days will be working on those.

Here are the purple pair in-progress and completed. The black satin ribbon had already been sewn on and the seams sewn open. I whipped around the top edge of the sleeve to stop the lining rolling out. Then the purple fabric was hemmed. Then I hemmed the black lining seperately and added the eyelets.

A&S bell stringing

I've been busy with projects for other people in preparation for a big SCA event that is coming up, so no pictures to show until after the event.

A boring but necessary task today: stringing A&S competition award bells for my barony.

A&S Century Challenge - Heraldic Device

Day 105- I think! I finished this device for a friend. It will join the other registered devices on the Device banner. Ground fabric and sword are wool felt which has been whip stitched down and embroidered over. Embroidery is in split, chain and satin stitch.

My SCA Barony records the devices of members on a banner. They are recorded in order of registration under the devices of the Baron and Baroness at the time. It is a lovely way to record the populace, a great hall decoration, and can be used as a prop in a fun 'guess the heraldry' game.

A&S Century Challenge - Secret Scribey Projects

#100DaysofAS
I've been working on projects for other people and doing scribal work, so no photos. I do have a picture of my special helper. :-)

A&S Century Challenge - Embroidery Design

After doing quite a bit of scribal work yesterday, I took a break today by working on some non-counted embroidery designs.

Embroidered Napkin - A&S Century Challenge

I took a break from secret scribal stuff & works for other people and finished off an embroidered cloth. The motif is embroidered in split stitch with two strands of DMC cotton floss.

Update

I haven't posted for a while because I haven't been well. After the pleurisy I developed costochondritis and now I have a chest infection, sinus infection, salivary gland infection and a cold! So I'm not really feeling like doing anything much. I am keeping up with the A&S Century Challenge buy doing my ten minutes minimum a day - mostly working on the huge pile of Unfinished sewing and embroidery objects (UFOs).

Last year a panel in my sewing area flooded quite badly and filled a stash cupboard with dirty water and I didn't realise straight away because it came through an access panel and through the back of the cupboard. Naturally it was the cupboard that had my long-hoarded ''special'' fabrics like silk in it. As you would know by now, my budget for fabric is low so I was absolutely devastated when this happened. I had a beautiful piece of figured silk velvet from Sartor that was a gift from friends that was ruined, and the whole event made me so despondent that it put me off dealing with the issue for a long time. The leak was fixed and fabrics washed, but I never really got things packed away the way they had previously been.

This has been something I have been trying to remedy lately. I can't do much at a time but I have been trying to sort everything out and tidy things up. I still have a pile of washed fabric to iron (a job I hate!) but at least things are looking a bit more tidy. My Sartor silk has lost it's pattern, but I can probably still use it for a pair of (much less dramatic looking sleeves.) Needless to say, I will probably procrastinate about tackling that ironing for quite some time to come!

While tidying and sorting, I found three very old unfinished chemises. They are made up in a Ren-Faire style pattern with fitted sleeves and no gussets and so not ideal (or historically accurate), but they need fairly minimal work to make them wearable. Given my deplorable lack of finished undergarments at the moment, I counted that find as a win. I also found some bits and bobs that I will need for upcoming projects, so I was very happy with that too. Maybe the old saying about hard work being it's own reward is true!

A&S Century Challenge - Simple Smock

Today I finally finished doing the seams on my ex-quilt cover, cheap test-run smock. I cut the neckline a bit wide so had to put in a couple of little pleats (which I would probably do again anyway as it sits nicely & is comfortable).
I ended up sewing the hem on the machine. I will re-do it by hand, but I need to wear it on the weekend and won't get time before then. The second hand quilt cover is nice soft fabric and feels cosy. I'm pleased with how neat the felled seams look, and I will definitely put the time and trouble in to do this again on future garments. I suspect that it will prolong the life of the garment too.

A&S Challenge - Seam Treatments and a New Sash

Lots of seam treatments this week, plus I sewed up a new sash. The sash is a simple (very long) rectangle, hemmed at both ends. I toyed with the idea of adding tassels to this one as it is longer than my others, but I decided that I will get more use out of it as it is. I am not usually a fan of orange (the camera has not reproduced the colour faithfully) but I think it will look good against a black gown. I got the fabric quite cheap at a thrift store, so I am pretty happy with this find. I still have enough for an underskirt or kirtle.

A&S Century Challenge - Seam finishing

Since my last post I have been doing boring (but relaxing) seam finishing. I am still unwell and have even had a day in hospital so this relaxed handsewing suits my energy levels at the moment.
I've also done a little bit of scroll painting.

A&S Century Challenge - Seam Treatments

More hemming & seam treatments today.
I used to hate this sort of work, but now I really like it & find it relaxing.
Which is probably great, because I think I have about a million more hours worth to go.

A&S Century Challenge - Hand finishing smocks

Two smock drafts (slightly different styles) cut out and partly sewn by machine. I need to find the time to hand finish them, so that will probably keep me busy (at least) for the next several days. Illness is making me slow and sluggish at the moment.

A&S Century Challenge - Budget Sixteenth Century Undergarments

I'm still sick, so everything lately has been extra challenging.

On Saturday I went to a scribes meeting and learnt about gilding manuscripts and made a start on a new scroll.

I had an inspiring & productive A&S/training on Sunday, and came home feeling exhausted (but motivated). Lots of follow up stuff to do after that one, including paperwork.

Yesterday I faffed around adapting patterns for a little while; a task I always find challenging.

Today I grabbed a couple of minutes to cut out a test run fitted smock from an old cotton quilt cover. I have always made Italian style camicias, but sometimes they can be a little bulky for more fitted styles of late period clothing. I'm always nervous when cutting fabric, but I'm not worried today because I got this quilt cover at the op shop for $3. I should get 2 undergarments from it.

I'm looking at making a modified version of (g) - smock with simple hemmed neck and sleeve.
Image from The Tudor Tailor, reproduced at https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/a6/9f/58/a69f582207ca2d77815540ae11de6988.jpg

A&S Century Challenge - Purple Sash

A quick & easy project for today; I whipped up a new purple sash (which for some reason looks blue in the photos). It is just a long rectangular tube hemmed at the ends, very handy for changing the look of an outfit.

This type of sash goes well with the style of Italian clothing that I like to wear.

Portrait of A Woman with a Book of Music by Bacchiacca
Image from: http://www.getty.edu/art/collection/objects/668/bacchiacca-francesco-ubertini-portrait-of-a-woman-with-a-book-of-music-italian-about-1540-1545/

A&S Century Challenge - Embroidery and Trim Sewing

Today I sewed down another edge on one of the ribbons that will decorate the sleeve of my next chemise. I also found a mostly embroidered chemise sleeve, and did a little bit of work on that.
I hope to get time later on to do some illumination. My energy is very slowly starting to return as the pleurisy improves.

A&S Century Challenge - Gold sleeves

This challenge has been a wonderful motivator to plod along and do those little jobs that are not exciting & that are easy to put off.
Today I'm spending some time on a pair of sleeves. I usually zigzag stitch the edges, but I am trying out pinking the edges with shears. I am stab stitching the seams open.

Cotton Chemise- A&S Century Challenge

I spent my time today sewing some ribbon onto the sleeves of a cotton chemise. I couldn't do much as my hands are very painful at the moment.

A&S Challenge - Viking Clothing Class

On Sunday I went to an information session on Viking clothing & accessories. I also had the opportunity to do a small amount of embroidery.