Navy and Purple Tourney Dress Diary- IRCC5

May has been a busy month for me. I decided to use thie Italian renaissance Costuming Challenge (http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/challenges/IRCC2015/IRCC5-2015-Entrants.htm)  as an opportunity to try new techniques and experiment a little. This month I worked on a new tourney dress. I decided to try a front lacing dress with a large gap, and also to make it without boning. This was a big step for me, as I really like the support and smooth lines that boning gives.

My inspiration was this style of dress as painted by Ghirlandaio:

image from- https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1cfPPTc544n1nQg5N58H1s9jeSDSnAO79pSZSk_DH5YdCgSC3xO5UbZXq1M5jOBt-nFPJA22oAJEZX3hh613Wo-rJ93zcSG0pi6ZnRmMyiW-gZMsVTx27UglPqnfmwQE3kXsSctEFG5Jr/s640/w+Domenico+Ghirlandaio+(Italian+artist,+1449%E2%80%931494)+Ludovica+Tornabuoni+(2).jpg
I looked at many variations on this style and decided not to copy any particular one specifically. There are a wide range of bodice shapes, sleeve styles, lacing options, and trim designs seen in this period.


Portrait of Giovann Tornabuoni by Ghirlandaio
Image from: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3b/Ghirlandaio-Giovanna_Tornabuoni_cropped.jpg


Detail from Birth of St John the Baptist by Ghirlandaio
Image from: http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tornabuoni



Zaccharias Writes Down The Name of His Son by Ghirlandaio
Image from: https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_CC-VZcpuD6gHsd8TJyFBhem2XH7xawzSpDtkJPCP-AaT-a-dKwFi9pYpdexGxcabmtEEq7bU5TvXiRaaVzmEtzm3IXjcqtsFRiHjTP7CUCBfv0vXC6PTms15jV2D7BIlWY-wXSV7PRCY/s1600/w+Domenico+Ghirlandaio+(Italian+artist,+1449%E2%80%931494)+Zacharias+Writes+Down+the+Name+of+his+Son+Ghirlandaio+Tornabuoni+Chapel.jpg


Birth of the Virgin (detail) by Ghirlandaio
Image from: http://www.poderesantapia.com/images/art/ghirlandaio/tornabuonibirth2600.jpg



I adapted an existing bodice pattern to make the neckline higher and more rounded. I cut my cotton fabric, lining and two interlinings and zigzagged all the edges. Then I sewed all the pieces together so I had an outer layer, two lining layers and an inner layer. I stab stitched all the seams open but did the rest on the machine to save time. Then I sewed the bodice layers together inside out, clipped the seams, and turned it all the right way out. I hand sewed the neckline the bodice and armholes closed.

(I have used this technique successfully in the past with boned bodices; I think that the plastic hoop boning that I like to use for bodices gives a thickness to the bodice and hides any bulk. I would not use this technique again for an unlined bodice because there is no hiding the bulk of all the seam allowances around the seam lines.)

Here you can see the bulky seam allowances showing through

I had a lot of fun playing with trim options:

 
  

But in the end, I sewed a line of purple gimp braid along the neckline edge for decoration.

I added brass lacing rings along the front of the bodice just to try a new option. I was a bit worried about using lacing rings on this bodice because I was worried that the rings might pull away from the fabric. I have worn the dress with a lightly boned pair of bodies, and it was fine. I just need to remember not to ''yank'' on the lacing in the way that I might do with a bodice that has lacing holes reinforced by boning. I think I do still prefer lacing holes though.

I added some lucet cord ties around the shoulder so that sleeves could be tied on. Thank you to Heather for making the cords for me.

I cartridge pleated the skirt onto the bottom of the bodice. I usually use 5mm pleats; this time I marked out 1cm pleats. My skirt was made of three equal rectangles of fabric joined together and finished at the top. I then turned the finished edge over to hide the machine sewing. Then I marked out a line of dots 1cm apart and went joined them up with a thick thread. Usually I use two parallel lines of quadrupled sewing thread to make my pleats. This time I tried out a short cut by using one piece of crochet cotton. It worked a treat and saved a lot of time, but I may just have been very, very lucky that the thread didn't break and cause me to have to start over again. I probably would go back to using a double row of threads next time, just to be on the safe side. Having said that, I managed to get the whole skirt marked out and pleated on in an evening, as opposed to the whole day that it usually takes me. I whip stitched through the centre of each pleat with a quadrupled strong thread to anchor the skirt to the bodice. I left a small split at the middle front of the skirt to make it easier to put on and take off.

After my trusty helper pinned my hem up for me (thank you Sharyn!),  I trimmed it and sewed it into place by hand.

 I added hooks and eyes at the front skirt split, but actually ended up just pinning the front into place when I wore the dress because it meant that I could adjust the lacing tighter or more loosely depending on  how I felt on the day.

 I am considering whether to add a line of purple ribbon around the bottom edge of the dress skirt.

The gown is not completely finished, and I am not completely satisfied with it, but it is wearable, and I am glad that I have tried a few new techniques.

Purple Tourney Dress

I needed a new tourney dress, and wanted one that I could wear without a corset. (My health problems mean that often I can't wear very restrictive garments like a corset, and sometimes one just needs to be able to do more than a corset allows.) I decided that a short-waisted Italian style like those popular around 1500 would be ideal.

'The Betrothal' by an Unknown Artist c. 1490
from: http://www.oceansbridge.com/oil-paintings/product/93934/dieverlobungenglishtitlethebetrothal


'The meeting of the betrothed couple' by Carpaccio c. 1495
from: http://www.oceansbridge.com/oil-paintings/product/54796/carpacciomeetingofthebetrothedcoupleandthedeparture


'Portrait of a Venetian Lady' in the style of Albrecht Durer
from: http://www.artnet.com/magazineus/features/jeromack/velazquez-rediscovered12-16-09_detail.asp?picnum=8


Detail of "The Legend of St Ursula' by Carpaccio, 1495-1500
from: http://tomclarkblog.blogspot.com.au/2013/01/john-ruskin-on-carpaccios-dream-of-st.html


Drawing of a Venetian Lady by Albrecht Durer 1495
from: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/16thital/durer-vene1495-1.jpg


I had some purple drill that would be ideal for the project. I adapted one of my existing Italian patterns, reducing the length and making it front-lacing for ease of dressing. I usually wear a pair of boned bodies under my gowns, but for this one I decided to bone the gown bodice itself.

I used a cotton canvas interlining and a new type of plastic heavy duty boning that I have not tried before. I machined casings in the interlining fabric and used fourteen plastic bones. The top edge was machine stitched, but I did the rest by hand.

I added a black feature panel at the front of the gown and edged it with black bias tape and hand dyed brown ric rac braid. I did a running stitch along the bias in a matching brown embroidery floss, and added detached button hole stitch ovals between the peaks of the ric rac braid. (I opted not to use the additional purple braid shown in the picture above.)

The skirt was pleated on and secured with a line of machine stitching for extra strength (as I have a habit of stepping on my skirts when carrying tourney furniture to the car.) I tacked the bodice together before hanging the gown up for the hem to drop. After it had hung for a few weeks, I secured the bottom edge of the bodice with hand stitching.

The next step was to add eyelets for lacing and lucet some cord to lace with. I added some hooks and eyes and a modesty placket. I finished the embroidery on the skirt trim and whip stitched the front edge closed. 

The skirt has a much smaller hem than usual. I will probably add a hem guard in the future for extra durability. I am also working on a set of tie-on sleeves.

The gown is very comfortable and easy to move in. I will post photos when it is totally finished.

Blue dress update

Not much has been happening on any of my projects due to being away and also health problems. The sleeves are a little closer to completion, but not much!

Blue dress update

The blue dress is getting very close to completion. I have been playing with different sizes and colours of pearls to see how they will look along the front edge of the bodice, and working on the sleeves.

Testing how pearls will look along the front edge of the bodice.

Progress Update

Today I worked on the sleeves for the blue dress, and also started tackling the skirt pleating.

I had hoped to start my project for the ICC Mini-Challenge, but didn't get time. The fabric is washed and pressed, and approved by my furry helper.....

and I have worked on a handful of test panels to pick which design will work best. Now I need to mark my design out and start embroidering.

Blue dress update

Here is what I have been up to over the last few days with the blue dress...

Overstitching the edges for extra strength. There is a layer of 'fashion fabric' (cotton), an interlining of strong calico and a lining of cotton duck.

The layers of the bodice tacked and  ready to be pinned and hand stitched together.

A completed edge showing stab and whip stitching.

Preparing to mark out the gold broadcloth to make bias trim (with my furry helper!)

The skirt panels are cut and waiting to be sewn. I still need to decide on what style of pleating; I am thinking knife pleats.