Red Velveteen Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves

Sleeves again this week, and boy! am I happy with these! So rich and soft - I love them. I got the velveteen before the quality of cotton velveteen being offered by my local Spotlight dropped, and the fabric is lush.

These were created in the same way as previous iterations: the pattern is my roomy, self-drafted pattern that is super comfortable and very wearable. The centre back seam of velveteen and stash fabric lining was machine sewn and hand felled. Then the pieces were put together, wrong way around, and machine sewn. The arc at the top of the sleeve was clipped, and then the sleeve turned right way out ("bagged out"). I generally choose to do a small whip stitch around the top of the sleeve to stop the lining rolling out with wear, and I did that with these. I usually embroider an 'L' on the left sleeve lining before hemming also, just to help with speedier dressing on those days when I am in a rush or brain foggy.

I hemmed the outer sleeve first, anchoring it with small stab stitches. Then I hemmed the lining; turning the lining under quite a bit more so that it won't show when I move my arms.

The final step is to slog through one of my hated jobs - eyelets. I am getting faster at them, but they are very hard on my sore hands. I generally use 4 strands of waxed sewing thread, and use an awl to make a hole. I then do a double running stitch around the hole and then cover the edges with what is essentially a satin stitch.

I am super happy with this pair of sleeves; they feel so wonderful to touch.

Purple Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves

I'm still working on the UFO pile, and this week's completed item is a pair of Italian style tie-on sleeves in linen. 

They are lined in black cotton remnants, with hand worked eyelets. I had to ease in the linen on one of the sleeves, which has led to a small amount of wrinkling around the wrist on one of the sleeves. Hopefully it will settle with wear, or at least not be noticeable, because I don't feel inspired to unpick the sleeve and lining hem and re-sew the inner seam of the lining (especially since the inner seams on sleeve and linings are felled).

 

May Day Challenge - Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves #3 (Purple)

 Last year Duchess Constanzia Moralez of Lochac set a Challenge to all those interested -The May Day Challenge (a personal challenge on 'how to improve your SCA in any way by May Day, AS LVII'). 

Image credit: R. Vess

My Challenge was to work on that UnFinished Object pile and get some items finished. My friend won Crown during the Challenge, and so some of my energy was diverted into helping create garb for Them and Their Household, but I did manage to get some items finished before the Challenge ended.

This pair of sleeves had been languishing in the UFO pile, cut out but unsewn. I machine sewed the centre back seam on the lining and outer fabrics, and stab stitched the seams open. Then the sleeves were joined at the shoulder seam and the lining and outer parts were hemmed individually. I then whip stitched around the top of each sleeve to prevent any movement in the lining, and worked five eyelets at the top of each sleeve.

These sleeves look blue in the picture but are actually purple.

May Day Challenge - Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves #2 (White with gold trim)

 Last year Duchess Constanzia Moralez of Lochac set a Challenge to all those interested -The May Day Challenge (a personal challenge on 'how to improve your SCA in any way by May Day, AS LVII'). 

Image credit: R. Vess

My Challenge was to work on that UnFinished Object pile and get some items finished. My friend won Crown during the Challenge, and so some of my energy was diverted into helping create garb for Them and Their Household, but I did manage to get some items finished before the Challenge ended.

Second is another pair of sleeves that just needed two more eyelets added on each sleeve and the top edge whip- stitched to be wearable.

May Day Challenge - Italian Style Tie-on Sleeves #1 (Cream damask)

Last year Duchess Constanzia Moralez of Lochac set a Challenge to all those interested -The May Day Challenge (a personal challenge on how to improve your SCA in any way by May Day, AS LVII). 

Image credit: R. Vess

My Challenge was to work on that UnFinished Object pile and get some items finished. My friend won Crown during the Challenge, and so some of my energy was diverted into helping create garb for Them and Their Household, but I did manage to get some items finished before the Challenge ended.

First up is a pair of sleeves that just needed two more eyelets added on each sleeve. (An easy task to put off, because I hate doing eyelets!)

Sleeves - Italian Style Green Gown for a Young Woman

These are the sleeves that I made to go with the green Italian style gown that I did an earlier progress post on. 

The sleeve pattern is not in the traditional 16th Century style (with the seam running down the outside back seam), but rather a modern style sleeve with the seam underneath. This is because the patterns for  the bodice and sleeves were 'guess-timations' as the wearer was not available to be fitted.

The plain pair is self -lined, and the pair with hand-sewn trim have a light calico lining because the trim adds quite a lot of stiffness. The sleeves tie on with ribbons through hand-sewn eyelets. I fell my seams by hand to keep everything nice and flat, and I prefer to sew the sleeve hem and lining hem separately so that I can offset the lining to prevent it rolling out if the sleeve stretches a bit with wear.

 

Green Linen Tie-On Sleeves In The Italian Style

 Are you getting bored with sleeves yet?!

I recently finished another pair, this time in a pretty green linen.

They are constructed in the same way as the rest. I cut out my favourite roomy sleeve pattern in the lining and fashion fabrics and edged them with zigzag stitch on the  machine. The seams were sewn on machine with straight stitch and opened out and stitched down. 

I sewed the green linen fashion fabric and lining together at the sleeve head (wrong sides out), and clipped the curves to reduce bulk before turning the right way out. 

I hand stitched around the top of the sleeve to stop the lining rolling out. 

I sewed the wrist hem by hand and then whipped the lining in with another row of stitching. This seems like extra work,  but if the lining ever stretches, it means I can re-hem it without affecting the hem on the green fashion fabric.

I worked eyelets around the top of the sleeve for tying on and then put my trusty 'L' on the inside of the left sleeve.

Khaki Tie-On Sleeves in the Italian Style

 Another pair of sleeves finished!

These are made out of a cotton fabric remnant that I found in an op (thrift) shop.

They are constructed in the same way as all the others; the lining and fashion fabrics were cut out using my favourite sleeve pattern and edged with zigzag stitch. The seams were sewn on machine with straight stitch and opened out and stitched down. Then the fashion fabric and lining were sewn together at the sleeve head (wrong sides out), curves clipped and then turned right way out. The top of the sleeve was top stitched by hand to stop the lining rolling out. The wrist hem was sewn by hand and the lining whipped into place. Eyelets were worked by hand at the top of the sleeve and an 'L' was sewn into the left sleeve to make lacing the sleeves on in a hurry easier.

Red-Gilt Tie On Sleeve in the Italian Renaissance Style

I finished another pair of sleeves this week, and boy! are they pretty. The fabric was purchased from etsy several years ago. A miscellaneous fibre content includes gilt threads. They were sold as silk brocade but I would be very surprised if they actually contain silk.

I'm very pleased with these sleeves. Eyelets are still very hard on my hands but I am getting faster at working them.

I made these sleeves to the same pattern and in the same way as the others I have blogged about recently. The lining is purple broadcloth.

Putting a small running stitch along the inside of the top edge to stop the lining rolling out with wear.

Hemming the sleeves. I sewed down the fashion fabric hem with tiny stitches, and then hemmed the lining separately.

Working the eyelets. (I've added an L for Left to save time getting ready before events.)

The finished product. The pictures fail to capture the richness of the fabric.

Red Tie-On Sleeves in the Italian Style

I finished another pair of sleeves this week. The majority of the sewing had been completed and it was just -you guessed it - eyelets needing to be done. On a positive note; I am getting faster at eyelets now, and hating them slightly less. (Good thing too, as no doubt have hundreds in my future!)

These sleeves were constructed in the same way as the others listed previously. I'm not sure what the fabric content is but they certainly have some metallic threads in them. They have a bit of a shine as the light moves over them. They are not a bright red, but are brighter in real life than the brown-red shade that they look like in the final pictures.

Whip stitching the lining wrist hem into place.

My trusty 'helper'

Pale Blue Tie-on Sleeves in the Italian Style

Another pair of sleeves complete and out of the UFO pile! This pair is made from a light blue brocade type fabric that I found in a remnant bin at a thrift store and is based on the Italian tie-on style.

The camera has was washed the colour out a bit:

The sleeves were created in the same way as outlined in my previous post. 

As usual, the eyelets were what was holding me up.

I've embroidered an 'L' on the left sleeve because I always seem to be in a rush when it is time for events, and nothing wastes more time or adds more stress than struggling into a big dress only to find out you laced your sleeves on wrong - and then have to struggle back out of it, unlace them and then re-lace them on the correct sleeves. Ask me how I know, haha.

Italian Tie-On Sleeves Made From A Thrifted Green Sari Skirt

I finished a pair of sleeves that was sitting in my UnFinished Objects pile.

This pair has not been waiting to be finished as long as some others in the pile. (I only started them in 2021.) I picked up a pretty skirt made out of sari fabric at an op shop and thought it would made a nice pair of sleeves. The skirt was child size so there was some careful unpicking and placing to be done. 

I used my trusty pattern which makes a roomy and comfortable sleeve. Placement was key to try and get best use from the fabric and make sure the motifs were all going in the same direction.

Luckily, I have a great helper!

Edges were zigzag stitched on the machine and the seams ironed open and tacked down. Linings were given the same treatment.

The sleeve and lining was sewn wrong side out then I clipped the corners and turned the right sides out.

I whip stitched around the top of the sleeve head to stop the lining pulling to the outside over time as a bit of pressure is put on the sleeve head from the lacing.

I turned the hem under at the wrist and secured it with tiny stab stitches.

Then I folded the lining hem under and hand sewed it in place.

Finally, I added five eyelet holes at the top of each sleeve so it can be tied into place.

The finished sleeves. I am pleased with how these turned out. I only *just* had enough fabric to get sleeves out of the skirt. The gilt thread in the motif makes the sleeves look quite opulent. I don't expect that they will be the most durable sleeves ever, but they sure are pretty.

Mending and Adjustments

 Hello friends! I hope this new year is finding you safe and well. 

I haven't posted in a while because my illness(es) flared up over Christmas and I have had a hard time getting back to normal. I have not been doing much of craft-related interest except for mending and alterations, and working on the Perpetual Pile of Sleeves. 

As you would probably know by know, I loathe a sewing do-over, and that is exactly what mending (and associated activities) feels like, so it is very easy to put the chore off and do more exciting projects. So I have been working to whittle down the list of things waiting to be fixed or adjusted - with varying degrees of success. It does seem like a Magic Pudding type situation, but I am plodding along.

Adjusting a slip

(For those of you who are not familiar, The Magic Pudding is an Australian children's book about - you guessed it - a magic pudding that you cut a piece from and it magically restores itself. Apparently much like my sewing to-do pile.)

The characters from The Magic Pudding. (Image from: https://www.sl.nsw.gov.au/exhibitions/magic-pudding-celebrating-100-years)

The Perpetual Pile of Sleeves is starting to look more manageable, as I have just kept at it; a little bit every day. 

Predictably, I have left all the eyelets til the end.