Renaissance Tourney Dress- Cartridge Pleated Skirt

I had a small win this week and finally got the skirt cartridge pleated onto the bodice that I started last November. The dress needs a few tweaks, hemming and a set of sleeves, but I can see light at the end of the tunnel and will get this one finished in time as part of my Franchise/Prowess challenge for the Noble Pilgrimage.

I have been slogging along working on so many things and feeling quite disheartened about being sick and getting things finished in time for the challenge, so this is a big win for the week.

The dress is loosely based on Vincenzo Campi's portrait of The Fishmongers, so I will be making a set of red sleeves (and hopefully later down the track, that delightful partlet.)

Image from: http://www.wga.hu/art/c/campi/vincenzo/4fishmon.jpg

A delightful shopping trip!

I had a fun trip into my favourite costuming/cosplay shop today. I got to see the new premises and check out the new stock, as well as pick up some bargains!

It really is a one-stop shop for trims, notions, habby and embroidery threads. I got some hardware to bling up my new balzo, a chain, some ribbons, buttons, and lots of wool threads, so I am very happy.

If you are in Adelaide, pop in!

Koala Time

I saw this fellow in my tree tonight when I got home, not sure if it is the same one as last time? I think this is the big one. My last post showed a smaller individual.

Australian Cockatoo in Mategna 1496 painting

'Old' news, but fascinating stuff nonetheless.

The appearance of a cockatoo in a 15th century Italian Renaissance painting has led historians to reconsider what they know of early trading routes to Europe.
Upon close inspection of Andrea Mantegna's 1496 painting Madonna della Vittoria, which hangs in the Louvre, a sulphur-crested cockatoo can be seen in pride of place above the cross.


Read more: http://www.theage.com.au/victoria/mystery-of-the-cockatoo-in-a-15th-century-italian-painting-20140319-352oo.html#ixzz469TmaEyZ
Follow us: @theage on Twitter | theageAustralia on Facebook
http://www.theage.com.au/victoria/mystery-of-the-cockatoo-in-a-15th-century-italian-painting-20140319-352oo.html




Madonna della Vittoria by Andrea Mantegna
Image from: http://www.theage.com.au/content/dam/images/3/5/2/p/m/image.related.articleLeadNarrow.300x0.352oo.png/1395240896117.jpg



You might remember this one as well:


Image from: http://www.theage.com.au/entertainment/books/16thcentury-manuscript-could-rewrite-australian-history-20140115-30vak.html

"The document, acquired by Les Enluminures Gallery in New York, shows a sketch of an apparent kangaroo (''canguru'' in Portuguese) nestled in its text and is dated between 1580 and 1620. It has led researchers to believe images of the marsupial were already being circulated by the time the Dutch ship Duyfken - long thought to have been the first European vessel to visit Australia - landed in 1606."

Read more: http://www.theage.com.au/entertainment/books/16thcentury-manuscript-could-rewrite-australian-history-20140115-30vak.html#ixzz469UL1CS8
Follow us: @theage on Twitter | theageAustralia on Facebook

''Lost" Caravaggio?

A painting that may be by the Italian master Caravaggio and worth £94m ($135m) has been found in the loft of a house in southern France.
Article: http://www.bbc.com/news/entertainment-arts-36024865






Image from: http://www.bbc.com/news/entertainment-arts-36024865

Striped Dresses in the Renaissance - Research Notes

I love stripey dresses, so I decided to collate some references from the SCA period to inspire me to cut into my stripey stash!

 Detail from ''The Finding of Moses'' - Bonifacio Veronese
Image from: http://www.wga.hu/html_m/b/bonifaci/

 Portrait of a Lady with a Boy - Paris Bordone
Image from: http://www.myartprints.com/a/bordone-paris/portrait-of-a-lady-with-a-14.html





 Portrait of Noblewoman and Son - Bartolomeo Passarotti
Image from: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/61/Bartolomeo_passarotti,_ritratto_di_nobildonna_col_figlio.JPG






Portrait of a Venetian Noblewoman at the age of 18 - Giovanni Antonio Fasolo
Image from: http://starlightmasquerade.com/PortraitGallery/Closed-Bodice-Venetian/inspiration-pages/closedbodice52a.htm






Portrait of the Women of the Giusti del Giardino family - Girolamo Forni
Image from: http://bjws.blogspot.com.au/2016_02_04_archive.html






Self Portrait - Marietta Robusti  c. 1580
Image from : http://www.wikiart.org/en/marietta-robusti/self-portrait-1580?utm_source=returned&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=referral







Porrait of a Lady with a Dog - Paolo Caliari (Veronese)
Image from: https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmmV50GzVZbSS_a-BdmRaRzWX183-Bph7tKmAE-BPWgVvdxJyx1NbzBzwbIl6HawD4W1NZ4TEj5FGYPCDoVd1-apVPMJmR_EJFzYhf4Qx5YL97aIpsRAIClBG9pVBfjEiX5Xh3p8tM-dN4/s1600/Portrait-of-a-LadyPaolo+Veronese1560-70.jpg





Paola Gualdo And Daughters Laura and Virginia- Giovanni Antonio Fasolo
Image from: https://au.pinterest.com/pin/538883911640923357/


and detail:

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/c8/b0/ef/c8b0ef5ad5f769f462767bb70db5d757.jpg









Portrait of Caterina di Ferdinando I de' Medici - Tiberio di Tito
Image from: http://www.wga.hu/support/viewer_m/z.html







Portrait of the artists sisters and brother - Sofonisba Anguissola
Image from: http://www.artexpertswebsite.com/pages/artists/anguissola.php







Portrait of  Cardinal Granvelle's Dwarf - Antonis Mor
Image from: http://www.artinconnu.com/2009/05/antonis-mor-anthonis-mor-van-dashorst_07.html






Portrait of a Knight of Calatrava - Frans Pourbus the Elder
Image from: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Knight_of_Calatrava_by_F._Pourbus_the_Elder.jpeg




 Portrait of a Man in Armor with Two Pages (Detail) - Paris Bordone
Image from: http://the-earth-is-flat.blogspot.com.au/p/we-were-there-stripes.html







Portrait of a Boy with Fruit - Mirabello Cavalori
Image from: http://the-earth-is-flat.blogspot.com.au/p/we-were-there-stripes.html





Giovanni Battista Moroni
Image from: http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/yourgarb/2009/Christy-children.jpg





The Daughters of Giovanni II Bentivoglio and Ginevra Sforza - Lorenzo Costa
Image from: http://thescarletlibrarian.tumblr.com/post/141801959572/how-would-you-rate-the-borgias-costumes-as-far-as




Detail of Madonna in Trono e Santi - Jacopo Bassano
Image from: https://au.pinterest.com/desamona/history-1560-s/




Invitation to the Dance - Giovanni Antonio Fasolo
Image from: http://www.gettyimages.com.au/detail/news-photo/invitation-to-the-dance-by-giovanni-antonio-fasolo-fresco-news-photo/154715850



Portrait of a Girl', 16th or early 17th century. Found in the collection of the Regional A Deineka Art Gallery, Kursk, Russia. 
Image from: https://au.pinterest.com/pin/66639269461585875/

Another new arrival

We have another new arrival in the street.

I think love might be in the air!

Noble Pilgrimage - March Update

Image source: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/18/68/76/1868768714c3b35664390e1e7d2b6f34.jpg


Time for an update on how the Pilgrimage challenge has been going this month.....

I have been sick again, and there has been lots of plodding along and not much being actually finished (again). With time ticking away, I have been pretty stressed about getting it all done in time. I am trying to work on the way that I am thinking about it all so that I am less stressed. I think I can see a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel.
I am getting better at being assertive and turning down projects that I can't realistically manage (although I still hate to disappoint people.)


Prowess:

* Learn a new skill - basic leather work
I have been using my cutlery bag, and  I have cut out a bag to hold scrolls in, but have not yet had time to sew it up.


* Improve my illumination skills - practicing with new designs, painting scroll blanks and developing confidence by "doodling" . Another scroll illuminated this month. I have also created an ongoing online challenge for my local group to get people excited about scribal work and allow them to experiment and develop their skills in a no-pressure situation. Also part way through a new, original scroll.


* Develop my sewing skills
Plodding along with bodices, fencing doublets, sleeves and jerkins.I am making a chemise for a friend and copying someone else's work, which expands your skill set.


* Develop my embroidery skills
New chemise project for a friend underway, it involves hand hemming, embroidery and a first attempt at insertion stitch.


* Enter more A&S competitions
No events at the moment with everyone preparing for and leaving for Festival. I have entered quite a few since this challenge started, and I now feel that I have the confidence to make it a regular thing.

* Try and blog more regularly
A little variable at the moment because I prefer to show the finished item and not much is getting finished yet.


Franchise:

* Make badge banner and pole for outside events
- delayed as hot weather was making my silk paint set blotchily, banner is half done.
* Make a new hall banner
- completed this month

* Make a new bottle cover, napkin and cutlery pouch
- cutlery pouch complete
- another napkin complete this month, 1 more underway.


* New tourney dress
- begun
* New feast dress
- skirt panels cut and hanging. Bodice and interlinings cut and ready to sew
* Make more accessories
Several sets of sleeves cut and ready to sew - if I don't run out of time and energy before the project ends. This challenge is taking a lot out of me.

* Work on cutting out slang and mundane talk. Trying hard, but this will be a continual process.
* Try harder to speak nobly. Trying hard, but this will be a continual process.
* Read ''The Bard's English'' - completed
* Work on moving more gracefully, and work on posture
* **Continue with existing projects and commitments - ongoing.  Working on WCoB presentation piece and on tablecloth project, embroidered chemise for a friend, doublet for a friend. Continuing to help with projects and teach. Continuing to administer LCG and organise records.

This month I have been particularly heartened by the work of the two gentles that I have been teaching to sew for the last eighteen months. They are both coming ahead in leaps and bounds and are trying new techniques and patterning with confidence (and looking great in their new garb.)

Piety

* Continue teaching classes ongoing
* Continue with regular service projects: device banner, mouse pouches, award cords, Baronial projects, scribe work etc. (Ongoing)
* Run an event (not sure if I will be able to do this prior to July as the event schedule is very full. May have to hold it later in the year, especially as we have had some events postponed due to hot weather.)
* Make Primus Agmen award pouches
* Learn the duties of a Lady in Waiting
I recently stepped up as Lady in Waiting to my Baroness. What a huge step. )I didn't actually die from terror or fall over in court [YET] so I think that is a very promising start!)
* Help people with individual projects
- embroidery project for a friend: complete
- jerkin for a friend- complete
-fencing doublet - almost done

Largesse

* Continue teaching garb skills - ongoing
* Make more effort to chat to newcomers at events and training. Trying hard. I even attended a demo this month and had to talk to lots of High School students!
* Try harder to make people feel relaxed, welcome and comfortable
Keeping an eye on newcomers and staying in touch electronically so that they know what to bring to events etc. I feel quite proud of myself for this as it is particularly and continually difficult.
* Donate coffee and cake money to charity at least twice a month
- still making regular donations
* Make largesse items for Gift Box
- still making jewelery




Prudence 

* Re-read "Knowne World Handbook"
* Read The Treasure of the City of Ladies - complete. There were some real gems in this book and it gave me a lot to think about. Well worth sticking it out.
*  Re-read A&S Handbook - done
* Read "At The Court of The Borgia" by Johann Burchard - underway
* Try to learn more about combat
- trying to learn more about rapier and heavy by chatting to fighters and paying more at training, reading social media posts and internet information on this area. Ongoing.

I really feel that I have made big improvements in this area this month. All the information is starting to sink in, and I think that it will help me to improve my game.


Courtesy

* Work on shyness and awkwardness - this will be an ongoing consideration, I think.
* Make an effort to speak to people I don't know/well
* Introduce myself to strangers: working on this
* Learn to accept compliments graciously
* Learn to ask for help: I have done this a few times in the last month
* Stop avoiding Peers and Pointy Hats: improving
* Write more recommendations for worthy individuals - ongoing
* Write a resume of SCA achievements to help develop confidence within the game
-  done! This started off  slowly and was difficult, but actually turned out to be a pleasant exercise because I decided to add in dates of events and so the resume has also become a sort of timeline. Working on it has been a nice trip down Memory Lane and has reminded me how much my game has improved over the last fifteen years. I would recommend this exercise!

Although this area is probably going to be an ongoing challenge for me, I really feel that I have made big improvements in this area this month. What I have learned and achieved so far has really made this Pilgrimage worthwhile.

I am starting to see and feel big improvements in all areas, and I can feel that my attitude to the game is changing. I am handling the challenges better as well. My biggest problem is running out of time to finish all the projects that are for other people before our local big event in June 2016.

Happy Easter

Happy Easter (or whatever holiday you celebrate at this time of year) to all my readers!

Enjoying the Struggle, I mean 'Journey'

I've been struggling lately with the amount of sewing and embroidery that I have to do before June. (A bout of gastro and a viral chest infection haven't helped either.) This week I am starting to - barely - see the light at the end of the tunnel. I saw this meme on Facebook and I thought it was a timely reminder that I should probably work on my attitude to sewing.

I really don't enjoy sewing, and I spend an awful amount of time doing it. So perhaps it is time to change my mindset?!

Look Who's Back!

Long-time readers may remember this little guy from previous years. He walked across the road behind my car last night on the way home.

Heat Wave (again)

Although it is technically Autumn, we are having a heat wave again where I live. I put some projects on hold temporarily to hand hem some linen to use as a palla to wear with my Roman garb.

Although I don't generally enjoy sewing, I find that I do enjoy plain hemming. The continuity of it is strangely meditative.

Noble Pilgrimage - February Update

Image source: http://media.web.britannica.com/eb-media/14/125114-004-95588444.jpg


Time for an update on how the Pilgrimage challenge has been going.
It has been a busy month. I have been sick, and there has been lots of plodding along and not much being actually finished. These sorts of months can be discouraging and I try to remember that soon I will get to a stage where, with just a little bit more effort (and better health), I will start seeing a lot of things successfully completed.

I have also had two garbed events recently; it has been nice to get back into the swing of regular SCA events again.

I have had to let people know that I can't accept any new projects prior to July 2016, because I have too much on my plate now and I am starting to feel quite stressed, especially after losing so much time to illness.


Prowess:

* Learn a new skill - basic leather work
Last month I completed my cutlery bag for feasts. I have cut out a bag to hold scrolls in, but have not yet had time to sew it up.


* Improve my illumination skills - practicing with new designs, painting scroll blanks and developing confidence by "doodling" . I have also completed another AoA blank (illumination only) and have almost completed the next couple of assignments.


* Develop my sewing skills
I am trying new ways of bodice construction and have started a couple of new bodices in different sewing styles. I am also learning more about men's clothing and am making a doublet for a new fencer in our group. Very challenging!


* Develop my embroidery skills
New chemise project for a friend underway, it involves hand hemming, embroidery and a first attempt at insertion stitch.


* Enter more A&S competitions
Siege warfare research and recipe redactions were submitted and well received. This area may have to take a back seat from now on as I have many things for other people to complete and which will take priority over my own interests and projects.

* Try and blog more regularly


Franchise:

* Make badge banner and pole for outside events
- underway
* Make a new hall banner
- underway

* Make a new bottle cover, napkin and cutlery pouch
- cutlery pouch complete
- one napkin complete, 2 more underway.


* New tourney dress
- begun
* New feast dress
-planning complete and materials assembled. Pattern needs to be adapted. I won't start this project until I am more up to date with my other projects, especially items for other people. They take priority.
* Make more accessories
Some sleeves and new headwear- hopefully- if I don't run out of time and energy before the project ends. This challenge is taking a lot out of me.

* Work on cutting out slang and mundane talk
* Try harder to speak nobly
* Read ''The Bard's English'' - completed
* Work on moving more gracefully, and work on posture
* **Continue with existing projects and commitments - ongoing. Completed a scroll personalisation, illumination on 3 AoA scrolls, embroidered napkin for a friend, WCoB presentation piece, finished a banner device, working on tablecloth project, continuing to help with projects and teach.
Completed this month:

Piety

* Continue teaching classes
* Continue with regular service projects: device banner, mouse pouches, award cords, Baronial projects, scribe work etc.
* Run an event (not sure if I will be able to do this prior to July as the event schedule is very full. May have to hold it later in the year.)
* Make Primus Agmen award pouches
* Learn the duties of a Lady in Waiting
I recently stepped up as Lady in Waiting to my Baroness. What a huge step. )I didn't actually die from terror or fall over in court [YET] so I think that is a very promising start!)
* Help people with individual projects
- embroidery project for a friend: complete
- jerkin for a friend- underway
-fencing doublet - underway

Largesse

* Continue teaching garb skills
* Make more effort to chat to newcomers at events and training
* Try harder to make people feel relaxed, welcome and comfortable
Keeping an eye on newcomers and staying in touch electronically so that they know what to bring to events etc.
* Donate coffee and cake money to charity at least twice a month
- making regular donations
* Make largesse items for Gift Box
- making more jewelery




Prudence 

* Re-read Knowne World Handbook
* Read The Treasure of the City of Ladies
I must admit, this one is hard going- especially when there are so many tempting books from the period to read
*  Re-read A&S Handbook - done
* Read "At The Court of The Borgia" by Johann Burchard - underway
* Try to learn more about combat
- trying to learn more about rapier and heavy by chatting to fighters and paying more at training, reading social media posts and internet information on this area


Courtesy

* Work on shyness and awkwardness - this will be an ongoing consideration, I think.
* Make an effort to speak to people I don't know/well
* Introduce myself to strangers: working on this
* Learn to accept compliments graciously
* Learn to ask for help: I have done this a few times in the last month
* Stop avoiding Peers and Pointy Hats: working on this
* Write more recommendations for worthy individuals
* Write a resume of SCA achievements to help develop confidence within the game
- almost done!

Device Banner Project - Red Hart Device

Another banner device ticked off the list. Like most that I have done, it is made of felt and uses applique and embroidery techniques. The felt is wool felt, and I have used DMC cotton floss, DMC perle floss, and a faceted glass bead for the eye.

Stitches include whip stitch, split stitch, chain stitch, satin stitch and stem stitch.

I marked the triskellion design in Frixion brand marker, then worked them in chain stitch. Then I went over the top of the chain stitch with satin stitch. This gives a nice raised effect.

Banner Device Project- White Dragon Device

Here is a recently completed device for our Baronial device banner project. It is made of wool felt, and has embroidery, silver cord and applique. Stitches include couching, whip, stem, chain and split stitch. The eye is made from a red glass bead. DMC cotton floss, rayon floss and cotton crochet thread have been used.

Cutting linen for new chemise project

I have recently started a new project: to make a chemise for a friend. I am not sure if I have shared this before, but I know a great trick to make cutting linen evenly very easy.

Measure up your panels, and then carefully lift a thread at your cutting line. Cut the thread and pull it to create an even cutting line. The thread may break before you can pull the whole lot up; just find the broken end and keep pulling.

When you have finished pulling the thread out, you will have a perfectly even cutting line in your linen to follow!

This chemise will be entirely hand sewn. I am making it out of rectangles and squares. The underarm gussets are small squares, and the body panels and arm panels are large rectangles. The neckline and wrist holes will be gathered into embroidered bands.

Baroness Linet atte Falcon's Nest has kindly offered to help me by hand hemming the body panels. I have hemmed the gussets.

The hem is just the edge turned over twice and stitched down with tiny stitches. I aim to join the pieces together with a decorative insertion stitch. The neck and wrist holes will be gathered into the embroidered bands (once the bands are complete!)

A Child's Renaissance Dress in the Italian Style

Gosh this is an old one from 2014, and I honestly can't remember if I blogged it or not. I am notoriously bad at blogging dress diaries; it seems to be almost like reliving the trauma of sewing! This one was made for a five year old and was made from purple and red cotton (Mummy's favourite colours!) The bodice is lined in calico but there is no interlining or stiffening. The skirt is cartridge pleated. The alternating colours continue on the back of the dress. Hand sewn eyelets are laced with lucet cord made by Heather (thank you!) I put a few tucks in the hem to allow for the wearer's rapid growth. Thank you for your help with the tucks Lady Sorcha.

I must admit that little girl's dresses are much less traumatic to make than "big girl's" dresses. This dress looks lovely on the recipient and she seems to like it. Her Mummy certainly likes the colours. The tucks stiffen the hem and make it stand out beautifully.