Split-Stitch Embroidery on Woolen Hoods

Here is a project that I worked on back in August to help some friends. They were running a big event and wanted a way to identify key people on the event team, like the Head Herald, List Keeper, Head Cook etc. They came up with the idea of different coloured hoods, and I volunteered to embroider some of the designs.

Marking out embroidery designs on wool can be problematic. Normally I would recommend tracing out the design with ink, lead pencil, chalk or removable felt tip pen or Frixion pen. Sometimes, using the prick and pounce method works well. None of these methods were appropriate for this particular surface as the wool was rather fuzzy and absorbent.

I printed out the designs that I needed, then traced the design onto tracing paper.

I (pretty thoroughly) pinned the paper into place on the hood. It is important to have the design pinned down well so that it doesn't move at all. I sewed over the design in a very small running stitch.

Once the design was marked out in yellow hand sewing thread, I carefully ripped off the tracing paper, trying not to pull or distort the running stitch.

This left me with a faintly marked line of stitching to follow.

I went over the running stitch with a double strand of embroidery floss in split stitch.

I was very pleased with the final result. The motifs stood out well against the green and black wool.

Italian style Tie-On Renaissance Sleeves - Orange

I'm gradually trying to get back to normal, but it is slow going. Late last year I cut out a whole heap of different coloured tie-on sleeves with the grand plan of working through them in my "leisure time" to extend my Renaissance wardrobe.

Needless to say, other projects took over and they never ended up getting finished! Just before the last big SCA event that I went to, I realised that I had lost the sleeves that I planned to wear, and I fished out the Huge Unfinished Sleeve Pile. One pair was mostly done, so I finished them off at high speed with the help of my Mum.

This week I pulled out another tabbed pair and finished them off. I haven't had the energy yet to try them on with a gown, but I think they will look nice.

The outer shell and lining are each one piece and the seam runs down the back of the arm. This is particular sleeve is quite a loose pattern and very comfortable. I zig-zag my fabric pieces to reduce fraying. I then sew the back seam of the two arm pieces and the two lining pieces.

(This is a different pair, but it is the same technique)

Next, I make little hand stitches to hold the seams open so they don't move around or bulk up when being worn, and I put in a couple of clips to reduce any pulling on the sleeve. I put the lining and fashion fabric sleeves together with 'good' sides facing and seams visible, and then run around the top of the arm with the machine and clip. On this pair I placed the tabs in place before sewing that line of stitching. The tabs themselves are just long rectangles of fabric that are sewn up into a tube and turned so that the seams are inside. They are then cut to size and placed where I think they look good.

Once the sleeves are turned right side out (so that all the seams are hidden), it is just a matter of hemming the wrist end. I like to hem the fashion outer fabric first, and then separately whip in the lining fabric.

The final thing I do is make eyelets at the top of the sleeve to accommodate the ties that my gowns all have. It is possible to do hidden eyelets on a strip of fabric, or use hooks and eyes or decorative buttons, but eyelets suit me because I usually put my sleeves on at the event after set up etc. when I am already in my gown. I get really hot really fast, so having sleeves that are easy to get on and off is a real necessity for me and this design is perfect.

I was having issues with my phone during this process, so no progress pictures. I will try and get more for the next pair!

Bead Stringing and Flu Recovery

I haven't posted for a while because I have been suffering from a very bad case of the 'flu. I have been bedridden for a couple of weeks and even had to spend a night in hospital. It has been very debilitating, and for a lot of the time I didn't even have the energy or cognitive function to read! So I am back to the beginning of my A&S Century Challenge, and just starting to ease back into normal activities.

Naturally, there is a lot of sewing and SCA projects to be done. My Unfinished Object (UFO) pile is - as always- HUGE. I have several unfinished gowns hanging about from the last few years which I really would like to finish off. Masses of unfinished embroidery. Scribal work to complete. Officer paperwork. Plans, and plans, and plans. You all know how it is!

Yesterday I eased back into it by doing some simple beading. I went to a heraldic tournament this year which had a theme of Sun vs. Moon and the participants were given beads as tokens to hand out to people they felt were worthy of note in various areas. It was a fantastic event and I was really very chuffed with my beads and decided to string them onto tiger tail to make a little memento of a great event. Stringing them was a simple task - that seemed to take forever! It is going to take me a while to get back to normal, I think. I'm pleased with how the project turned out though.

Hemming of Body Linens

Today I am hemming body linens again. My furry helper is ill & this sort of sewing is quite soothing. No idea what day I am at now in the second round of the century challenge.

Sewing the enclosed seam flat.







Tacking down the edge of the partlet prior to pinning the second fold into place. Although it seems like extra work, I do it this way because I have a lot of issues with my hands and it hurts to sew. Any extra, uneccessary fabric manipulation just means unnecessary pain.

Purple Tie-on Italian Sleeves

Last week's realisation that I had lost the sleeves I wanted to wear to LPD prompted a frantic scurry about to find the basket of sleeves I cut out late last year to work on in my "leisure time". Luckily a purple pair was partly done and just needed edge finishing, hemming and eyelets. I got them done in time for the event but also found a couple more pairs that were partly done. So my project for the next few days will be working on those.

Here are the purple pair in-progress and completed. The black satin ribbon had already been sewn on and the seams sewn open. I whipped around the top edge of the sleeve to stop the lining rolling out. Then the purple fabric was hemmed. Then I hemmed the black lining seperately and added the eyelets.

Girl's Italian Gown

Today I finished the girl's Italian gown that I have been working on. It is a gift for a little friend's birthday this weekend, so I just scraped it in in time. It is cotton broadcloth with commercially produced pink gimp braid. The Birthday Girl loves pink, but her mum hates the colour. So this dress  is a compromise. It has cap sleeves with fabric puffs, because the Birthday Girl usually wears only a chemise underneath. It has a couple of tucks in the hem to allow for growth, which also helps to hold the hem out. It is a size 8 so that she will get (hopefully) at least two or three years worth of wear out of it.

This is the third or fourth gown that I have finished this year - I really must try to blog some dress diaries soon. Hopefully I can get some nice shots of the recipient wearing the dress.

Hemming and skirt tucks

Today I am working on finishing a project for a little friend's birthday. The task is hemming and adding tucks to a skirt.

A&S bell stringing

I've been busy with projects for other people in preparation for a big SCA event that is coming up, so no pictures to show until after the event.

A boring but necessary task today: stringing A&S competition award bells for my barony.

Herbal oil and Vinegar Workshop

I have continued with the A&S Century Challenge; it is a habit now, and also I have so much still to do.
This weekend I was privileged to attend a short but interesting workshop on making medieval oils and vinegars. It all smelt lovely and was a lot of fun.

 We made a Mint  a range of vinegars and sauces including mustard sauce, clove mouthwash and rosemary vinegar.

A&S Century Challenge - Heraldic Device

Day 105- I think! I finished this device for a friend. It will join the other registered devices on the Device banner. Ground fabric and sword are wool felt which has been whip stitched down and embroidered over. Embroidery is in split, chain and satin stitch.

My SCA Barony records the devices of members on a banner. They are recorded in order of registration under the devices of the Baron and Baroness at the time. It is a lovely way to record the populace, a great hall decoration, and can be used as a prop in a fun 'guess the heraldry' game.

A&S Century Challenge - Secret Scribey Projects

#100DaysofAS
I've been working on projects for other people and doing scribal work, so no photos. I do have a picture of my special helper. :-)

A&S Century Challenge - Embroidery Design

After doing quite a bit of scribal work yesterday, I took a break today by working on some non-counted embroidery designs.

Embroidered Napkin - A&S Century Challenge

I took a break from secret scribal stuff & works for other people and finished off an embroidered cloth. The motif is embroidered in split stitch with two strands of DMC cotton floss.

Update

I haven't posted for a while because I haven't been well. After the pleurisy I developed costochondritis and now I have a chest infection, sinus infection, salivary gland infection and a cold! So I'm not really feeling like doing anything much. I am keeping up with the A&S Century Challenge buy doing my ten minutes minimum a day - mostly working on the huge pile of Unfinished sewing and embroidery objects (UFOs).

Last year a panel in my sewing area flooded quite badly and filled a stash cupboard with dirty water and I didn't realise straight away because it came through an access panel and through the back of the cupboard. Naturally it was the cupboard that had my long-hoarded ''special'' fabrics like silk in it. As you would know by now, my budget for fabric is low so I was absolutely devastated when this happened. I had a beautiful piece of figured silk velvet from Sartor that was a gift from friends that was ruined, and the whole event made me so despondent that it put me off dealing with the issue for a long time. The leak was fixed and fabrics washed, but I never really got things packed away the way they had previously been.

This has been something I have been trying to remedy lately. I can't do much at a time but I have been trying to sort everything out and tidy things up. I still have a pile of washed fabric to iron (a job I hate!) but at least things are looking a bit more tidy. My Sartor silk has lost it's pattern, but I can probably still use it for a pair of (much less dramatic looking sleeves.) Needless to say, I will probably procrastinate about tackling that ironing for quite some time to come!

While tidying and sorting, I found three very old unfinished chemises. They are made up in a Ren-Faire style pattern with fitted sleeves and no gussets and so not ideal (or historically accurate), but they need fairly minimal work to make them wearable. Given my deplorable lack of finished undergarments at the moment, I counted that find as a win. I also found some bits and bobs that I will need for upcoming projects, so I was very happy with that too. Maybe the old saying about hard work being it's own reward is true!

A&S Century Challenge - Simple Smock

Today I finally finished doing the seams on my ex-quilt cover, cheap test-run smock. I cut the neckline a bit wide so had to put in a couple of little pleats (which I would probably do again anyway as it sits nicely & is comfortable).
I ended up sewing the hem on the machine. I will re-do it by hand, but I need to wear it on the weekend and won't get time before then. The second hand quilt cover is nice soft fabric and feels cosy. I'm pleased with how neat the felled seams look, and I will definitely put the time and trouble in to do this again on future garments. I suspect that it will prolong the life of the garment too.

A&S Challenge - Seam Treatments and a New Sash

Lots of seam treatments this week, plus I sewed up a new sash. The sash is a simple (very long) rectangle, hemmed at both ends. I toyed with the idea of adding tassels to this one as it is longer than my others, but I decided that I will get more use out of it as it is. I am not usually a fan of orange (the camera has not reproduced the colour faithfully) but I think it will look good against a black gown. I got the fabric quite cheap at a thrift store, so I am pretty happy with this find. I still have enough for an underskirt or kirtle.

A&S Century Challenge - Seam finishing

Since my last post I have been doing boring (but relaxing) seam finishing. I am still unwell and have even had a day in hospital so this relaxed handsewing suits my energy levels at the moment.
I've also done a little bit of scroll painting.

A&S Century Challenge - Seam Treatments

More hemming & seam treatments today.
I used to hate this sort of work, but now I really like it & find it relaxing.
Which is probably great, because I think I have about a million more hours worth to go.

A&S Century Challenge - Hand finishing smocks

Two smock drafts (slightly different styles) cut out and partly sewn by machine. I need to find the time to hand finish them, so that will probably keep me busy (at least) for the next several days. Illness is making me slow and sluggish at the moment.

A&S Century Challenge - Budget Sixteenth Century Undergarments

I'm still sick, so everything lately has been extra challenging.

On Saturday I went to a scribes meeting and learnt about gilding manuscripts and made a start on a new scroll.

I had an inspiring & productive A&S/training on Sunday, and came home feeling exhausted (but motivated). Lots of follow up stuff to do after that one, including paperwork.

Yesterday I faffed around adapting patterns for a little while; a task I always find challenging.

Today I grabbed a couple of minutes to cut out a test run fitted smock from an old cotton quilt cover. I have always made Italian style camicias, but sometimes they can be a little bulky for more fitted styles of late period clothing. I'm always nervous when cutting fabric, but I'm not worried today because I got this quilt cover at the op shop for $3. I should get 2 undergarments from it.

I'm looking at making a modified version of (g) - smock with simple hemmed neck and sleeve.
Image from The Tudor Tailor, reproduced at https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/a6/9f/58/a69f582207ca2d77815540ae11de6988.jpg

A&S Century Challenge - Purple Sash

A quick & easy project for today; I whipped up a new purple sash (which for some reason looks blue in the photos). It is just a long rectangular tube hemmed at the ends, very handy for changing the look of an outfit.

This type of sash goes well with the style of Italian clothing that I like to wear.

Portrait of A Woman with a Book of Music by Bacchiacca
Image from: http://www.getty.edu/art/collection/objects/668/bacchiacca-francesco-ubertini-portrait-of-a-woman-with-a-book-of-music-italian-about-1540-1545/

A&S Century Challenge - Embroidery and Trim Sewing

Today I sewed down another edge on one of the ribbons that will decorate the sleeve of my next chemise. I also found a mostly embroidered chemise sleeve, and did a little bit of work on that.
I hope to get time later on to do some illumination. My energy is very slowly starting to return as the pleurisy improves.