Orange Tie-On Sleeves

I have so many unfinished projects that I will never be bored! They actually came in handy recently though, when someone suggested that an upcoming event have a relaxed Halloween style theme. 

I remembered that I had a pair of mostly complete orange tie on sleeves with black ribbon stripes in the pile. All that was needed was about five eyelets. It didn't take long and they were finished and ready to wear on 31st of October!

The sleeves are orange cotton broadcloth with a black satin ribbon hand stitched prior to sewing the sleeve up and lining.

Work In Progress: Purple Pomegranite and Flower Embroidered Partlet

Some months ago I challenged members of my local SCA group to create an embroidered piece with the theme of  'Something New'. It could be a new item of clothing, something in a new style, something using a new stitch or technique, etc.

My aim with this challenge was to make a budget friendly partlet using items only from my stash. I also wanted to utilise some of the stitches I planned to teach in my Introduction to Embroidery class at the 'Herman’s Hnefetafl' SCA event.

My embroidery pattern is adapted from Matthias Mignerak's "La pratique de l'aiguille industrieus" dated 1605. Lotz 140. (https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b10526079n/f1.item)

Image taken from: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b10526079n/f69.item, Page 56.

I absolutely love the lace designs in this book; it is a wealth of pretty floral and fruit designs. I have another design underway as well, and plan to adapt many more for non-counted embroidery.

So far I have used split stitch and double running stitch, which can be seen on extant embroideries from places that my persona would be influenced by (sixteenth century Italy and England). The design is from a book dated slightly out of period, but I have seen similar designs in earlier pattern books. In a time before intellectual property laws and copyright, designs were unashamedly lifted and reproduced – often down to mistakes in the pattern being reproduced!

I chose a palette of purple for the design. The design is adapted from a needle lace design. It is quite common for modelbuchs and embroidery pattern books of the sixteenth century to be labelled or advertised as for embroiderers, needleworkers, goldsmiths, artists etc, suggesting that the publishers were aware that  their designs would be used in a variety of art forms.

The design and the colour palette remind me of a late 16^th century, purple embroidered Italian camicia held at the Met Museum. I am tempted to add some gilt thread to my partlet, although it will make it itchy to wear. That will be a decision for later on.

High resolution image from: http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/MetMusCamHI-RES.jpg

Analysis of this camicia can also be found in Patterns of Fashion 4 by Janet Arnold.

The base fabric that I have used for the partlet is cotton, because I am on a tight budget and I had it in my stash. Cotton was less commonly used in the sixteenth century for middle and upper class undergarments than linen, but of course is much more readily available and cheaper in modern times.

Here is an extant embroidered petticoat worked on a cotton-linen blend base which is held at the Museum of London:

Image from: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/79216.html, ID 59.77b 

I have similarly used DMC cotton threads for the embroidery, when silk would have been used in period. This choice is due to budget and availability.

Another modern adaptation that I have used is marking the design out in heat-removable Frixion marker. A range of options for marking out were used in the sixteenth century, including ink(!) but I really like the modern Frixion marker. I drew out my design in black texta on tracing paper and stuck it to a sliding door to act as a sort of light box for marking out the design.

I have a range of laces in my stash that I can use to edge the partlet when the embroidery is completed. Plain and gilt bobbin lace as well as needle laces can be seen edging camicia, partlets, coifs etc. in sixteenth century portraiture and extant examples. Since I am not likely to have time to learn how to make bobbin lace by the end of this challenge, commercially produced alternatives will have to do.

I am also likely to add some sort of embroidered edging near the centre front hem of the partlet, as this is commonly seen in sixteenth century undergarment examples which have embroidery. I haven’t decided on a design yet; I will wait until the embroidery is finished and choose something appropriate then.

Heraldic Device Banner - Device with Snails

I finished another banner device in September. I used felt again; it is so durable and doesn't fray, and I like working with it.

The motifs were sewn on first with tiny stitches. I went around the big motif with couched gilt cord and also added the same style of couching under the green panel at the top.

I used DMC cotton in split stitch to do the detail on the snails. I considered googly eyes, but added eyes on stalks in white cotton done in split stitch. I outlined the snails with black DMC floss, also in split stitch.

I added a white piece of felt on the back to cover the stitches and make the panel stronger.

These banners are a baronial project for my local SCA group. They have been created by members of the Barony to record the registration of heraldic devices by the populace. They look nice when put up at events, remind us of past members and old friends, encourage newer members to get their heraldry registered, and can be part of a fun 'guess the person' game.

Devices are listed under the devices of the Baron and Baroness in power at the time of registration. The blue panels are the oldest, followed by red and then white.

Necklace with Agate Pendant and Beads

 A nice, quick project that I finished recently for a friend. I found this agate pendant at the thrift shop and strung it with some glass and natural gemstone beads on tiger wire.

Italian-style Jerkin (Wearable Toile)

 A project that I worked on over a few months earlier in the year was making a pattern from an existing garment and making up a wearable toile. A friend wanted more of a style of loose jerkin that he likes, and I tried to puzzle it out. I lack drafting skills, so I was pleased to end up with something that he was happy to wear. I made two sleeve patterns and a pair of sleeves as well, so that removable sleeves can be added in a loose or more fitted style.

The jerkin being worn without the sleeves

I made the final toile up in a nice pale gold fabric that was originally a quilt cover. The lining is made from the lining of the quilt cover. The sleeves are made from the decorative panel that goes over the foot of the bed, and the jerkin is trimmed with commercially produced gimp braid.

Heraldic Device Banner - Device with Goblets

Here is another project that I forgot to post in July; a banner device for our local device banner. It is predominantly made of felt (because felt can stand up to the stresses of being rolled up and transported and doesn't crinkle up).

All the design elements are cut out individually and sew on, and then the trims can be applied. The goblets are surrounded with couched cords and commercially made trim is used for edging the goblets and the central area.

The completed device then gets a backing piece of felt sewn on to make it just a little thicker and more sturdy. Then it gets sewn to the banner which shows the registered heraldic devices of the local populace listed in chronological order of registration.

 

Lacing Rings on an Underkirtle

 A quick project I did to help out a friend a couple of months ago: adding lacing rings to an underkirtle.

The rings are mostly hidden behind the hemmed front flap of the garment to make the lacing come together closely and leave a very small gap. I offset the rings to allow for spiral style lacing. 

 

A Koala Visitor

 

Look who's back! It is winter here, and the roaring of koalas and possums fills the air at night.

Small Embroidered Pocket

Here is something that I have  been working on, on and off, for a while. It is a small pocket which can be used as part of my group's static A&S display for demos.

The main stitches are chain, split, double running and seeding stitch. All the motifs are taken from sixteenth century modelbuchs.

The next step is to make it up. I have some red bias binding that might be a nice decorative highlight.

Trading Cards - Red Dragon with Shoes

 Most of my scribing time over the last couple of years has been taken up with paperwork and communication. I've found it hard to get back into the swing of award scrolls and have certainly noticed a drop in skills and confidence.

One way that I am trying to combat this is by working on small projects which are 'just for fun'.

Here is a trading card that I completed. The dragon's little shoes tickled my fancy!

 The card is worked in Winsor and Newton Gouache.

I've had a lot of trouble identifying which manuscript this fellow is from, so please comment below if you know! Thanks.

 

Another Book To Hide A Phone In

Recently I was lucky enough to have a friend gift me their old phone - I'm excited thinking about the better quality photos I can take. It did mean, though, that I needed a new book to hide it in for SCA events.

One of the hardest parts about making the book cover is finding a book that you are willing to cut up. It also needsto have no visible title, author name etc.

You might remember the last one of these I made: http://broidermebethan.blogspot.com/2019/09/a-book-to-hide-phone-in.html

I changed the process this time, based on what I learned last time. I added the metal corners to the book first, and used a piece of felt under the prongs of the pliers to reduce damage to the metal. I used a craft knife to cut each page individually.

I also changed how I glued the pages. Initially I tried a glue stick, but it was not strong enough so I changed to white craft clue. I watered it down more than last time I made one of these, and used a bit less so that the book didn't get quite so saturated with glue. I used E6000 glue to stick the phone cover into the hole.

I used gold gouache to paint the edges of the pages gold.

I did remove several pages completely because the built up glue adds thickness. Sticking the pages down also distorts the pages as well. It is important to start from the back when gluing the pages down, and to pull them quite tight until they stick. I left the front pages free. 

I cut the hole at the back for the camera lens a bit larger than the holes because I found with the last book that the overhang caused some shadowing on my pictures.

Using less glue meant that the book dried much faster than the last time. I was able to use the book to hide my phone at the last event, and it worked very well.

 

 

Birds and Flowers Green Embroidered Caul

I recently finished this long term project. I have worked on this and a couple of other pieces every year at one of our Medieval Faire demos. I was trying to work out how long I have been working on them - probably one day a year for ten years! It is nice to have it finally finished. It is a record of how my skills have developed over that time.

 

The embroidery is worked in DMC embroidery floss on linen ground fabric, and the spangles are metal.

The fabric circle is gathered into a band which is decorated with green ribbon, I have added a metal comb inside the band to help keep the caul in place, and a couple of little buttonhole rings to slide bobby pins through.

This link to a previous post gives more information on the construction process: http://broidermebethan.blogspot.com/2014/05/purple-velvet-caul.html

Heraldic Embroidered Napkins

I made these napkins some time ago as a gift for a friend. They are embroidered with her heraldic animal in split stitch. There is a line of running stitch around the edge of each napkin. I find cloth napkins to be really useful, especially for covering plates of food at events.

Embroidered Camicia Sleeves

I recently completed the sleeve panels for a new chemise. The motifs are worked mainly in stem stitch with  some double running stitch for some of the internal details.

The inspiration page from Shorleyker's 'A Sholehouse for the Needle'

The panels with the designs marked out in Frixion marker.

The completed sleeve panels.

I'm currently adding a motif to the front and back panels, and then will do the sleeve gussets.

Then I plan to hem each panel by hand and assemble them with a decorative faggoting stitch.

 

Gold Tie-On Sleeves

 I've been working on that perennial project again - the Sleeve Pile.

I got this pair of gold tie-on sleeves completed last month.

I ordered a silk fabric from a vendor on Etsy and got this fabric instead. It arrived with grease stains on it. I managed to launder it but never did get the silk I ordered. Still, I think this mystery fabric is pretty.

Bonnet and Coif

 Some pictures of the new bonnet with one of my embroidered coifs. (My actual head is a lot bigger than this foam hat form, so the bonnet and coif sit better.)