Partlet with Holly Embroidery - Update 4

I'm pretty happy with how the 'border' turned out. Something different from the other partlets in my wardrobe, anyway.

The next big decision to make was which lace to use. I still haven't found the time to learn to make bobbin lace, so I had to use commercially made lace from my stash. I wanted gold, but the bright gold really made it look to Christmas-y. Luckily I remembered a lighter gilt lace that I had tucked away.

I'm really pleased with how it looked once sewn on. I also added a line of small running stitches in single thread to finish off the hem area. 

Now that the pain of all those little berries is not as fresh in my mind, I am already thinking about other colour combinations that I could do! Hemming first.

Partlet with Holly Embroidery - Update 3

With the holly embroidery complete, I felt that there was too much negative space between the centre-front hem and the design, so Trevellyon came to the rescue again! I adapted the border design around the holly pattern in his book and worked it in red and green.

The central horizontal stitches are double running stitch and the border is worked in split stitch (both with two strands of DMC floss).

Partlet with Holly Embroidery - Update 2

Split stitch and double running stitch embroidery is complete.

Partlet with Holly Berries

My first 'holly' project is going to be a partlet decorated with the holly design in one of Trevellyon's borders from his Miscellany. (I plan to register a heraldic badge that has holly on it, so there my be more holly themed items in the future.)

A page from Thomas Treveyllon's Miscellany from 1608

The base fabric is a lovely fine linen. The design was marked out with an iron-away Frixion marker. The berries are embroidered in two strands of red DMC 498 cotton, and the leaves and stems in two strands of green DMC 3818 cotton. I considered other colourways, but decided to go with realistic colours for this first project. In period, of course, silk would most likely have been used for this project. I have used cotton due to cost and availability issues.

The stems, leaves and berry outlines are being worked in split stitch, and the line across each berry is done in double running (Holbein) stitch.

When making partlets, I often do what is not recommended, and make up the garment first. I use a small hand-sewn hem on my Italian partlets, and I find having the centre front hem completed can be useful in ensuring that the design is perfectly aligned with the centre front edge of the partlet. If you decide to do it this way, you should be careful to ensure that the edges of the garment do not get stretched and warped by your hoop. I use a very small hoop and move it often, being careful not to stretch the linen base fabric.

Embroidered Petticoat Panels

Some inspiration for a future embroidery project:



Embroidered petticoat panel c 1600, V&A Museum
Item Number T.138-1981
from: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O85436/petticoat-panel-unknown/

Decorated coat ideas

I recently saw some photos of myself in garb at an event and decided that I want another outer coat. The hard part is deciding what style. At this stage, I am thinking loose and 3/4 length; possibly with hanging sleeves, and heavy on the decoration. It also needs to work with Elizabethan and Italian styles.

I put together some pictures that have inspirational trim/decoration:

from: bjws.blogspot.com

 

Eleanor of Toledo by Allesandro Allori, c.1560, image provided by Jon.

ffrom: elizabethan-portraits.com

from: wikipaintings.org

from: lib-art.com

Mary Martyn from A Who's Who of Tudor Women

from: craftster.org

from: lesderniersvalois.com

Titian's La Bella from  online.wsj.com

from: tudorplace.com.ar

from: tudorplace.com.ar

Blue dress update

I worked on the gold bias binding last night but have had a few hiccups with the joins being too thick. I think I have enough in one strip to trim the bodice, but will have to try again for a longer piece for sleeve trimming.

Un-corseted dress plans

I have been thinking a lot about that picture of St Ursula from the Denver Art Museum that I posted recently:

http://www.denverartmuseum.org/sites/default/files/slides/Media%20browser/collections_ps_1961_168AT.jpg

and also this, similar one

http://uploads8.wikipaintings.org/images/vittore-carpaccio/portrait-of-a-lady-1.jpg

and I am thinking of making my new un-corseted dress in a similar sort of style. I am so used to the straight up-and-down look of corseted gowns, I think I may be disappointed with how it turns out.

I have chosen a dark blue cotton for this dress because I had it in stash and also because I hope it will minimise my bust a little. If it works out okay, I might add an over-gown as well.

I have adjusted one of my existing bodice patterns to allow for the rounder bustline. I have cut the lining in a medium-heavy canvas and also a cotton lining fabric. I have made it front-lacing so that I can dress alone. I think I will have to add some sort of boning structure beside the lacing holes to give strength and to stop the cords pulling the fabric too much. I am considering light weight flat steel boning or maybe cable ties with an eyelet and ring combination. I have used heavy duty cable ties (in casings) as a light weight structural support next to eyelets before, but never in a dress that is to be worn without a corset or underbodies, so I am not sure how it will hold up.

I haven't even had a chance to edge the cut-out pattern pieces yet, so there is still time to think about it!