Blue dress update

The blue dress is getting very close to completion. I have been playing with different sizes and colours of pearls to see how they will look along the front edge of the bodice, and working on the sleeves.

Testing how pearls will look along the front edge of the bodice.

Blue dress update

Today I have some hand sewing to do on the sleeves that match the blue dress. I made some more bias binding which needs to be hand stitched into place.

The tie-on sleeve and lining waiting to be sewn

The sleeves will be tie-on and have gaps where the chemise will puff out. I have saved some blue fabric to do 'fancy' sleeves later.

I also bought some toupe clips to sew into my Juliet cap to help hold it in place.

Blue dress update

I managed to blunder my way through my first attempt at knife pleating, and I am quite happy with how it turned out. The knife pleats sit much more smoothly than cartridge pleats, and I am now a fan of knife pleating. I had forgotten how much sewing down pleats hurts the fingertips- no difference there between knife and cartridge pleats!

The knife pleats sewn in

I also finished the lacing holes. I am playing with different ways of lacing - here is X lacing. The ladder lacing also looks nice.

I now need to add some hooks and eyes in the gap in the skirt. I am considering adding a modesty placket as well. I will hang the dress for a few more days, then hem it.

I am also pleased to say that the dress fits. I made it a bit looser than I normally make my gowns, mainly because I normally wear a corset which smooths out the lumps and bumps. I won't be wearing a corset with this one, so I think the world doesn't need to see my back fat!

Blue dress update

I am working on sewing on the bias binding at this stage.

Blue dress update

I worked on the gold bias binding last night but have had a few hiccups with the joins being too thick. I think I have enough in one strip to trim the bodice, but will have to try again for a longer piece for sleeve trimming.

Blue dress update

Here is what I have been up to over the last few days with the blue dress...

Overstitching the edges for extra strength. There is a layer of 'fashion fabric' (cotton), an interlining of strong calico and a lining of cotton duck.

The layers of the bodice tacked and  ready to be pinned and hand stitched together.

A completed edge showing stab and whip stitching.

Preparing to mark out the gold broadcloth to make bias trim (with my furry helper!)

The skirt panels are cut and waiting to be sewn. I still need to decide on what style of pleating; I am thinking knife pleats.

Blue dress update

I have done most of the hand sewing of the blue dress bodice. I stab stitched the bodice pieces together and then whipped the edges. I also stab stitched and reinforced the seams. I have one armhole to finish and then I will post photos.

Now I am ready to make the bias binding to decorate the bodice, and decide on what I am going to do about the lacing.

My inspiration portraits have hidden lacing.

       
St Ursula (also known as Woman with a book) by Carpaccio- denverartmuseum.org            



Portrait of a Lady by Carpaccio c. 1495 - wikipaintings.org














But I have a large bust, so I am thinking that I might be better served by eyelet holes for extra strength. I do have some lovely lacing rings for a front opening bodice, but I am not sure they will be strong enough.

There are many examples of front lacing dresses from Italy and surrounds that would work:

Portrait of a a Girl With Cherries by Circle of Leonardo c.1491-95 - paintingall.com
(See also http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/91.26.5)

Ghirlandaio's Portrait of a Lady - en.wikipedia.org

Portrait of Constanza Caetani by Fra  Bartolomeo c. 1489-90 from


http://www.angelfire.com/zine/kiarapanther/garb/gamurra.html

Ghirlandaio's Portrait of A Woman - artcyclopedia.com

I am thinking that this type of lacing (below) will add strength and be unobtrusive. I hope the horizontal lines won't ruin the look of the gold bias decoration.

Portrait of a Young Woman by Ghirlandaio c 14885 -  

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Domenico_Ghirlandaio_078.gif 

Portrait of a Girl by Ghirlandaio c. 1490 - from wikipaintings.org

Profile of a Woman by Botticelli c. 1480-85 from  

http://www.museothyssen.org/microsites/exposiciones/2010/Ghirlandaio/museo2_en.html

Portrait of Giovanna Tornabuoni by Ghirlandaio-    from wikipedia.org

Blue dress update

I haven't made any progress this week on the blue dress but I did play around with adapting a sleeve pattern. This is a completely new style to me, so I have no idea how it will work...

Blue dress ideas

denverartmuseum.org / wikipaintings.org

I have been looking hard at the two pictures I posted recently which are the inspiration for the new blue dress. It looks to me that, in the St Ursula one at least (left), the large pearls are attached to the underdress or chemise.

I like the decoration, I am just not sure that I want to be restricted to wearing a particular chemise with that specific dress. I think I will have to pull out my stash of pearl beads and see how it will look if I add a line of pearls to the top of the bodice itself. There are lots of examples of similar dresses from similar times in Italy with pearl decoration, so I have a bit of lee-way. (I don't want to make an exact replica of the St Ursula dress.) If you look closely at the two portraits, there are big differences between the way the artists have drawn the layers of clothing.

Here are some more paintings that I have been looking to for inspiration:

Portrait of a Lady by Neroccio de Landi -  http://bertc.com/subfour/g128/neroccio.htm

Carpaccio's 'Meeting of the Betrothed Couple' (1495) - realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net

Carpaccio's 'Meeting of the Betrothed Couple' (1495) - oceansbridge.com

Portrait of Catharina Corano, Queen of Cyprus (1500)-  1st-art-gallery.com


It's time to start thinking about sleeves and hair accessories too.

Blue dress progress

Well, I tried the bodice on, and it looks like it will do. It is much less structured than I am used to, but should be fine for casual events when I cannot wear a corset.

Next I will hand finish the arm holes and make a decision about pleating the skirt, and the type of lacing I will use.

Blue Dress Progress

I am still plodding along slowly with the front-lacing blue dress.

I have sewn and edge-stitched the front and neck edges of the bodice and tacked the armholes into place. The tiny bones fit in very nicely and I am extremely happy with how that part turned out. I just sewed a small casing between the interlining and base lining and slotted them in.

Next I will dig out a chemise and try it on. That is always the daunting part! Then, I will stab stitch and edge stitch the armholes.

Blue dress progress

After my last post pondering boning options, I rummaged around in my stash and managed to find two tiny little flat steel bones that should be ideal for strengthening the front panel.

The bodice pieces are cut out now and have been edged. Next will be hand sewing.

I need to decide whether to cartridge pleat or knife pleat the skirt on. Any suggestions from readers who have done this sort of dress would be very welcome!

Un-corseted dress plans

I have been thinking a lot about that picture of St Ursula from the Denver Art Museum that I posted recently:

http://www.denverartmuseum.org/sites/default/files/slides/Media%20browser/collections_ps_1961_168AT.jpg

and also this, similar one

http://uploads8.wikipaintings.org/images/vittore-carpaccio/portrait-of-a-lady-1.jpg

and I am thinking of making my new un-corseted dress in a similar sort of style. I am so used to the straight up-and-down look of corseted gowns, I think I may be disappointed with how it turns out.

I have chosen a dark blue cotton for this dress because I had it in stash and also because I hope it will minimise my bust a little. If it works out okay, I might add an over-gown as well.

I have adjusted one of my existing bodice patterns to allow for the rounder bustline. I have cut the lining in a medium-heavy canvas and also a cotton lining fabric. I have made it front-lacing so that I can dress alone. I think I will have to add some sort of boning structure beside the lacing holes to give strength and to stop the cords pulling the fabric too much. I am considering light weight flat steel boning or maybe cable ties with an eyelet and ring combination. I have used heavy duty cable ties (in casings) as a light weight structural support next to eyelets before, but never in a dress that is to be worn without a corset or underbodies, so I am not sure how it will hold up.

I haven't even had a chance to edge the cut-out pattern pieces yet, so there is still time to think about it!

Daily Inspiration

I've decided to start posting pics of garb that I like on days that I haven't got anything much done.

Here is today's: a picture of St Ursula from the Denver Art Museum (now in the Accademia in Venice). (denverartmuseum.org)

I like the pearl trimming on the underkirtle/chemise(?) and also the narrow ware tie. I am wondering if that design is woven into the tie, or embroidered. I think that this is a relatively short-waisted bodice, judging from the accessories she is wearing. Perfect for someone with my body type!