Unpicking my Italian gown and Elizabethan coat

I started two sewing projects mid to late last year; an Italian front lacing gown (in blue) and an Elizabethan coat (in grey). I worked on them yesterday but I'm afraid my fatigue and brain fog was so bad that I spent more time un-picking and re-sewing and ironing than actually achieving anything. On the plus side, I am getting very good at unpicking!

Decorated coat ideas

I recently saw some photos of myself in garb at an event and decided that I want another outer coat. The hard part is deciding what style. At this stage, I am thinking loose and 3/4 length; possibly with hanging sleeves, and heavy on the decoration. It also needs to work with Elizabethan and Italian styles.

I put together some pictures that have inspirational trim/decoration:

from: bjws.blogspot.com

 

Eleanor of Toledo by Allesandro Allori, c.1560, image provided by Jon.

ffrom: elizabethan-portraits.com

from: wikipaintings.org

from: lib-art.com

Mary Martyn from A Who's Who of Tudor Women

from: craftster.org

from: lesderniersvalois.com

Titian's La Bella from  online.wsj.com

from: tudorplace.com.ar

from: tudorplace.com.ar

Purple linen coat

Well, I bit the bullet! I tidied up my loose coat pattern, and cut it out in purple linen. The white bias binding is pre-rinsed and drying. I haven't cut a sleeve pattern yet because I am still making up my mind as to which style I will choose, but I will post pictures when I start getting somewhere with this project.

Elizabethan coat ideas

Here are some ideas for the other option that I am considering for my upcoming event - Elizabethan coats or 'frocks'. The advantages with this option are that I have several that are mostly finished, I am familiar with construction techniques, I have ironed out the kinks in my pattern, I have completed loose under-kirtles that are ready to wear, and I can make a low-necked version to help keep me cool. The disadvantage is that I really need to wear a hoop to make this style look it's best on me, and that is not a hugely practical option.

I absolutely love this one below from http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Cooke,Mildred(BBurghley)01.jpg One day I would like to make a complete outfit based on this portrait.

 

Catherine Carey 1562 - 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catherine_Carey

 

 

Hans Eworth's Portrait of An Unknown Lady c 1565 - shafe.co.uk

Portrait of Katherine Parr - luminarium.org

Portrait of Bess of Hardwick as Mistress St Lo (1550s) - 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Bess_of_Hardwick_as_Mistress_St_Lo.jpg 

Portrait of Elizabeth Benlowes 1569  - modehistorique.com

Portrait of Mary Hill (1567) - kate meersonhistoricals.com

Portrait of Anne Russell, Countess of Warwick (c 1565) - lookandlearn.com

Portrait of An Unknown Lady (1567) - larsdatter.com

 

Anne Browne, Lady Petre (1567) - larsdatter.com

Mary Throckmorton, Lady Scudamore (1615) - threadtraveller.blogspot.com.au

Portrait of Lady Dacre by Hans Eworth (1547) - larsdattar.com

Portrait of Theophila, wife of third Earl of Worcester (1567) - larsdatter.com

Portrait of the family of Lord Cobham - myartprints.co.uk

Preparations

I am preparing to start the Realm of Venus mini-challenge tomorrow. In light of my health problems, I have probably bitten off more than I can chew, but I have enjoyed the preliminary research. I need a nice new coat for winter; I have a green Dutch coat made out of green recycled wool blanket, but it is quite itchy so I am keen to get something more comfortable.

The coat must be usable for both Elizabethan and Italian ensembles. Here are my main inspirations scanned  from Vecellio's Costume Book (Italian section):

Plate 190- 'Unmarried peasant woman of Tuscany' got added by mistake!

Hopefully I will be able to finish in time. I will post progress and pictures at the end.