Wednesday, March 11, 2020

Red and Gold Tie-On Sleeves Made From A Sari

I made these sleeves last year as a bit of an experiment. I found a child's tunic made from a sari in a local thrift shop, and loved the fabric. Although a modern fabric, it did not look jarringly modern, and I felt that it would make a nice pair of detachable sleeves.

I carefully washed and dried the tunic. Unpicking it was challenging as the fabric is delicate and has gilt metal threads through it. I would not be surprised if it is a silk or silk blend fabric. The garment had obviously had several adjustments for a growing child, and there were interesting tucks and joins all over the tunic.

I also removed the trim which was pretty but very much the worse for wear.
Once the fabric pieces had been carefully pressed, I positioned my sleeve pattern so that the pattern was facing the same way on both sleeves while trying to avoid any holes or damaged areas.
Cutting the wine coloured cotton lining fabric was much easier; no patterns or mends to worry about.
I usually don't use my fashion fabric as a pattern, but I was in a big hurry for this project.

Once the sleeves and linings were cut out, I edged them with zigzag stitch to reduce fraying. I then machine sewed the seams, and finger pressed the inside of the sleeves open. I hand sewed the seams open with tiny, hidden stitches. I then put the lining and sleeve together inside out.

This is always a step that I have trouble with. I just can't seem to visually 'get' how they are supposed to go, so I usually baste or safety pin along where the seam will be prior to sewing, and then turn them right way out to make sure the insides of the seams are hidden and the fashion fabric is outside and facing the right way with everything looking correct. Only then do I turn it back inside out, pin and sew. After another double-check, I clip the curves on the armscye and then turn the sleeve the right way out.

I usually baste or pin around the shoulder part of the sleeve to make sure it is sitting right and then I work the eyelet holes. This is a job that I detest as it is very painful for my fingers. I usually can only do one or two holes a day.

When I had the eyelets done, I hemmed the wrist area. I turned the fashion fabric up first, and stitched it down with tiny hidden stitches. Then I pinned the lining into place, slightly shorter than the outer fashion fabric hem. (This stops the lining from rolling out.) I then stitched the lining wrist hem down.

I think I paid around $4AU for the sari tunic. It is delicate and probably won't last too many wears, but I was happy with how the sleeves turned out and I thought it was a worthwhile experiment at a good price.


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