Wulsthaube Schleier or Steuchlein with Whitework Embroidery In A Fretted Band

Basel, Universitätsbibliothek, AN II 3, p. 121r – Matriculation Register of the Rectorate of the University of Basel, Volume 1 (1460-1567) Coat of arms for Adam von Müllenberg, SS 1509

available at: https://www.pinterest.com.au/pin/22447698115940777/

At Christmas time I made a Wulsthaube schleier (wulst veil) for a friend who is exploring 15th Century German clothing. I chose a pattern from the German Modelbucher book:

  

The design is not super symmetrical, which is something I tend to struggle with, but I decided to leave it as is and not adjust it. 

I cut out a piece of linen in a rectangle shape with a rounded top edge and hemmed it all with a whip stitch.

I traced out my chosen design in Frixion marker using a window as a light board.

I used silk floss in a lovely cream colour to work the design. The main stitch used was split stitch. The silk was wonderful to sew with.

Initially, I wasn't sure that the embroidery needed a second band framing the main design. When I finished working the design that I initially marked out, it was lacking something. I added the second border and it looked much more balanced.

I didn't put the dots in on the frettes because the frette is part of my Barony's heraldry, and I didn't want the dots to distract from the frettes.

I knotted my stitching off on the back of the piece to aid in washability.

I'm quite pleased with the outcome of this project. The design is quite charming, and the result is pretty and understated (which suits the recipient). I haven't seen the item worn yet; I'm looking forward to seeing how it looks on.

I recommend Katafalk's tutorials on different ways to make steuchleins and wulsthaubes:
https://katafalk.wordpress.com/2013/01/01/patternmaking-for-the-kampfrau-wulsthaube/
https://katafalk.wordpress.com/2012/06/24/pattern-making-for-the-kampfrau-steuchlein/

and this excellent tutorial for a different perspective:
http://germanrenaissance.net/making-and-wearing-a-steuchlein-with-a-wulsthaube-and-schleier-german-bulge-hat-and-veil/