'Oldies but Goldies' Series - "Virtues" Chemise

I recently was surprised to find a folder on my computer with notes on old projects and research notes that I meant to blog about. I hope you won't mind if I occasionally post some of these less than current projects.

This one is from at least 2015 or 2016 (possibly earlier, I cant remember the date!). I made this chemise band for a dear friend. It is embroidered with chivalric virtues and the design is taken from a 16th extant modelbuch. The base fabric is linen, but it was so long ago that I cant remember if it was worked in silk or DMC floss. 

Mer-folk Embroidered Band

I made this embroidered band last year thinking I might use it on the front of a chemise. I had a big SCA event recently, and I decided to use it as a decorative band on a stomacher to cover my pair of bodies. I actually ended up wearing a different stomacher to the event, but I am glad to have another one in my wardrobe.

I have admired the clothing in this Portrait of Lady Kytson by George Gower held by the Tate Gallery for a long time, and her chemise band is what inspired this piece. (Image from‘Lady Kytson‘, George Gower, 1573 | Tate) One day I'd love to have time to work a pair of sleeves like this too. 

The base fabric is linen and the embroidery is worked in black DMC floss. The project was created entirely from stash items. I worked out my design and then marked it on tracing paper and traced it onto the fabric with crayola washable marker using a light board. Stitches used are split and double running stitch and knots.

I sewed the band onto a panel of stash cotton fabric, ironed it and bagged it out with another panel of cotton. 'Bagging out' means sewing your lining edge to your fashion fabric edge right sides together. Then you trim, grade or notch (if necessary) and turn right side out. The seam allowance ends up on the inside and you have a finished edge that needs no other treatment. You just need to handsew the opening shut. My understanding is that this is a modern method which is predominantly used with a sewing machine. It is a quick and easy way of sewing squares and rectangles together.

I feel like the top edge needs a little something extra; maybe some tufts or black needlelace similar to the smock/chemise in the portrait.

The finished band

The back of the work

My little helper

My pattern is taken from the Modelbuch 'Splendore Della Virtuose Giovanni' by Iseppo Foresto, published in Venice in 1564 and held by the Met Museum, available here: //www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/349915. I have seen many variations on this design in period modelbucher, usually with mer-people (often mermaids) holding something between them and foliate designs around them. (Maestra Praxilla Taurina has put together a useful list of Modelbuch to drool over, which can be found here: Is that an Apres?: Modelbuch List (daughterofthebull.blogspot.com) )

My adjusted design based on the Iseppo Foresto pattern

Fixing old clothes

 It has been a hectic couple of months between health issues and lots of SCA projects. I have changed shape, and recently discovered that a lot of my garb doesn't fit or doesn't fit comfortably. Luckily I saved a lot of my old garb from fifteen or so years ago, so I have been rediscovering old clothes. It's interesting to see how my sewing and construction style has changed over that time too. Needless to say, a lot needs fixing/improving/tweaking. My local group is about to host Coronation, so I have a lot to fix in a short amount of time!

Making an Embroidered Meerkat Device

I finished this large embroidered heraldic device last year. It is worked in wools, predominantly in split stitch.

I traced the heraldic design out in  pencil, and worked the piece in a hoop

I had an earlier attempt at the design but was unhappy with the stitching and texture of the thread

Adding in the details of the 'weasels'

Blocking the panel

Adding tacked lines as a sewing guide

Stitching the ermines 

Backing the piece with felt and adding twill tape belt loops

I added a band of purple trim around the edge to finish it off
 

Season's Greetings!

 Wishing you all a peaceful and safe holiday season!

Another Embroidery Challenge

This year I ran another Embroidery Challenge within my local SCA group; pre-1600 embroidery with an open theme.

The aim of the Challenge was to provide opportunities to display work in a low anxiety, non-competitive environment and hopefully inspire others to get excited about embroidery, with everyone welcome to participate regardless of experience or skill level.

I like to make tokens to recognise those people who put the work in and take part. These are the tokens for the latest Challenge. We had a fair turn out, given the busy time of year.

Following an informal class I taught in October, I have also announced a Freehand Challenge which will run into next year. The theme of that one is pre-1600 inspired embroidery done without a pattern or markings. It should be interesting to see how everyone finds it and discuss how it all went!

New shinies

 I recently bought some simple fibula for some ancient garb from my talented costumier friend Bhri. (I'm planning on making some hot weather friendly garb soon.)

I also got some pretty hand made pins for the period sewing kit that I use at demos.

She takes commissions too, so get in touch if you'd like to chat about having something made.

Maroon Balzo

 I recently finished this balzo. It was an easy make, but sewing all the little beads on took quite a long time.

Construction is relatively simple; make a long fabric tube big enough to go around your head and allow ease and add about an inch/2.5cm extra on each end (this is to allow for the end to be turned under).

Stuff the tube with fibrefill or pillow stuffing until it is moderately stiff but still flexible enough to bend around your head.

Turn the end of one end of the tube under and pin it over the other end, creating a donut shape. Pin securely. Try it on to make sure it fits. Adjust if necessary, and hand sew the opening securely closed.

Next, you are going to use the donut as a pattern for the lid. There are hats like this which are just the donut shape, but I prefer the covered sort to protect from scalp sunburn.

Using a large piece of wrapping paper or old sheet etc, cut out the rough shape of the donut leaving about 5cm extra all the way around. We are aiming to cut out a lid shape.

Put the lid shape toile over the donut to make sure it will fit, and that there is enough fabric to turn a hem under. Make any adjustments necessary and then cut out your fashion fabric.

Hand sew the 'lid' onto the donut, turning a hem under as you go. You don't want it drum tight; there should be a little bit of ease as the lid will sit against the back of your head/hair.

Add trims as desired.

This particular balzo was inspired by this portrait below:

'Portrait of a Lady with a G*psy' by the Italian School, 15th C

Image from: ://www.mutualart.com/Artwork/PORTRAIT-OF-A-LADY-WITH-A-GYPSY/05D83263A5F30FD8

Italian School, 15th Century | PORTRAIT OF A LADY WITH A GYPSY | MutualArt

But there are many similar ones to be seen in portraiture from the sixteenth century, including this one: 

Vincenzo Pagani (1490-1568) - Annunciation (1532) - Palazzo Ducale Urbino - Galleria Nazionale delle Marche, image found via: //au.pinterest.com/pin/1337074878802655/

'Anguissola' Beaded Necklace

 I recently had the opportunity to celebrate a dear friend (who is now my Apprentice Sister!)

I decided to make a necklace inspired by the girl on the left of this lovely portrait by Sofonisba Anguissola.

Portrait of Three Children with a Dog by Sofonisba Anguissola

Image from: https://www.wikiart.org/en/sofonisba-anguissola/three-children-with-dog-1590

The beads are semi-precious (I can't remember if they are quartz or agate) strung on gold tiger tail wire with gold beads and crimps and a gold heart pendant. The clasp is bar and loop style, as I find that much easier to put on and off.

The necklace I made has more rounded beads. The inspiration piece has oval shaped beads which look a little smaller. The pendant also looks a little different, but it is not a bad match.

'Bunnies' Heraldic Device

I finished another heraldic device for the Baronial device banner a while ago. It has a felt base with applied felt on top.

I had a couple of tries at working the bunnies, with slips being my first idea. It was unsuccessful, and in the end I appliqued a bunny shaped felt base to add a bit of dimension, and then split stitched on top of it.

The central chevron was stitched in place and then gilt thread appliqued over the edges. The pink dots are guidelines for where ermines need to be embroidered.

I did the back legs of the bunny in a very pale grey to look a bit like shadow and add depth. I did a black outline for definition and added shiny black beads for eyes. I used smaller black beads for the centre parts of the ermines. They really catch the light.

The teeny cotton puffs came in a Christmas craft pack and I was just thrilled with them. 

Pinning and sewing another piece of felt on the back for extra stability (the banner gets rolled up).

The completed piece. I like how this one turned out.

Some of the banners from the Baronial Device Banner Project on display last year.

Adjusting an old chemise

I had major surgery a few months back and my recovery has been hampered by lingering chest infections so I haven't been able to do any major projects. I've been focused on maintaining a minimum of ten minutes of A&S activity a day.

One thing I did manage to do this week was to shorten an old chemise. I think I made it back in the early 2000s, and I rarely wear it because it is quite heavy fabric. I originally made it almost ankle length, which is a bit unmanageable. Any time I wear it I think 'I must alter this' and then I put it off or forget. 

It was only a very quick job because I hemmed it with the sewing machine, but I am really glad I managed to get this one small thing ticked off the to-do list after so long. Small wins!

The embroidery motif on this chemise is taken from Shorleyker's 'A Scholehouse for the Needle':

Crayola Washable Marker Experiment

For some years I have been using Frixion heat removable markers to transfer embroidery designs onto light coloured fabric with some success. I have also regularly used them in place of Tailors' Chalk. I've only had a couple of instances where the marker has stained the fabric. But I have heard that very cold temperatures can make the ink come back, and I put an embroidery in the freezer to confirm that it is true. So, I needed to find an alternative marker.

Crayola washable textas were recommended to me, so I purchased a pack and did a test run on a poly cotton blend fabric. All the inks washed out in a cold machine wash, so the next trial will be on linen.

The test panel before washing.

The test panel after a cold machine wash.

 

Wolf Head Heraldic Device for Baronial Device Banners

You might remember that my Barony has a banner device project where the registered heraldic devices of the populace are recorded in order of registration or moving to the Barony. Well, I've recently been helping some friends by creating their devices for the banner project.

Some of the banners on display in a hall

I finished this one recently and I was quite happy with how it turned out. It is blazoned as 'Purpure, a wolf's head cabossed and on a chief argent a rose azure between two ivy vines vert'. (And a big shout out to the people who keep the Lochac Roll of Arms updated and running - it is a fantastic resource for scribes and artisans!)  Kingdom of Lochac Roll of Arms - Home (sca.org)

I embroidered the rose and ivy with DMC cotton floss on a separate piece of white fabric using split and stem stitches after marking the design out with a Frixion marker. After ironing the finished piece, I cut the base fabric down and sewed it to a small piece of white felt which would become the chief part of the shield shape.

The wolf head was cut out of white felt and stitched onto a purple felt base. I added an extra piece of felt for the muzzle part, to add a bit of depth to the piece. The image on the Roll of Arms showed a smiling wolf, but the recipient preferred it drawn looking a little more fierce. 

A piece of black felt was added for the nose, and some cream felt for inside the ears.

Then I started embroidering on details in black and white cotton.

I added a few extra lines to add definition and visual interest.

Finally, I sewed the chief in place and used some gilt embroidery thread to define the purple and white backgrounds. I had a luscious deep blue bead that looked good inside the centre of the flower.

Decorating complete, the very last task was to sew another shield shape in felt to the back to add strength to the piece. (The banners get rolled up when not in use, so a backing layer is a good idea to stop fabric distortion.)

The completed piece is now sewn in it's proper place on the banner and looks good!