Mer-folk Embroidered Band

I made this embroidered band last year thinking I might use it on the front of a chemise. I had a big SCA event recently, and I decided to use it as a decorative band on a stomacher to cover my pair of bodies. I actually ended up wearing a different stomacher to the event, but I am glad to have another one in my wardrobe.

I have admired the clothing in this Portrait of Lady Kytson by George Gower held by the Tate Gallery for a long time, and her chemise band is what inspired this piece. (Image from‘Lady Kytson‘, George Gower, 1573 | Tate) One day I'd love to have time to work a pair of sleeves like this too. 

The base fabric is linen and the embroidery is worked in black DMC floss. The project was created entirely from stash items. I worked out my design and then marked it on tracing paper and traced it onto the fabric with crayola washable marker using a light board. Stitches used are split and double running stitch and knots.

I sewed the band onto a panel of stash cotton fabric, ironed it and bagged it out with another panel of cotton. 'Bagging out' means sewing your lining edge to your fashion fabric edge right sides together. Then you trim, grade or notch (if necessary) and turn right side out. The seam allowance ends up on the inside and you have a finished edge that needs no other treatment. You just need to handsew the opening shut. My understanding is that this is a modern method which is predominantly used with a sewing machine. It is a quick and easy way of sewing squares and rectangles together.

I feel like the top edge needs a little something extra; maybe some tufts or black needlelace similar to the smock/chemise in the portrait.

The finished band

The back of the work

My little helper

My pattern is taken from the Modelbuch 'Splendore Della Virtuose Giovanni' by Iseppo Foresto, published in Venice in 1564 and held by the Met Museum, available here: //www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/349915. I have seen many variations on this design in period modelbucher, usually with mer-people (often mermaids) holding something between them and foliate designs around them. (Maestra Praxilla Taurina has put together a useful list of Modelbuch to drool over, which can be found here: Is that an Apres?: Modelbuch List (daughterofthebull.blogspot.com) )

My adjusted design based on the Iseppo Foresto pattern

Fixing old clothes

 It has been a hectic couple of months between health issues and lots of SCA projects. I have changed shape, and recently discovered that a lot of my garb doesn't fit or doesn't fit comfortably. Luckily I saved a lot of my old garb from fifteen or so years ago, so I have been rediscovering old clothes. It's interesting to see how my sewing and construction style has changed over that time too. Needless to say, a lot needs fixing/improving/tweaking. My local group is about to host Coronation, so I have a lot to fix in a short amount of time!

Making an Embroidered Meerkat Device

I finished this large embroidered heraldic device last year. It is worked in wools, predominantly in split stitch.

I traced the heraldic design out in  pencil, and worked the piece in a hoop

I had an earlier attempt at the design but was unhappy with the stitching and texture of the thread

Adding in the details of the 'weasels'

Blocking the panel

Adding tacked lines as a sewing guide

Stitching the ermines 

Backing the piece with felt and adding twill tape belt loops

I added a band of purple trim around the edge to finish it off