Maroon Balzo

 I recently finished this balzo. It was an easy make, but sewing all the little beads on took quite a long time.

Construction is relatively simple; make a long fabric tube big enough to go around your head and allow ease and add about an inch/2.5cm extra on each end (this is to allow for the end to be turned under).

Stuff the tube with fibrefill or pillow stuffing until it is moderately stiff but still flexible enough to bend around your head.

Turn the end of one end of the tube under and pin it over the other end, creating a donut shape. Pin securely. Try it on to make sure it fits. Adjust if necessary, and hand sew the opening securely closed.

Next, you are going to use the donut as a pattern for the lid. There are hats like this which are just the donut shape, but I prefer the covered sort to protect from scalp sunburn.

Using a large piece of wrapping paper or old sheet etc, cut out the rough shape of the donut leaving about 5cm extra all the way around. We are aiming to cut out a lid shape.

Put the lid shape toile over the donut to make sure it will fit, and that there is enough fabric to turn a hem under. Make any adjustments necessary and then cut out your fashion fabric.

Hand sew the 'lid' onto the donut, turning a hem under as you go. You don't want it drum tight; there should be a little bit of ease as the lid will sit against the back of your head/hair.

Add trims as desired.

This particular balzo was inspired by this portrait below:

'Portrait of a Lady with a G*psy' by the Italian School, 15th C

Image from: ://www.mutualart.com/Artwork/PORTRAIT-OF-A-LADY-WITH-A-GYPSY/05D83263A5F30FD8

Italian School, 15th Century | PORTRAIT OF A LADY WITH A GYPSY | MutualArt

But there are many similar ones to be seen in portraiture from the sixteenth century, including this one: 

Vincenzo Pagani (1490-1568) - Annunciation (1532) - Palazzo Ducale Urbino - Galleria Nazionale delle Marche, image found via: //au.pinterest.com/pin/1337074878802655/

Future Challenge - Blue Brocade

 Here's an idea I had for a future challenge for myself: I found this gorgeous remnant at an op shop (thrift store) for about $1.50. It looks like it has been trimmed off the bottom of a curtain; it is quite narrow and has a hem on the bottom.

Will I be able to make a pair of detachable sleeves out of it? Stay tuned...

RHCC: Layer One (Detachable Sleeves) - Complete

 The first official layer - Accessories - of my entry into the River Haven Clothing Challenge is complete.

Two pairs of tie-on sleeves down; one undergarment layer and one outer layer still to go.

RHCC: Layer One (Detachable Sleeves) - Blue Sleeves

I used my existing sleeve pattern and cut the blue fabric and cotton lining. I machine zig zag stitched the edges and then sewed up the seam that runs down the back of the arm on both the blue fashion fabric and the lining. I stab stitched the arm back sleeve open on lining and fashion layers.

I put the right sides of the lining and fashion fabric tubes together (with a lot of double checking to make sure I was sewing the correct pieces) and machine stitched around the top of the armscye. I then clipped the curves to make sure the top of the sleeve would sit nicely and not be bulky, and then I turned it all right side out. I whip stitched around the top edge of the sleeve to make sure that the lining didn't roll out at any stage. I embroidered an 'L' inside the left sleeve to make dressing in a hurry easier.

I marked 1.5cm seam allowance on the fashion fabric and turned the hem under at the wrist and stab stitched it down. (I also stab stitched my finger a couple of times.)

I turned the lining hem up inside the sleeve slightly more (around 1.75cm) and whip stitched that into place. There were a couple of spots where I clipped a little triangle where the fabric was a bit tight and pulling. I used to sew the hem and lining together in one step, but I found that often the lining and fashion fabric would stretch at different rates and sometimes the lining would start to poke out a bit, so now I hem the two layers seperately.

  

The final step after pressing the hem with an iron was to mark and sew five eyelets in each sleeve head. I opened the fabric up with an awl, went around the hole with a double running stitch and then enclosed the hole with a ring of satin stitch.

I think this fabric might be digitally printed. I have never worked with fabric like this before. I noticed that a part of the design seems to have lifted where a pin stuck it.

RHCC: Layer One (Detachable Sleeves) - Cream Sleeves

If you have been following me for any length of time, you would know that I love Renaissance accessories, and I love the flexibility that tie-on sleeves provide. It won't come as a shock that I have been working on the 'Accessories' layer of the River Haven Clothing Challenge.

I'd love to do all accessories, but my plan is to start with two pairs of detachable sleeves.

My sleeve fabric

I used my trusty old sleeve pattern and cut into the cream fabric first. I also cut the cotton lining. I zig zag stitched by machine around all the edges and then sewed up the seam that runs down the back of the arm on both the fashion fabric and the lining.

  
I trimmed one side of the seam overhang on the fashion fabric main seam and tucked the other side under and sewed it down to enclose the raw edges. I also stab stitched the seams of the lining flat to reduce bulk.

  

I put the right sides of the lining and fashion fabric tubes together (with a lot of double checking to make sure I was sewing the correct pieces) and machine stitched around the top of the armscye. I then clipped the curves to make sure the top of the sleeve would sit nicely and not be bulky, and then I turned it all right side out. I whip stitched around the top edge of the sleeve to make sure that the lining didn't roll out at any stage.

At this point I quickly embroidered an 'L' inside the left sleeve on the lining to help save time when lacing on sleeves on busy event days.

I marked 1.5cm seam allowance on the fashion fabric and turned the hem under at the wrist and stab stitched it down. Then I turned the lining hem up inside the sleeve slightly more (around 1.75cm) and whip stitched that into place. There were a couple of spots where I clipped a little triangle where the fabric was a bit tight and pulling. I once used to sew the hem and lining together in one step, but I found that often the lining and fashion fabric would stretch at different rates and sometimes the lining would start to poke out a bit.

The final step after pressing the hem with an iron was to mark and sew five eyelets in each sleeve head. I opened the fabric up with an awl, went around the hole with a double running stitch and then enclosed the hole with a ring of satin stitch.

This sleeve pattern is nice and roomy. I have seen slightly more narrow sleeves as well as wider ones in portraits from the 1530s-1550s, so there does seem some leeway in designs.

Image from: mid-1530s Paris Bordone - Portrait of a Lady with... (tumblr.com)

I love this portrait of Lady with a Boy by Paris Bordogne. 

The dress is the style I like to wear and her sleeves are beautiful; I'd love the whole outfit. I do wonder if a single fastening on that cut-away style of sleeve is practical for someone who doesn't have a maid to do her lifting and carrying, however. (It may also just be artistic licence on the part of Bordogne.) Hopefully I will have time in the future to play around with my pattern and possibly modify it slightly to try and achieve the general look of that sleeve, but with a stronger attachment point.

Pale Blue Tie-on Sleeves in the Italian Style

Another pair of sleeves complete and out of the UFO pile! This pair is made from a light blue brocade type fabric that I found in a remnant bin at a thrift store and is based on the Italian tie-on style.

The camera has was washed the colour out a bit:

The sleeves were created in the same way as outlined in my previous post. 

As usual, the eyelets were what was holding me up.

I've embroidered an 'L' on the left sleeve because I always seem to be in a rush when it is time for events, and nothing wastes more time or adds more stress than struggling into a big dress only to find out you laced your sleeves on wrong - and then have to struggle back out of it, unlace them and then re-lace them on the correct sleeves. Ask me how I know, haha.

Calontir Clothing Challenge - October Update (Post 3)

 

  I haven’t been able to give the Challenge as much time as I may have liked in this first month as I have had other SCA commitments. My plan has been to make a mid-sixteenth century Italian noble lady’s ensemble. I had real difficulty deciding on a specific gown to base my outfit around, and I have already had to change my plans once as a dye job did not turn out quite as I had hoped.

My sleeve fabrics and possible alternative gown fabric.

These factors have made me feel less enthusiastic than I otherwise might be about the project, and have caused a lot of doubt and second-guessing.

To help overcome this, I cut out and sewed a partlet.

While a partlet is not one of the main 4 items required for the Challenge, I feel that it is very important for the mid-sixteenth century Italian aesthetic.

 

I have an existing pattern that I used for the partlet. I cut it out of linen fabric and then used the sewing machine to do a small zig zag stitch around all the edges of the cut fabric. Then I machine sewed the shoulder and side seams, enclosing the seam.

Next I flattened the seam and used a small whip stitch to secure it. Then I hemmed all the edges with a small folded hem. I prefer the folded hem to a rolled hem because it tends to sit flatter under the other layers. 

I haven’t decorated the partlet yet. The decoration style and whether or not a collar will be added depends on which style I eventually decide to do.

 

I also managed to get a pair of sleeves cut out of fashion fabric. I could not find a nice lining fabric to suit it, so that part will have to wait. I will decide what decoration (if any) will be added when I make a final decision on the dress style that I want to do.  I'm not sure I want to do a recreation of a specific gown - more a blending of design elements from several similar portraits – but there are two main Italian styles that I like, and that I need to choose between.

I've also adapted a bodice pattern in preparation for cutting out a gown, and adapted a coat pattern and cut out the fashion fabric.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Again, I haven’t cut the lining out yet. There are two reasons unlined for warmer weather, and b) I don’t have anything light and suitable that doesn’t have synthetics in it. (The outer ‘fashion’ fabric has some synthetic in it, but I am trying not to add to it. Synthetics are a fire risk, make you sweat more, make you warmer and are not authentic for the sixteenth century. Since I have a tiny budget, I have to make do with what I can afford, but I’d prefer not to have more synthetics than absolutely necessary.)

I have to decide which side of the coat fabric will work better.

Next month I plan to focus on making up the coat and deciding whether or not to add sleeves. I'd like to work on the gown in December.

 

Calontir Clothing Challenge (Post 2)

Amusingly (after being very excited and enthusiastic in the lead up to the start date), this Challenge seems to have me paralysed with doubt and uncertainty. I haven't been feeling very well either, which doesn't help, and I have a lot of other SCA commitments. All combing to be the Perfect Storm of Getting Nothing Done.

I did manage to get a pair of sleeves cut out (just the fashion fabric part), and a linen partlet cut out. Ive sewed up and enclosed the side seams but haven't hemmed it yet. I need to decide how to decorate it (the fun part!) but the design I go with will depend on the final design I pick for the dress. I'm not sure I want to do a recreation of a specific gown, more a blending of design elements from several similar portraits.

Calontir Clothing Challenge (Post 1)

 

Today is the first day of the Calontir Clothing Challenge, and I have decided to have a go. I can't really give it a lot of attention until I hand over an SCA Officer position later in the month, but I have been working out what I am planning to do.

My plan is to make a mid-sixteenth century Italian noblewoman's ensemble. Making a decision on exactly which gown to make has been difficult. I will post some inspiration pictures later on.

I've already changed my plans for fabric as my original fabric did not take dye well. I have a nice patterned cotton for the main gown and some linen blend fabric for sleeves. The sleeve fabric was purchased for the previous (darker) fabric. Hopefully it will work! I usually wear darker colours, so this will be a departure from the norm for me.

Comfy purple tie-on sleeves

 Last month I was chatting to a friend about how we might previously have thought that a global pandemic (and subsequent SCA shut-down) would be a great time to catch up on projects and get things done, and how surprised we were by how tired and unmotivated we were. We decided that we would try and motivate each other and challenged ourselves to complete a pair of sleeves each in a month.

The first step was the pattern. I had a nice comfy one that needed a bit of a tweak, but my friend didn't have a pattern. We had a fun Zoom session with me trying to help her draft a pattern by draping.

Next step was cutting out. I was lucky that I had some fabric set aside to make a set of sleeves. Two lots actually, which was lucky because I was tired when I cut the first pair out and I cut out two left sleeves. Ugh! I know better, but if I didn't do any cutting or sewing when tired, I would be getting even less done than I am now.

Take 2 and the sleeves were cut out along with a matching lining. I ran a machine zig-zag stitch around the edges and then sewed the seam.

 

Then I finger pressed the seams open and ran a little stab stitch along the inside to keep them open. 

(I cut this pattern wrong which is why the edges at the the of the seam don't match up. I trimmed it later.) 

 

I always find the next part tricky so I put the lining inside the sleeve the way it is supposed to look when finished, put a pin in at the top of the sleeve, and then turn the lining inside out. Then I pin around the top edge and machine sew it. I clip the curves so it sits better, and then turn right side out. Hopefully all the seams are hidden inside! Then I push a bone folder or blunt knitting needle along the seam from the inside so that nothing is tucked up, and then do a whip stitch along the top edge to stop the lining from rolling out with wear.

I lay the sleeve flat and pin the outer sleeve (fashion fabric) hem. It is important here to make sure that the inner lining is nice and smooth too with no bumps or folds. I use tiny stab stitch to sew it in place. Then I fold the lining hem under, leaving about 3 mm of the sleeve showing. I used to just marry the two edges together, but I was finding that the lining would often start to bubble out slightly after a bit of wear, especially if the lining was a different type or thickness of fabric.

At this point, the sleeve is ready for eyelets. I use eyelets because my Italian style gowns have a series of ties inside the top of the armhole. In period, it is more likely that a single lace was used on sleeves where visible ribbons or buttons weren't used, but I find multiple ties are very handy because I can take my sleeves off for pack-down at events when it starts to get a bit warm in garb. Honestly, at this stage of sleeve-making I usually mark out the holes for the eyelets and then put the sleeve in the To-Do pile indefinitely because I hate eyelets. (Hence the wisdom in doing the challenge with a friend.)

My eyelet holes correspond to where the ties on my dresses are. I make 5 eyelets (or sets of eyelets) which gives me some options with lacing. (With some pairs of sleeves, I only use 3 sets of laces and tuck the other two down inside the sleeves.) Having no ladies maid, fluctuating weight, and usually no-one to help me dress, my clothing has to be versatile.

This lot of eyelets is not the best that I have done, mainly because I haven't done any in so long and because I was rushing. But they work fine, and I got them done in a night. I actually wore the sleeves to a virtual online event. It was nice to be back in garb again and I was happy to have finished them. I like my 'comfy' sleeve pattern because it is not restrictive, unlike some of my tighter sleeves.