Red-Gilt Tie On Sleeve in the Italian Renaissance Style

I finished another pair of sleeves this week, and boy! are they pretty. The fabric was purchased from etsy several years ago. A miscellaneous fibre content includes gilt threads. They were sold as silk brocade but I would be very surprised if they actually contain silk.

I'm very pleased with these sleeves. Eyelets are still very hard on my hands but I am getting faster at working them.

I made these sleeves to the same pattern and in the same way as the others I have blogged about recently. The lining is purple broadcloth.

Putting a small running stitch along the inside of the top edge to stop the lining rolling out with wear.

Hemming the sleeves. I sewed down the fashion fabric hem with tiny stitches, and then hemmed the lining separately.

Working the eyelets. (I've added an L for Left to save time getting ready before events.)

The finished product. The pictures fail to capture the richness of the fabric.

Calontir Clothing Challenge - October Update (Post 3)

 

  I haven’t been able to give the Challenge as much time as I may have liked in this first month as I have had other SCA commitments. My plan has been to make a mid-sixteenth century Italian noble lady’s ensemble. I had real difficulty deciding on a specific gown to base my outfit around, and I have already had to change my plans once as a dye job did not turn out quite as I had hoped.

My sleeve fabrics and possible alternative gown fabric.

These factors have made me feel less enthusiastic than I otherwise might be about the project, and have caused a lot of doubt and second-guessing.

To help overcome this, I cut out and sewed a partlet.

While a partlet is not one of the main 4 items required for the Challenge, I feel that it is very important for the mid-sixteenth century Italian aesthetic.

 

I have an existing pattern that I used for the partlet. I cut it out of linen fabric and then used the sewing machine to do a small zig zag stitch around all the edges of the cut fabric. Then I machine sewed the shoulder and side seams, enclosing the seam.

Next I flattened the seam and used a small whip stitch to secure it. Then I hemmed all the edges with a small folded hem. I prefer the folded hem to a rolled hem because it tends to sit flatter under the other layers. 

I haven’t decorated the partlet yet. The decoration style and whether or not a collar will be added depends on which style I eventually decide to do.

 

I also managed to get a pair of sleeves cut out of fashion fabric. I could not find a nice lining fabric to suit it, so that part will have to wait. I will decide what decoration (if any) will be added when I make a final decision on the dress style that I want to do.  I'm not sure I want to do a recreation of a specific gown - more a blending of design elements from several similar portraits – but there are two main Italian styles that I like, and that I need to choose between.

I've also adapted a bodice pattern in preparation for cutting out a gown, and adapted a coat pattern and cut out the fashion fabric.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Again, I haven’t cut the lining out yet. There are two reasons unlined for warmer weather, and b) I don’t have anything light and suitable that doesn’t have synthetics in it. (The outer ‘fashion’ fabric has some synthetic in it, but I am trying not to add to it. Synthetics are a fire risk, make you sweat more, make you warmer and are not authentic for the sixteenth century. Since I have a tiny budget, I have to make do with what I can afford, but I’d prefer not to have more synthetics than absolutely necessary.)

I have to decide which side of the coat fabric will work better.

Next month I plan to focus on making up the coat and deciding whether or not to add sleeves. I'd like to work on the gown in December.

 

Calontir Clothing Challenge (Post 1)

 

Today is the first day of the Calontir Clothing Challenge, and I have decided to have a go. I can't really give it a lot of attention until I hand over an SCA Officer position later in the month, but I have been working out what I am planning to do.

My plan is to make a mid-sixteenth century Italian noblewoman's ensemble. Making a decision on exactly which gown to make has been difficult. I will post some inspiration pictures later on.

I've already changed my plans for fabric as my original fabric did not take dye well. I have a nice patterned cotton for the main gown and some linen blend fabric for sleeves. The sleeve fabric was purchased for the previous (darker) fabric. Hopefully it will work! I usually wear darker colours, so this will be a departure from the norm for me.

Tunics, tunics, tunics!

I've been sick again this week, but where possible I have been working on the suite of tunics for the Baron.

It is also getting quite chilly here, so I am thinking about cold weather clothing. I often have a low grade fever, so I don't have a large amount of warm weather clothing. Since coming off of one of my medications about eighteen months ago I have been almost continuously sick with infections -including chest infections. So a cloak or shoulder cloak with a nice fur collar seems like a sensible item to have in the wardrobe.

Last year I experimented with dyeing an old blanket. The plan was to achieve some blue wool, but I ended up with a pale purpley-grey colour. I cut out a short circle cloak from it and lined it in some very bright pink linen, and left it to hang.
It has been hanging for a looong time! Time to finish it off so I can use it for winter wear. It will be nice to finish off some UFOs that have been hanging around for far too long!

Renaissance Tourney Dress- Cartridge Pleated Skirt

I had a small win this week and finally got the skirt cartridge pleated onto the bodice that I started last November. The dress needs a few tweaks, hemming and a set of sleeves, but I can see light at the end of the tunnel and will get this one finished in time as part of my Franchise/Prowess challenge for the Noble Pilgrimage.

I have been slogging along working on so many things and feeling quite disheartened about being sick and getting things finished in time for the challenge, so this is a big win for the week.

The dress is loosely based on Vincenzo Campi's portrait of The Fishmongers, so I will be making a set of red sleeves (and hopefully later down the track, that delightful partlet.)

Image from: http://www.wga.hu/art/c/campi/vincenzo/4fishmon.jpg

Noble Pilgrimage - February Update

Image source: http://media.web.britannica.com/eb-media/14/125114-004-95588444.jpg


Time for an update on how the Pilgrimage challenge has been going.
It has been a busy month. I have been sick, and there has been lots of plodding along and not much being actually finished. These sorts of months can be discouraging and I try to remember that soon I will get to a stage where, with just a little bit more effort (and better health), I will start seeing a lot of things successfully completed.

I have also had two garbed events recently; it has been nice to get back into the swing of regular SCA events again.

I have had to let people know that I can't accept any new projects prior to July 2016, because I have too much on my plate now and I am starting to feel quite stressed, especially after losing so much time to illness.


Prowess:

* Learn a new skill - basic leather work
Last month I completed my cutlery bag for feasts. I have cut out a bag to hold scrolls in, but have not yet had time to sew it up.


* Improve my illumination skills - practicing with new designs, painting scroll blanks and developing confidence by "doodling" . I have also completed another AoA blank (illumination only) and have almost completed the next couple of assignments.


* Develop my sewing skills
I am trying new ways of bodice construction and have started a couple of new bodices in different sewing styles. I am also learning more about men's clothing and am making a doublet for a new fencer in our group. Very challenging!


* Develop my embroidery skills
New chemise project for a friend underway, it involves hand hemming, embroidery and a first attempt at insertion stitch.


* Enter more A&S competitions
Siege warfare research and recipe redactions were submitted and well received. This area may have to take a back seat from now on as I have many things for other people to complete and which will take priority over my own interests and projects.

* Try and blog more regularly


Franchise:

* Make badge banner and pole for outside events
- underway
* Make a new hall banner
- underway

* Make a new bottle cover, napkin and cutlery pouch
- cutlery pouch complete
- one napkin complete, 2 more underway.


* New tourney dress
- begun
* New feast dress
-planning complete and materials assembled. Pattern needs to be adapted. I won't start this project until I am more up to date with my other projects, especially items for other people. They take priority.
* Make more accessories
Some sleeves and new headwear- hopefully- if I don't run out of time and energy before the project ends. This challenge is taking a lot out of me.

* Work on cutting out slang and mundane talk
* Try harder to speak nobly
* Read ''The Bard's English'' - completed
* Work on moving more gracefully, and work on posture
* **Continue with existing projects and commitments - ongoing. Completed a scroll personalisation, illumination on 3 AoA scrolls, embroidered napkin for a friend, WCoB presentation piece, finished a banner device, working on tablecloth project, continuing to help with projects and teach.
Completed this month:

Piety

* Continue teaching classes
* Continue with regular service projects: device banner, mouse pouches, award cords, Baronial projects, scribe work etc.
* Run an event (not sure if I will be able to do this prior to July as the event schedule is very full. May have to hold it later in the year.)
* Make Primus Agmen award pouches
* Learn the duties of a Lady in Waiting
I recently stepped up as Lady in Waiting to my Baroness. What a huge step. )I didn't actually die from terror or fall over in court [YET] so I think that is a very promising start!)
* Help people with individual projects
- embroidery project for a friend: complete
- jerkin for a friend- underway
-fencing doublet - underway

Largesse

* Continue teaching garb skills
* Make more effort to chat to newcomers at events and training
* Try harder to make people feel relaxed, welcome and comfortable
Keeping an eye on newcomers and staying in touch electronically so that they know what to bring to events etc.
* Donate coffee and cake money to charity at least twice a month
- making regular donations
* Make largesse items for Gift Box
- making more jewelery




Prudence 

* Re-read Knowne World Handbook
* Read The Treasure of the City of Ladies
I must admit, this one is hard going- especially when there are so many tempting books from the period to read
*  Re-read A&S Handbook - done
* Read "At The Court of The Borgia" by Johann Burchard - underway
* Try to learn more about combat
- trying to learn more about rapier and heavy by chatting to fighters and paying more at training, reading social media posts and internet information on this area


Courtesy

* Work on shyness and awkwardness - this will be an ongoing consideration, I think.
* Make an effort to speak to people I don't know/well
* Introduce myself to strangers: working on this
* Learn to accept compliments graciously
* Learn to ask for help: I have done this a few times in the last month
* Stop avoiding Peers and Pointy Hats: working on this
* Write more recommendations for worthy individuals
* Write a resume of SCA achievements to help develop confidence within the game
- almost done!

Early Modern Clothes in the GNM

An interesting site showing early modern clothes at the German National Museum

http://www.gnm.de/index.php?id=182

Images from the site are below:

Dark brown silk velvet doublet, c. 1600

Portrait of Clara Praun (1565-1638) by Lorenz Strauch

Some horsey pics to celebrate Melbourne Cup Day

As it is Melbourne Cup Day here in Australia, I had to post some horse-related pictures!

Tudor Horse and Rider 

from: bloggingshakespeare.com

Portrait of Anne of Denmark with horse and hounds

1617 by Paul van Somer

from: http://thedreamstress.com/2012/08/rate-the-dress-anne-of-denmark-with-horse-and-hound/

There still some noticeably Elizabethan influences in Anne's garb, including the ruff and cuffs.

The Family of Henry VII with St George and the Dragon

The Royal Collection 2011/Bridgeman Art Library

from: https://www.artfinder.com/work/the-family-of-henry-vii-with-st-george-and-the-dragon/

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Study of a horse for 'the Battle of Anghiari' by Leonardo da Vinci

The Royal Collection 2011/Bridgeman Art Library

from: https://www.artfinder.com/work/studies-of-horses-and-soldiers-for-the-battle-of-anghiari-leonar/

“Queen Margarita on Horseback” wearing La Peregrina, by Valasquez, 1634-35, Collection Prado Museum

from: http://timelessrhapsody.wordpress.com/2009/01/29/queen-mary-versus-elizabeth-taylor-la-peregrina/

(It is interesting to note how much this costume, painted in 1634-5, resembles Spanish costume of the 1590's, especially when compared to the Anne of Denmark portrait above.)

A horse and Elizabeth I on horseback, unattributed woodcuts or engravings

from:  http://www.elizabethan.org/compendium/87.html

"Queen Isabel on Horseback" wearing La Peregrina, by Valasquez
1634-35, Collection Prado Museum

from: http://www.karipearls.com/la-peregrina-pearl.html

A Costume Design for a Masquerader on Horseback by Leonardo da Vinci

The Royal Collection 

from: http://www.artinmuseum.com/a-costume-design-for-a-masquerader-on-horseback-leonardo-da-vinci/

The Funeral Procession of Elizabeth I

from: blog.londonconnection.com