Pale Blue Tie-on Sleeves in the Italian Style

Another pair of sleeves complete and out of the UFO pile! This pair is made from a light blue brocade type fabric that I found in a remnant bin at a thrift store and is based on the Italian tie-on style.

The camera has was washed the colour out a bit:

The sleeves were created in the same way as outlined in my previous post. 

As usual, the eyelets were what was holding me up.

I've embroidered an 'L' on the left sleeve because I always seem to be in a rush when it is time for events, and nothing wastes more time or adds more stress than struggling into a big dress only to find out you laced your sleeves on wrong - and then have to struggle back out of it, unlace them and then re-lace them on the correct sleeves. Ask me how I know, haha.

Comfy purple tie-on sleeves

 Last month I was chatting to a friend about how we might previously have thought that a global pandemic (and subsequent SCA shut-down) would be a great time to catch up on projects and get things done, and how surprised we were by how tired and unmotivated we were. We decided that we would try and motivate each other and challenged ourselves to complete a pair of sleeves each in a month.

The first step was the pattern. I had a nice comfy one that needed a bit of a tweak, but my friend didn't have a pattern. We had a fun Zoom session with me trying to help her draft a pattern by draping.

Next step was cutting out. I was lucky that I had some fabric set aside to make a set of sleeves. Two lots actually, which was lucky because I was tired when I cut the first pair out and I cut out two left sleeves. Ugh! I know better, but if I didn't do any cutting or sewing when tired, I would be getting even less done than I am now.

Take 2 and the sleeves were cut out along with a matching lining. I ran a machine zig-zag stitch around the edges and then sewed the seam.

 

Then I finger pressed the seams open and ran a little stab stitch along the inside to keep them open. 

(I cut this pattern wrong which is why the edges at the the of the seam don't match up. I trimmed it later.) 

 

I always find the next part tricky so I put the lining inside the sleeve the way it is supposed to look when finished, put a pin in at the top of the sleeve, and then turn the lining inside out. Then I pin around the top edge and machine sew it. I clip the curves so it sits better, and then turn right side out. Hopefully all the seams are hidden inside! Then I push a bone folder or blunt knitting needle along the seam from the inside so that nothing is tucked up, and then do a whip stitch along the top edge to stop the lining from rolling out with wear.

I lay the sleeve flat and pin the outer sleeve (fashion fabric) hem. It is important here to make sure that the inner lining is nice and smooth too with no bumps or folds. I use tiny stab stitch to sew it in place. Then I fold the lining hem under, leaving about 3 mm of the sleeve showing. I used to just marry the two edges together, but I was finding that the lining would often start to bubble out slightly after a bit of wear, especially if the lining was a different type or thickness of fabric.

At this point, the sleeve is ready for eyelets. I use eyelets because my Italian style gowns have a series of ties inside the top of the armhole. In period, it is more likely that a single lace was used on sleeves where visible ribbons or buttons weren't used, but I find multiple ties are very handy because I can take my sleeves off for pack-down at events when it starts to get a bit warm in garb. Honestly, at this stage of sleeve-making I usually mark out the holes for the eyelets and then put the sleeve in the To-Do pile indefinitely because I hate eyelets. (Hence the wisdom in doing the challenge with a friend.)

My eyelet holes correspond to where the ties on my dresses are. I make 5 eyelets (or sets of eyelets) which gives me some options with lacing. (With some pairs of sleeves, I only use 3 sets of laces and tuck the other two down inside the sleeves.) Having no ladies maid, fluctuating weight, and usually no-one to help me dress, my clothing has to be versatile.

This lot of eyelets is not the best that I have done, mainly because I haven't done any in so long and because I was rushing. But they work fine, and I got them done in a night. I actually wore the sleeves to a virtual online event. It was nice to be back in garb again and I was happy to have finished them. I like my 'comfy' sleeve pattern because it is not restrictive, unlike some of my tighter sleeves.

UFOs - Sleeve Pile

One of my current challenges is to go through my UnFinished Object pile and prioritise everything,  and to start working through tasks. I still have a large pile of sleeves cut out and waiting to be sewn, so this is something I will be working on over the next several months.

Red and Gold Tie-On Sleeves Made From A Sari

I made these sleeves last year as a bit of an experiment. I found a child's tunic made from a sari in a local thrift shop, and loved the fabric. Although a modern fabric, it did not look jarringly modern, and I felt that it would make a nice pair of detachable sleeves.

I carefully washed and dried the tunic. Unpicking it was challenging as the fabric is delicate and has gilt metal threads through it. I would not be surprised if it is a silk or silk blend fabric. The garment had obviously had several adjustments for a growing child, and there were interesting tucks and joins all over the tunic.

I also removed the trim which was pretty but very much the worse for wear.

Once the fabric pieces had been carefully pressed, I positioned my sleeve pattern so that the pattern was facing the same way on both sleeves while trying to avoid any holes or damaged areas.

Cutting the wine coloured cotton lining fabric was much easier; no patterns or mends to worry about.

I usually don't use my fashion fabric as a pattern, but I was in a big hurry for this project.

Once the sleeves and linings were cut out, I edged them with zigzag stitch to reduce fraying. I then machine sewed the seams, and finger pressed the inside of the sleeves open. I hand sewed the seams open with tiny, hidden stitches. I then put the lining and sleeve together inside out.

This is always a step that I have trouble with. I just can't seem to visually 'get' how they are supposed to go, so I usually baste or safety pin along where the seam will be prior to sewing, and then turn them right way out to make sure the insides of the seams are hidden and the fashion fabric is outside and facing the right way with everything looking correct. Only then do I turn it back inside out, pin and sew. After another double-check, I clip the curves on the armscye and then turn the sleeve the right way out.

I usually baste or pin around the shoulder part of the sleeve to make sure it is sitting right and then I work the eyelet holes. This is a job that I detest as it is very painful for my fingers. I usually can only do one or two holes a day.

When I had the eyelets done, I hemmed the wrist area. I turned the fashion fabric up first, and stitched it down with tiny hidden stitches. Then I pinned the lining into place, slightly shorter than the outer fashion fabric hem. (This stops the lining from rolling out.) I then stitched the lining wrist hem down.

I think I paid around $4AU for the sari tunic. It is delicate and probably won't last too many wears, but I was happy with how the sleeves turned out and I thought it was a worthwhile experiment at a good price.