Red Underskirt

I recently made a red underskirt as part of my outfit for the Riverhaven Costuming Challenge.

I chose to use cotton broadcloth due to budget constraints; linen or wool (even silk) would have been more appropriate, but much more costly.

I sewed rectangular panels together, leaving a gap at the centre sides open, which I hand hemmed. I also hand felled the side seams.

I added a tiny buttonhole bar at each side seam for extra strength.

Double felled side seams.

I pleated the front and back panels into separate waistbands by hand using cartridge pleats. Once the pleats were sewn in, I released the gathering stitches to allow a more relaxed pleat. I hand hemmed the bottom of the panels, and added decorative twill tape.

I used the same twill tape as ties for the skirt. The front and back ties are tied independently (as seen on petticoats in the Tudor Tailor book) to allow for greater adjustment.

I'm happy with how the garment turned out, but it is a little bit long. When I get time, I will add a kickpleat/hemtuck all the way around to take up some of the excess. I regularly do this with my gowns as it helps to hold the hem out and give the skirt some structure. It also can be seen as on some sixteenth century portraits.

Cross and Pearl Necklace

I finished another quick project recently; a necklace to go with the outfit that I have been making for the River Haven Clothing Challenge.

I have had the silver and glass pendant for a few years. I strung it on tiger tail wire with small baroque pearls and glass beads harvested from a thrifted necklace. I have trouble with my hands/fingers, so the hook and bar closure is a lot easier for me to put on and off. Silver crimps secure the ends of the wire.

RHCC: Layer One (Detachable Sleeves) - Complete

 The first official layer - Accessories - of my entry into the River Haven Clothing Challenge is complete.

Two pairs of tie-on sleeves down; one undergarment layer and one outer layer still to go.

RHCC: Layer One (Detachable Sleeves) - Blue Sleeves

I used my existing sleeve pattern and cut the blue fabric and cotton lining. I machine zig zag stitched the edges and then sewed up the seam that runs down the back of the arm on both the blue fashion fabric and the lining. I stab stitched the arm back sleeve open on lining and fashion layers.

I put the right sides of the lining and fashion fabric tubes together (with a lot of double checking to make sure I was sewing the correct pieces) and machine stitched around the top of the armscye. I then clipped the curves to make sure the top of the sleeve would sit nicely and not be bulky, and then I turned it all right side out. I whip stitched around the top edge of the sleeve to make sure that the lining didn't roll out at any stage. I embroidered an 'L' inside the left sleeve to make dressing in a hurry easier.

I marked 1.5cm seam allowance on the fashion fabric and turned the hem under at the wrist and stab stitched it down. (I also stab stitched my finger a couple of times.)

I turned the lining hem up inside the sleeve slightly more (around 1.75cm) and whip stitched that into place. There were a couple of spots where I clipped a little triangle where the fabric was a bit tight and pulling. I used to sew the hem and lining together in one step, but I found that often the lining and fashion fabric would stretch at different rates and sometimes the lining would start to poke out a bit, so now I hem the two layers seperately.

  

The final step after pressing the hem with an iron was to mark and sew five eyelets in each sleeve head. I opened the fabric up with an awl, went around the hole with a double running stitch and then enclosed the hole with a ring of satin stitch.

I think this fabric might be digitally printed. I have never worked with fabric like this before. I noticed that a part of the design seems to have lifted where a pin stuck it.

RHCC: Layer One (Detachable Sleeves) - Cream Sleeves

If you have been following me for any length of time, you would know that I love Renaissance accessories, and I love the flexibility that tie-on sleeves provide. It won't come as a shock that I have been working on the 'Accessories' layer of the River Haven Clothing Challenge.

I'd love to do all accessories, but my plan is to start with two pairs of detachable sleeves.

My sleeve fabric

I used my trusty old sleeve pattern and cut into the cream fabric first. I also cut the cotton lining. I zig zag stitched by machine around all the edges and then sewed up the seam that runs down the back of the arm on both the fashion fabric and the lining.

  
I trimmed one side of the seam overhang on the fashion fabric main seam and tucked the other side under and sewed it down to enclose the raw edges. I also stab stitched the seams of the lining flat to reduce bulk.

  

I put the right sides of the lining and fashion fabric tubes together (with a lot of double checking to make sure I was sewing the correct pieces) and machine stitched around the top of the armscye. I then clipped the curves to make sure the top of the sleeve would sit nicely and not be bulky, and then I turned it all right side out. I whip stitched around the top edge of the sleeve to make sure that the lining didn't roll out at any stage.

At this point I quickly embroidered an 'L' inside the left sleeve on the lining to help save time when lacing on sleeves on busy event days.

I marked 1.5cm seam allowance on the fashion fabric and turned the hem under at the wrist and stab stitched it down. Then I turned the lining hem up inside the sleeve slightly more (around 1.75cm) and whip stitched that into place. There were a couple of spots where I clipped a little triangle where the fabric was a bit tight and pulling. I once used to sew the hem and lining together in one step, but I found that often the lining and fashion fabric would stretch at different rates and sometimes the lining would start to poke out a bit.

The final step after pressing the hem with an iron was to mark and sew five eyelets in each sleeve head. I opened the fabric up with an awl, went around the hole with a double running stitch and then enclosed the hole with a ring of satin stitch.

This sleeve pattern is nice and roomy. I have seen slightly more narrow sleeves as well as wider ones in portraits from the 1530s-1550s, so there does seem some leeway in designs.

Image from: mid-1530s Paris Bordone - Portrait of a Lady with... (tumblr.com)

I love this portrait of Lady with a Boy by Paris Bordogne. 

The dress is the style I like to wear and her sleeves are beautiful; I'd love the whole outfit. I do wonder if a single fastening on that cut-away style of sleeve is practical for someone who doesn't have a maid to do her lifting and carrying, however. (It may also just be artistic licence on the part of Bordogne.) Hopefully I will have time in the future to play around with my pattern and possibly modify it slightly to try and achieve the general look of that sleeve, but with a stronger attachment point.

River Haven Clothing Challenge

Sorry about the delayed posting; a hard-to-kill chest infection and corresponding brain fog are making everything that much harder lately.

I have decided to enter the SCA River Haven Clothing Challenge. Here is some information about it-

"Ogres are like onions -they have layers.

And so does this clothing challenge.

THE BASICS:

From 1st October 2023 to 31 March 2024 River Haven will be running a clothing challenge.

The main focus of it is to encourage garb making within members of the group, but there will be prizes. How good will depend on Sponsors (more on that later).

Based loosely on the Calontir Clothing challenge and the IRCC, the challenge is to make an outfit of at least three layers during this time. It can be from any time/place that SCA covers.

Prior to the challenge you can research, source patterns, do mock ups, make toiles, source your fabric and other necessities, but fabric for the outfit itself is not to be cut until 1st October. This is also the date to nominate and put in your plan (late nominations/plans will be accepted, but end date for making the outfit is final.)

There will be check in points on 1 December, 1 February, and 1 April (final date). One layer is to be submitted at each of these. More on processes to come.

There will be three divisions. Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced. Please look honestly at which category most suits your skills and nominate for that one. The three categories will be judged separately."

I am not entering for prizes, more for accountability. I need new garb, but don't enjoy the process so hopefully this will help to motivate me.

I had to start late because I had other deadlines that must take priority, so I am already quite behind.

'Is this wise?' I hear you say. Probably not. :-)

'Is it sensible to take on another project when you are drowning in unfinished projects and battling health issues/starting a new round of appointments with a new specialist?' Also No.