Front-opening bodice with exposed lacing holes

Over the Easter long weekend I have been working on a blue drill dress that I started in about August or September last year. There have been lots of changes to the plan as I work on this dress in dribs and drabs. I re-made a pattern which has straps further off the shoulders and a pointed bodice. I wanted a front lacing dress so that I can dress myself, as often I don't have anyone to help me dress.

I had planned to close the front of the dress with hooks and eyes, but when I basted them in, they didn't seem terribly secure. Because I am big busted, I plan to wear a pair of bodies underneath the dress anyway, but I didn't want to take a chance on the closures opening up when I bend or move. I also considered ladder lacing, but I have not done it before and I need this dress to be finished within a month. So I am planning on doing ladder lacing through eyelets. This is not a very common bodice closure based on what I have seen of period portraiture.

I have a whole roll of some very nice blue and gold trim, so I can 'go to town' with the decoration. The real trouble is making a decision on which way to go with it! I am also unsure about what type of sleeve head decoration to use. I played around with the pattern for several hours this week and am completely fed up with the whole concept of sleeves, so the sleeve head pattern is on the back burner while I work on pleats and eyelets.

Here are some portraits that have been an inspiration to me:



http://starlightmasquerade.com/PortraitGallery/Ladder-Laced-Venetian/inspiration-pages/Venetian8.htm





http://starlightmasquerade.com/PortraitGallery/Ladder-Laced-Venetian/inspiration-pages/Venetian11.htm






http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/58/Judith_with_the_head_of_Holofernes.jpg




http://starlightmasquerade.com/PortraitGallery/Ladder-Laced-Venetian/inspiration-pages/openbodice118.htm



http://starlightmasquerade.com/PortraitGallery/Ladder-Laced-Venetian/inspiration-pages/openbodice7.htm




http://starlightmasquerade.com/PortraitGallery/Ladder-Laced-Venetian/inspiration-pages/openbodice74.htm

First attempt at pewter casting

A couple of weeks ago, I had a 'play' with lead-free pewter. I had read a lot of articles on the internet, but didn't really feel that I had an idea of how a cuttlefish mould would react to the molten metal. My only previous experience of casting had been in childhood -  casting lead fishing sinkers in commercially made moulds with my Dad. 

I roughly carved designs in the cuttlefish shell

Melting the pewter on a gas stove outside (for good ventilation)

The first pour - what a mess!

The result

All in all, it was a useful and valuable experiment. I have a much better idea of how the cuttlefish reacts to carving, how a second cast in the same mould turns out, and the general properties of molten pewter. I am considering other options for making moulds, as the natural variations in the cuttlefish translate into the cast piece.
I am already looking forward to doing more casting!

Tudor Child Exhibition

The Weiss Gallery is having an exhibition of Tudor Children's clothing to celebrate the launch of the Tudor Tailor's new book 'The Tudor Child'.



Details can be found at: http://www.weissgallery.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=149&tabindex=148&postid=11901

Speaking of this exciting new publication, look what arrived on the doorstep last week:

I dropped some pretty big hints about wanting this signed edition of the book for my birthday. I did get to have a sneak peek at a friend's copy. Now I just have to wait. Seven months suddenly seems like a VERY long time!

Op Shop Score

I had a couple of medical appointments last week, and I had to wait a long time for my films to be printed. To kill some time, I went into a local opportunity shop and got some great bargains. It was a discount day too, so I got these brooches for even less than the marked price!

Tudor and Stuart Fashion Exhibition

A new exhibition is coming up; how I would love to see this!

In Fine Style: The Art of Tudor & Stuart Fashion

The Queen's Gallery, Buckingham Palace

Friday, 10 May 2013 to Sunday, 06 October 2013

http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/exhibitions/in-fine-style-the-art-of-tudor-and-stuart-fashion-QGBP

How to Dye Silk Organza from Threads Magazine

Here is a link to Threads Magazine's article on How to Dye Silk Organza:
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/29867/how-to-dye-silk-organza?utm_source=email&utm_medium=eletter&utm_content=20130312-dyeing-silk-organza&utm_campaign=threads-eletter

Rapier Tourney

Yesterday I went to a small rapier tourney in my Barony. It was one of those events where the camaraderie, the pageantry and the courtesy just recharges your SCA batteries. I feel excited and motivated about current and planned projects again!

Coif for a Man

I know that it probably looks like I have had a super-productive week, but in reality it has just been one of those weeks where a lot of smaller projects that I have been working on for weeks have been finished off.

Nevertheless, I am riding high on a wave of personal satisfaction to get a few things off the 'To Do' pile. I think it is probably a law of Nature, or physics (or maybe just Murphy's Law!) that at least as many requests for items/assistance come in as finished items go out, but at least I am never bored. (Or likely to be, in any conceivable lifetime!)

Here is another coif for a man. It is designed as a court-type article, rather than an arming coif (which I believe usually has a gusset in the middle. Given my fear and loathing of gussets, I have not yet attempted one of those.)

This coif is constructed in the same way as the light blue one I posted about earlier. The pattern was cut out of two pieces of cotton linen blend fabric. The edges were zig-zagged to prevent fraying and then the seam up the back was sewn up. I opened the seam out and stab stitched it down on both pieces to reduce bulk. The pieces were then sewn together (inside out) leaving a small gap for turning. Triangles were clipped into the seam allowance to ensure the fabric sat smoothly when turned.

Once the coif was turned right side out, I used a blunt wooden knitting needle to push the seams out. Then I whip stitched over all the edges.

Finally, I sewed a piece of bias binding along the bottom edge. Another was applied to the top, and the long hanging ends were doubled over to make the ties. I added a small line of running stitch in black embroidery thread just to fancy it up.

Since I enjoy hand sewing - and make less mistakes with hand sewing than machine sewing - I added the bias strips by hand.

Rapier Coif

I have been consistently busy for the last few weeks, working on projects (mainly) for other people. Here is another item that I have finally finished (huzzah!)  - a rapier coif for a friend.

Yes, that is an embroidery frame holder serving as a head mannikin. It is a very long coif!

This has been one of those projects that just went wrong at every turn. It has four layers, and all the layers needed to have the seams sewn open to reduce bulk. I whipped the layers together and hand sewed all the bias down. One of the many exciting problems that arose during construction was the bias strip join splitting. Naturally, this happened right at the end of the project! I normally make my own bias, and if I am caught short and have to purchase pre-made bias, I check that the joins are sewn rather than glued. I don't know how this bias slipped through, but slip through it did. I was so disappointed; I had to darn the split and then I added another small piece over for strength.

I am relieved that this one is done, and reasonably pleased with how it turned out.

Man's Blue Linen Coif

I finished this man's coif last week. It is the first time that I have made a coif of this type. I used the machine to sew up the back seam, then hand sewed the seam flat. Then I bagged the coif out, turned it right side out, and then whip stitched over all the edges. Then I hand sewed an ornamental bias strip around the edges, turning the edge of the top strip into ties.

It looks like it has a weird shape in the pictures, but that is because it is sitting on a vase. I am pleased with how it turned out, and I hope that the recipient likes it.

Blue Floral Elizabethan Coif Update

In between other projects I have been working on my blue floral Elizabethan coif. Here is how it is looking:

There is still some seeding to be done. Then I need to decide whether or not I will add spangles. I am also (as an alternative to spangles) considering adding some red or orange highlights.

Project Pics

I have a few new project pics to show, but I am having trouble transferring pictures from my camera.

Food Historian at Minneapolis Institute of Arts

Famed Food Historian to Visit the MIA

"Supper with Shakespeare: The Evolution of English Banqueting"

Reproduction Tudor Quince Marmalade from 

http://www.artsmia.org/index.php?section_id=2&exh_id=4561

Food historian Ivan Day (from shows such as 'Royal Upstairs Downstairs') is recreating historic recipes for the Minneapolis Institute of Art's new exhibition relating to English banqueting history.

Find the details at http://www.artsmia.org/index.php?section_id=2&exh_id=4561

Street Vendor Woodcuts

from http://spitalfieldslife.com/2013/02/21/samuel-pepys-cries-of-london/

This interesting site has some excellent prints of street vendors that may be of interest to costumers. Go to http://spitalfieldslife.com/2013/02/21/samuel-pepys-cries-of-london/

Your Wardrobe Unlock'd Competition Link

If you are after some out of period costuming inspiration, have a look at the Your Wardrobe Unlock'd costuming competition entries for 2013:

http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/competition/2013-competition-entries

First Attempt At Illumination

This week I finished my first try at illumination.The experience reminded me of painting on sugar plate, but the colours are much bolder.

A Dragon from a Bestiary c. 1270 (Therouanne?)
JPGM, Ms. Ludwig XV 3, folio 89
p. 90, 'Beasts' by Elizabeth Morrison, 2007, J Paul Getty Trust


I found the experience to be very enjoyable, and I learned a lot from my first attempt.
* Medieval scribes must have been very patient people with an enormous skill base, tons of patience and steady hands.
* You should not get overexcited and try to rush this type of work. (I know this from embroidery, but I'll admit that I did get overexcited and rush it!)
* Doing scribal work at the kitchen table in a busy household during the afternoon/tea time rush is not ideal.
* I need a finer paintbrush.

I used Winsor and Newton Designers Gouache as recommended by the Lochac Scribes (www.sca.org.au/scribe/   and   http://www.sca.org.au/scribe/handbook/Lochac%20College%20of%20Scribes%20Handbook%202012.pdf)

I am still enthusiastic, and plan to continue practicing in my sketchbook. I love the fact that you can get such a bold and dramatic effect relatively quickly; well, compared to embroidery, anyway. I chose this particular picture because it looks like the original artist used a paintbrush to draw the black lines, and I thought that would be very good practice for me. (Plus, I liked the dragon.) I have a lot of trouble with shaky hands, but I am reasonably happy with how the lines turned out. Learning how to load the brush with an appropriate amount of paint is another thing that I need to learn.

My introduction to the scribal arts has been the very talented Honorable Lady Katerina da Brescia of the Purple Files. You can see some of her work here:
http://katerina.purplefiles.net/art&scribes/C&I.htm

New IRC Challenge Announced

Lovely Lady Bella from Realm of Venus has announced a new Italian Renaissance Costuming Challenge. Head to
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/challenges/IRCC2013/IRCC3-2013.htm
for more information.

I am planning on entering; I am getting organised and working out what I have in my stash - and what I need!

Plimoth Jacket Project link

Here is an interesting page on the gorgeous reproduction of the Plimoth Jacket-
http://www.winterthur.org/?p=972


One day I will make an embroidered jacket for myself.

Unpicking my Italian gown and Elizabethan coat

I started two sewing projects mid to late last year; an Italian front lacing gown (in blue) and an Elizabethan coat (in grey). I worked on them yesterday but I'm afraid my fatigue and brain fog was so bad that I spent more time un-picking and re-sewing and ironing than actually achieving anything. On the plus side, I am getting very good at unpicking!

Illumination research

It was at least 100 degrees today, so no stitching for me. I have piles to do, but mundane life got in the way. I did get a chance to have a look at a couple of illumination books, but I have not yet picked something to do as a scribal exemplar.

Scribal Meeting

I have been thinking about getting involved in my local SCA scribal group for quite a long time. Recently, the meetings were moved closer to my house, and so yesterday I took the opportunity to go to my first meeting. It was very interesting and exciting. I think that calligraphy is a bit beyond my skills at this stage, but I am excited about trying the illumination. The process seems very similar to the design process for embroideries, which I really enjoy. It was a lot of fun to really look closely at the pictures of manuscripts and enjoy the imaginations of those old scribes. This one below really took my fancy:


It illustrates the old riddle about the man trying to get his turnips, his lamb and a wolf across a river in the boat without anyone getting eaten. This is from the thirteenth century- early fourteenth century Ormesby Psalter -
http://ductus.asu.edu/Files/ductus/scriptorium/plates/D-005.html

Yummy OP shoes from American Duchess

As you know, my preferred historical re-creation period is the sixteenth century. But the luscious shoes at American Duchess regularly make me reconsider my choice of time period. Check out their new releases at the link below. (And take a peek at their to-die-for Marie Antoinette shoes while you are there!)

‎"Gibson" Edwardian Shoes, 1900-1920 - Pre-Order February 15, 2013 - March 8, 2013 at http://www.american-duchess.com/edwardian-victorian-shoes-boots

Please share with anyone who may be interested! We're trying to sell 50 pairs of each color. If we don't meet that goal, the least popular colorway will be canceled :-(

Making Buckram from Linen

The Tailor's Apprentice posted this on Facebook yesterday:


A fabulous tip on how to make buckram from the @Abigal's Closet group...

"BUCKRAM.............We always have people ask us about buckram, concerned that they have to have some special textile. In the 18th century buckram was used typically in men's clothing. It gave stiffness and shape especially in things like coats. Provided strength for weak places like button holes, button stand and pleat points. You can make your own buckram with ease. A variety of quality in linens were used. Typically unbleached being the least expensive linen. Get out your scrap bag or buy an extra 1/4 yard next time you get linen from us. The trick is to have a bottle of GUM TRAGACANTH in your stash. (see below link) Slather it on both sides and let it dry. Do as
many layers as you think for the stiffness you require. That's all there is to it. Good Luck!!"

This sounds like a relatively easy process, although gum tragacanth can be hard to get here in South Australia. I have a couple of metres of commercially produced buckram currently in my stash (and would prefer to use my dwindling supplies of gum tragacanth for sugarplate), but if any of the readers have tried this, please let us know your results!

Happy Valentine's Day

This one has been doing the rounds on Facebook:

Bean Boobs

For those of us without a duct-tape dress dummy, here is a great suggestion from American Duchess on how to make a standard dressmaking dummy more 'shapely' in the bust department:
http://americanduchess.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/v185-polonaise-jacket-of-doom-and-hell.html

Costume-based Movie Review Site

Here is a link to Frocktalk, an interesting costume-based movie review site:
http://frocktalk.com/?p=4406



One of Colleen Atwood's designs for the Snow White and the Hunstman Movie
taken from: http://www.100jewelers.net/fashion-advisor/colleen-atwood-designed-snow-white-and-the-huntsman-costumes

Portrait by Catena

Today I was excited to find this portrait (which I had never seen before) of a very high waisted Italian gown. The 'Portrait of a Young Woman' is by Catena (Vincenzo di Biagio) circa 1505.

from: http://theredlist.fr/wiki-2-351-861-414-398-426-view-cinquecento-profile-catena-vincenzo-di-biagio.html

Portrait of Henry VIII

I found this portrait of Henry VIII on Pinterest recently. Not much information was given except for a tentative date of 1535. If this date is correct, it is interesting to see Henry as he looked when Anne Boleyn was in love with him.

The Restoration of Gentileschi’s David and Bathsheba

The restoration of Artemisia Gentileschi’s David and Bathsheba at
http://www.advancingwomenartists.org/unveiling-exhibitions.php

Artemisia in a self-portrait depicting herself as the Allegory of Painting

1638-39

from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Self-portrait_as_the_Allegory_of_Painting_by_Artemisia_Gentileschi.jpg

Richard III Skeleton

(posted on Facebook)

The Fruit Seller - Must Make This!

Oh oh. Another item to add to the 'Must Make This' List. I LOVE that partlet.

And her hair-do.

And, come to think of it, I am pretty keen on that dress too!





The Fruit Seller by Vincenzo Campi - from http://ghpoetryplace.blogspot.com.au/2010/06/cherry-ripe.html

Richard III's remains identified

10:45AM GMT 04 Feb 2013

From:  The Telegraph

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/9846722/Richard-III-remains-found-in-Leicester.html

"Scientists say they have found the 500-year-old remains of England's King Richard III under a parking lot in the city of Leicester.
University of Leicester researchers say tests on a battle-scarred skeleton unearthed last year prove "beyond reasonable doubt" that it is the king, who died at the Battle of Bosworth Field in 1485, and whose remains have been missing for centuries.
"Richard III, the last Plantagenet King of England," has been found," said the university's deputy registrar, Richard Taylor.
Osteologist Jo Appleby said Monday that the study of the bones provided "a highly convincing case for identification of Richard III."
And DNA from the skeleton matches a sample taken from a distant living relative of Richard's sister."

Image of Richard III of England from: news.com.au

The skeleton of Richard III. Photograph: University of Leicester from http://www.guardian.co.uk site.

Find more interviews and news on the subject here:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/science/blog/2013/feb/04/richard-iii-skeleton-last-plantagenet-king-live
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-2201744/King-Richard-III-Search-body-finds-human-remains-grave-stood-1612.html
http://www.news24.com/SciTech/News/Bones-hold-clue-to-King-Richard-III-20121015

High-necked Partlet Silk Embroidered Panel

Recently I finished another collar panel. It was originally intended as a gift, but I made too many mistakes in the stitching to be content to give it away. It will probably end up going on a high necked Elizabethan partlet for me.

The piece is sewn in Guterman silk on white linen. The non-counted blackwork is worked in two strands of silk in a double-running (Holbein) stitch.

The design comes from Modelbuch Aller Art.I traced the original design onto tracing paper and then modified it to fit the panel size that I needed. Then I taped the design to a window and traced it out in dissolvable fabric marker pen. I worked the piece in a hoop.

I am considering whether to add seeding stitches to the insides of the motifs so that the embroidery has more effect.

'Lost' da Vinci Portrait

From - livescience.com October 16, 2011

"Christie's auction house may have sold a priceless piece of art by Leonardo da Vinci for a little more than $21,000, according to researchers who claim to have identified the origins of the hotly debated painting.

The painting appears to have come from a 500-year-old book containing the family history of the Duke of Milan. Art historian Martin Kemp, of the University of Oxford, believes the mystery painting, which appeared in 1998, is a portrait of the duke's daughter, created by da Vinci for her wedding book."

http://www.livescience.com/16549-lost-davinci-portrait.html?fb_action_ids=10151382342652937&fb_action_types=og.recommends&fb_source=other_multiline&action_object_map=%7B%2210151382342652937%22%3A10150412944310090%7D&action_type_map=%7B%2210151382342652937%22%3A%22og.recommends%22%7D&action_ref_map=%5B%5D