Baronial A&S Tablecloth/s

Something I have been concentrating on for the last couple of weeks is making up a new A&S tablecloth for the Barony.

The old A&S tablecloth that I made some time in the 2000s is really showing it's age, and we had some blue tablecloths in storage that were not being used. Someone suggested that they be turned into A&S tablecloths which sounded like a great idea.

I machine-sewed on some white bias binding around the edges of the tablecloth and marked out the candle-in-arch A&S design with a template. I made up some fabric paints using acrylic and textile medium and started to paint. I thought a couple of coats would do it, but each motif ended up needing seven or eight coats because of the composition of the fabric and the way that it soaked up the paint.

The motifs haven't turned out as crisply as I would have liked, but the overall effect is much nicer than the previous tablecloth.

Split Stitch Owl Design

 

I recently had a chance to help a friend with a project for an upcoming ceremony. The project involved split stitching on velvet, which I had never done before.

The texture and pile of the fabric made stitching very different to stitching on cotton or linen, and it took some adjusting to. 

If you are planning an embroidery project on velvet fabric, I would recommend allowing a bit of extra time.

It was a bit of a rush but I am quite happy with how it turned out. The lovely design is by Sir Eva and the owls will be cut out and appliqued onto a garment.

Embroidery Challenge Piece

I recently had the opportunity to present my embroidery challenge piece and it was well received. I thrifted a linen napkin with (what looks like) crochet edging, and used running stitch in silk to embroider a heraldic sea horse. I also added a running stitch around the edge of the napkin.

The theme of the challenge was 'Animals and/or heraldic". I originally planned to do a more elaborately embroidered partlet for the challenge, but this last year has been hectic, so that plan did not come together.

Pearl and Pelican Necklace

The beading bug has obviously bitten me, because this week I did another beading project.

I got some lovely pearls and a pewter pendant from Mistress Kiriel, and this week strung them up on tiger tail wire with some glass rainbow beads. I used a simple ring and bar closure, which is really helpful if you have issues with your hands and wrists.

A very simple, fast and satisfying project!

Beaded Challenge Mementoes

Being a keen embroiderer, I try to run a local embroidery challenge every year or so. The themes vary, but the idea is to provide some motivation to create a new embroidery piece and arrange a forum to display the pieces created. Any skill level is welcomed, and the Challenge hopefully encourages people to participate without any of the pressures of a formal competition.

A lot happened in my local SCA group last year, including one of our members winning Crown, and so people were very busy with other things. The Embroidery Challenge extended into 2023 as a result, and people will finally have a chance to display their work this month. 

I made some small beaded tokens to give to participants as a memento of this year's Challenge. (2022 because the Challenge started last year.)

They are just small beads and a date pendant threaded onto tiger tail wire and secured with a metal crimp. Sounds like an easy make, but cold, shaky hands and beading do not mix well. Needless to say, the task took longer than expected, and I spent almost as much time trying to find and pick up all the beads I dropped before the puppy found and ate them!

Banner Bags

I have a lot of projects on the go at the moment, but I did spend a couple of hours recently making some bags to store some banners for my group. It was a very simple project, but one which really rekindled my enjoyment of crafting because I decided to use potato stamps to put the banner numbers on the bags.

I hadn't used a potato stamp since I was a child (and my skills have not improved since then!) but I really enjoyed it. The results were not great, but boy I had fun with it. 

I must try and get some woodblock stamps in future, and learn about fabric stamping.

'Portrait of a Lady' by Scipione Pulzone

Portrait of a Lady by Scipione Pulzone

(also known as 'Portrait Of A Lady, Half Length, Wearing A Black Velvet And Ermine-Trimmed Dress With A Lace Collar And Head-Shawl' by the Florentine School) - check out that lace veil!

 Image from: WikiGallery.org

Red Velveteen Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves

Sleeves again this week, and boy! am I happy with these! So rich and soft - I love them. I got the velveteen before the quality of cotton velveteen being offered by my local Spotlight dropped, and the fabric is lush.

These were created in the same way as previous iterations: the pattern is my roomy, self-drafted pattern that is super comfortable and very wearable. The centre back seam of velveteen and stash fabric lining was machine sewn and hand felled. Then the pieces were put together, wrong way around, and machine sewn. The arc at the top of the sleeve was clipped, and then the sleeve turned right way out ("bagged out"). I generally choose to do a small whip stitch around the top of the sleeve to stop the lining rolling out with wear, and I did that with these. I usually embroider an 'L' on the left sleeve lining before hemming also, just to help with speedier dressing on those days when I am in a rush or brain foggy.

I hemmed the outer sleeve first, anchoring it with small stab stitches. Then I hemmed the lining; turning the lining under quite a bit more so that it won't show when I move my arms.

The final step is to slog through one of my hated jobs - eyelets. I am getting faster at them, but they are very hard on my sore hands. I generally use 4 strands of waxed sewing thread, and use an awl to make a hole. I then do a double running stitch around the hole and then cover the edges with what is essentially a satin stitch.

I am super happy with this pair of sleeves; they feel so wonderful to touch.

Purple Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves

I'm still working on the UFO pile, and this week's completed item is a pair of Italian style tie-on sleeves in linen. 

They are lined in black cotton remnants, with hand worked eyelets. I had to ease in the linen on one of the sleeves, which has led to a small amount of wrinkling around the wrist on one of the sleeves. Hopefully it will settle with wear, or at least not be noticeable, because I don't feel inspired to unpick the sleeve and lining hem and re-sew the inner seam of the lining (especially since the inner seams on sleeve and linings are felled).

 

Italian Renaissance Hair Jewellery

Yet another hair band, with pieces from two different filigree bracelets sewn onto a velvet ribbon band and backed with grosgrain ribbon to reduce slippage. I used three wig clips on the back for extra security.

Italian Renaissance Hair Jewellery

 Another hair band this week, constructed in the same way as the previous ones. This one has necklace components sewn on to the velvet ribbon. Probably too sparkly to really be appropriate for sixteenth century, but I couldn't resist it!

This one has 2mm seed beads sewn along the edges. I recently saw a beading technique demonstrated on Instagram that might be useful for this sort or project - I will let you know how I go.

Italian Renaissance Hair Jewellery

I recently finished another billament/hair accessory. This one has been sitting around in a half-finished state for literally years because I wasn't super happy with how it looked.

The flower shaped findings came to be with a 'patina' that I wasn't delighted about, and when I made the band up, it just seemed to look a bit shabby and be lacking something. So it sat in the UFO pile for a long time.

I resolved to finish it as part of my recent UFO completion drive, and I added matte gold seed beads (4mm) on the joins between the flat findings, to disguise the stitches and give add a bit of textural variety. I then started sewing the grosgrain ribbon on the back, and added white tiny seed beads as I went. When that was complete, I added three wig clips on the back to hold it in my hair.

It is still not my favourite accessory that I have ever made, but I am pleased that it is finished. Hopefully it will look nice when worn.

 

This image (a detail of Sister Minerva from 'Portrait of the family of the artist' by Sofonisba Anguissola) shows how the band will be worn; either in front of dressed hair such as hair taping, or in front of a caul. Image from: Sofonisba Anguissola Portrait of the family of the artist. Fragment. Sister minerva, 1568, 122×157 cm: Description of the artwork | Arthive

Here is the full painting:

(from Sofonisba Anguissola | Europeana)

Italian Renaissance Hair Jewellery

I'm having a break from boring sleeve sewing and finishing up some headwear that has been sitting around for a long time.

I really like the Italian style of wearing a necklace or decorated band in the hair in front of the braid like in this portrait by Sofonisba Anguissola

Image from: Sofonisba Anguissola - Portrait of the Artist's Sisters Playing Chess - WGA00697 - The Game of Chess (Sofonisba Anguissola) - Wikipedia

Since a lot of our SCA events are outside in public places, I don't feel confident pinning jewellery to my hair, and instead have been sewing jewellery components and beads to velvet bands that are secured into the hair with wig clips.

It is fiddly work, doesn't take up much room to store, and very easy to put off for another day!

I recently finished this one, which has bracelet pieces sewn onto a velvet band and separated with gold coils. The edges have tiny gold seed beads sewn on, and the back is faced with grosgrain ribbon (which helps grip the hair). I use a central wig clip and one at each end to secure.

I got a lot of elements suitable for this type of band from shops like Lovisa, Diva and Collete pre-Covid. I don't really go shopping like I used to, but thrift stores and op shops can be a good place to pick up old bracelets that you can break down to make this style of headwear.

May Day Challenge - Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves #3 (Purple)

 Last year Duchess Constanzia Moralez of Lochac set a Challenge to all those interested -The May Day Challenge (a personal challenge on 'how to improve your SCA in any way by May Day, AS LVII'). 

Image credit: R. Vess

My Challenge was to work on that UnFinished Object pile and get some items finished. My friend won Crown during the Challenge, and so some of my energy was diverted into helping create garb for Them and Their Household, but I did manage to get some items finished before the Challenge ended.

This pair of sleeves had been languishing in the UFO pile, cut out but unsewn. I machine sewed the centre back seam on the lining and outer fabrics, and stab stitched the seams open. Then the sleeves were joined at the shoulder seam and the lining and outer parts were hemmed individually. I then whip stitched around the top of each sleeve to prevent any movement in the lining, and worked five eyelets at the top of each sleeve.

These sleeves look blue in the picture but are actually purple.

May Day Challenge - Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves #2 (White with gold trim)

 Last year Duchess Constanzia Moralez of Lochac set a Challenge to all those interested -The May Day Challenge (a personal challenge on 'how to improve your SCA in any way by May Day, AS LVII'). 

Image credit: R. Vess

My Challenge was to work on that UnFinished Object pile and get some items finished. My friend won Crown during the Challenge, and so some of my energy was diverted into helping create garb for Them and Their Household, but I did manage to get some items finished before the Challenge ended.

Second is another pair of sleeves that just needed two more eyelets added on each sleeve and the top edge whip- stitched to be wearable.

May Day Challenge - Italian Style Tie-on Sleeves #1 (Cream damask)

Last year Duchess Constanzia Moralez of Lochac set a Challenge to all those interested -The May Day Challenge (a personal challenge on how to improve your SCA in any way by May Day, AS LVII). 

Image credit: R. Vess

My Challenge was to work on that UnFinished Object pile and get some items finished. My friend won Crown during the Challenge, and so some of my energy was diverted into helping create garb for Them and Their Household, but I did manage to get some items finished before the Challenge ended.

First up is a pair of sleeves that just needed two more eyelets added on each sleeve. (An easy task to put off, because I hate doing eyelets!)

Embroidered German-style Brustfleck - Eagle Design

I recently had the opportunity to help make an embroidered German-style brustfleck for His Majesty. The talented Sir Eva designed and traced out the complex design as well as supplying the materials.

The designed was traced out in Frixion pen and embroidered with DMC floss in one, two or three strands (depending on the area of the design). The main part of the embroidery was done in split stitch, but there are also elements that have satin stitch, backstitch and double running stitch.

Once the embroidery was finished, it was cut out and adhesive was added on the back. I fused the bird to the silk background for extra stability and stitched the panel edge down with tiny stitches. Then I couched down over the edges with silver cord.

The completed panel was then given back to Sir Eva for points to be added. Many thanks to Sir Eva for doing all the hard work in a very limited time frame!

Article: Is the boy in this 400 year old painting wearing a pair of Nike trainers?

 I found this article amusing:

Is the boy in this 400-year-old painting wearing a pair of Nike trainers? (msn.com)

Italian Style Green Gown for a Young Woman - Completed

Here is the completed outfit that I referenced in an earlier post. There are three foreparts and two sets of sleeves that go with the dress and it is mostly handsewn.

Sleeves - Italian Style Green Gown for a Young Woman

These are the sleeves that I made to go with the green Italian style gown that I did an earlier progress post on. 

The sleeve pattern is not in the traditional 16th Century style (with the seam running down the outside back seam), but rather a modern style sleeve with the seam underneath. This is because the patterns for  the bodice and sleeves were 'guess-timations' as the wearer was not available to be fitted.

The plain pair is self -lined, and the pair with hand-sewn trim have a light calico lining because the trim adds quite a lot of stiffness. The sleeves tie on with ribbons through hand-sewn eyelets. I fell my seams by hand to keep everything nice and flat, and I prefer to sew the sleeve hem and lining hem separately so that I can offset the lining to prevent it rolling out if the sleeve stretches a bit with wear.

 

Italian Style Green Gown for a Young Woman

I have been occupied for the last few weeks with a project for a friend. 

Lochac's big SCA event 'Rowany Festival' is coming up, and a young friend wanted to learn how to make an Italian style dress and make a new one in time for Festival. It was a great opportunity to pass on skills, but (as so often happens) there wasn't enough time to get much done during our designated time together. I have been working on the outfit when my health allows, and I can finally see the light at the end of the proverbial tunnel.

The dress is made from a hard wearing and washable cotton drill and lined in drill and calico. The light boning is removable as the wearer is still adjusting to boned garments. There is a pleat at the hem to allow for growth. Three seams are machine sewn, with all other sewing, including seam felling, being done by hand. The dress has commercially made trim applied. The pattern is based on an existing 16thC style dress that is comfortable for the wearer.

Some excellent images of 16th century working class dress can be found here:

Italy: Working Class Dress (1575-1600) - Sophie Stitches (weebly.com)

including this detail from the Nativity of Mary by Pietro Ronzelli which is in the style of the recipient's wardrobe-

A split stitch design for a shirt, in the German style

I recently had a chance to make a collar panel for a friend's shirt as part of a collaborative project.

I used this pattern from 'Book of Embroidery: 1534', by Johan Schartzenberger, Woodcutter of Augsburg as my inspiration.

Time was short on this one, so I made some adjustments to make working the piece a bit faster.

The original woodcut is a bit wonky in places, as so many of the period embroidery designs are. I am always torn whether to alter the design to make it more symmetrical, or leave it as is. I altered some of the wonky bits, but left the majority of the design as it was published.

The base fabric is linen (donated by THL Sorcha - thank you). The embroidery is worked in split stitch with a bit of double running stitch. I traced the design onto the linen using a Frixion heat-removable marker and a light board.

 

 

 

Overall, and given the time restrictions, I am fairly happy with how this piece turned out. Now it has been passed onto the next person for making up.

Many thanks to THL Sorcha for donating the linen.