Showing posts with label flat felled seams. Show all posts
Showing posts with label flat felled seams. Show all posts

Friday, November 19, 2021

Roman Tunica 2016

Here is a post that has been waiting to be posted for *three years* because somehow I missed it.
Also, I don't particularly like the way this tunica looks on me, so I don't wear it often and only reach for it when it is really hot.

We have some very hot days here in South Australia, and a collegium class presented by my talented friend Mistress Ursula von Memingen back in 2016 inspired me to sew a Roman style tunica.

I decided on the style which is billowed out over the bust above a belt. Basically, the style is two rectangles, which when hemmed, are sewn into a cylinder which is long enough to allow for the top part to be pulled out loosely and for the arms to fit in.

This pattern layout gives the basic idea, although my measurements would be different
Image from: https://www.pinterest.com.au/pin/273171533621522685/

I had some light blue linen, which I hand sewed. The edges of the fabric all have a thin edge turned over and hand sewed down. I  tried on the cylinder on to gauge where the neck edge should be and where the arm holes should end. I used safety pins to mark the spot on each side of the neck where the join should start and where the armhole should finish. I then extended my arms so that I could mark the spots where I would gather the top of arm seam to form decorative little bobbles.

The next step was to take off the rectangles and sew them up by hand with a whip stitch, leaving holes for the arms. I didn't sew the top or arm/neck edge because the bobbles would hold this seam together. I did put a few anchoring stitches in first though, for extra strength.


A small hem doubles over twice.

The little bobbles are basically just small puffs of the fabric with thread wrapped around them to form a base or a shank. Use pins or safety pins to mark and check the position before you sew, and make sure both sides have the bobbles in the same place. You could alternatively use decorative buttons, or pins/fibulae.

I bought some geometric trim to decorate the tunica, but I decided not to in the end. (I like it plain.)
Fresco Detail: The Dressing a Priestess or Bride,  Excavated in the palaestra of the Forum Baths at Herculaneum, 79 CE Image from: http://jeannepompadour.tumblr.com/post/66774756105/dressing-a-priestess-or-bridefound-in-the via Pinterest https://www.pinterest.com.au/pin/487585097132476822/


Me in the completed tunica and matching jewellery. I don't wear it much because I don't feel that it flatters my body type. A softer linen might have been more flattering and drape better.

Further reading on Roman Fashion: Croom, Alexandra 2010. Roman Clothing and Fashion ISBN: 9781848689770

Thursday, February 15, 2018

Felling Seams

Well, it took quite a while but I think I have found the issue with the photos that were not showing up on the blog, and fixed it. It took me on quite a trip down memory lane; reviewing past projects and remembering other things that were going on in my life at the same time. It reminded me also that I do achieve quite a lot despite my health challenges, and that I should probably stop criticising myself quite so much and stop comparing my efforts to what all the able bodied energetic people are doing. Hmmm...... easier said than done.

This week I have spent my sewing time hand felling hems for a friend who has an event coming up and needs some hot weather garb. It's not exciting stuff by any stretch of the imagination, but it is a good opportunity to practice my hand stitching. And it is lovely to work with pure linen, which is usually our of my price range.



Sunday, June 18, 2017

A&S Challenge - Seam Treatments and a New Sash

Lots of seam treatments this week, plus I sewed up a new sash. The sash is a simple (very long) rectangle, hemmed at both ends. I toyed with the idea of adding tassels to this one as it is longer than my others, but I decided that I will get more use out of it as it is. I am not usually a fan of orange (the camera has not reproduced the colour faithfully) but I think it will look good against a black gown. I got the fabric quite cheap at a thrift store, so I am pretty happy with this find. I still have enough for an underskirt or kirtle.


Wednesday, June 14, 2017

A&S Century Challenge - Seam finishing

Since my last post I have been doing boring (but relaxing) seam finishing. I am still unwell and have even had a day in hospital so this relaxed handsewing suits my energy levels at the moment.
I've also done a little bit of scroll painting.

Monday, May 22, 2017

A&S Century Challenge - Seam treatments

I haven't posted for a few days because I have been quite sick with pleurisy and a chest infection, but I have tried to continue the A&S Century challenge.

Today I wasn't up for more than some very simple seam treatments.

Yesterday I helped to judge some A&S competitions.

The day before that I did some hemming and sewed some sleeve ties on.

The day before that I sewed hooks and eyes onto skirt openings.

All boring and slightly tedious jobs that are easy to put off. The Century Challenge has been great because it is encouraging me to get lots of little jobs finished - usually the ones that I tend to put off.

Monday, May 8, 2017

100 Days of A&S - Seam treatments and split stitch badges

Today I worked on seam finishing inside a camicia (chemise). I have three cut out and assembled to a basic level. When I have a bit of spare time (e.g. in front of the telly) I can pick one up and do a bit. I'm getting there (very) slowly.

I also did some stem stitching on another heraldic badge for a friend.


Monday, May 1, 2017

A&S 100 Challenge - Day 3 (Flat felling seams on body linens)

Flat felling seams today. My hands are protesting yesterday's fingerloop braiding experiment, so I'm keeping it simple!

This is one out of a pile of chemises/smocks waiting to be hemmed and made up.