Italian Renaissance Forepart/Chemise Cover

I have been busy working on projects for other people lately, but I recently decided that I needed to put an hour or so aside to make a new forepart/chemise cover. As a bigger busted lady, I prefer to wear a set of short stays under my late period Renaissance dresses. (I am aware that no extant bodies or stays with boning have been found from sixteenth century Italy, and I certainly don't want to open any debate about the likelihood of this being a dress option for ladies at that time.) This choice of underpinnings seems like a logical choice to me, is comfortable and supportive, and gives a nice line to my bodices. Since I often don't have anyone to help me dress, I wear a lot of front lacing gowns, and the forepart/chemise cover hides my underpinnings and gives the look of a chemise poking through the lacing.

Some portraits that inspired this look include:


Portrait of a Venetian Woman by Veronese
Image from: http://bjws.blogspot.com.au/2013/01/portraits-of-women-attributed-to-paolo.html


Portrait of a Venetian Woman by Veronese
Image from: http://bjws.blogspot.com.au/2013/01/portraits-of-women-attributed-to-paolo.html

Portrait of a Lady by Bernardino Licinio
Image from: https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernardino_Licinio


To make these items I take a rectangle of fabric that corresponds to the front of my bodice, allowing plenty of extra fabric for variations in dress bodices and changes in tightness of lacing depending on the event. I used cotton this time, because I had some scraps in exactly the right size, but I do love using linen. It is nice to sew with, looks good and breathes very well. It is also more likely to have been used in period.

I use a backing piece and then pin a larger piece over the top, pinning the extra fabric into small pleats. I am usually in a hurry when I do these, so I pin by eye and I tend to buzz over the pleats with the sewing machine. I sew around all four edges of the rectangle. Then I pin another rectangle over the top of the pleated piece (good side to good side.) I sew the pieces together with the machine, leaving a small area unsewn for turning. Once I turn it inside out (so that the pleats are back on the outside,) I use a big knitting needle to push the corners out. Then I hand sew the open seam together, usually with a quick whip stitch.

At this point I might add lace or some decorative stitching to the top edge, depending on what I plan to wear the forepart with. I use small dress pins to pin mine on over my stays, lining the top edge up neatly with the chemise and dress. Then the dress bodice is laced over the top as you can see in these pictures

 
  

It is not a fancy or exciting piece of clothing, but it is extremely handy to have. I have a several- they can take a while to dry after washing in colder weather, and it is always nice to have a spare or two in case spills happen. 

At some stage in the future I would like to get time to make some highly decorated foreparts/chemise covers.

Portrait of  A Venetian Woman by Francesco Montemezzano (1550)
Image from: http://bjws.blogspot.com.au/2015/10/a-few-robust-1500s-women.html

Another Device for Banner Project

I recently completed another banner for our local SCA populace banner project. It is made of felt with embroidered details and goldwork and beads. I sewed the yellow shield shape to the black base, then cut out the black seraphim shape and added it to the yellow shield. I embroidered the details and couched down a gold cord for highlights.The beads on the halo are gold alloy jewellery crimps.

Here are the finished device banners. Not all the devices have been made by me- many others in the Barony have contributed to this project (which has been running for about sixteen years.) The banners are designed to record the devices of the members of the Barony in the order in which they were registered with the College of Heralds. The devices are created in a range of fabrics and using a variety of techniques.

 Banner 4

Banner 5 (current)

 Banner 1

Banner 2 (I got involved in the project at this point)

Banner 3

Forest Archery Event

Here are some images from a recent SCA archery event in the forest.

Seed Bead Necklace

Portrait of Giovanna Tornabuoni by Ghirlandaio

Image from: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3b/Ghirlandaio-Giovanna_Tornabuoni_cropped.jpg

I made a necklace similar to this one with 2mm seed beads. I suspect that this type of necklace (which is seen widely in Italian portraiture of this time) is made from a knotted cord. I decided to make one in this style from beads. Usually I love beading, but this was a troublesome project (mainly due to the size of the beads.)

The completed necklace

Plans for a Quest

I found the Noble Pilgrimage to be so helpful, so beneficial, that I have decided to set myself a personal Quest. I think that I will set the time frame at three or six months, and then review my goals and change focus to keep things fresh and interesting.


Image from: https://medievalchristianityd.wikispaces.com/Roderick+Hulin+-+Pilgrimage

One aspect that I would like to include in the new Quest is learning new skills. There are many things that I have wanted to learn for a very long time, and they always seem to fall by the wayside as more pressing projects come up. Time to change this!

Another thing that I noticed when I was trying to make my recent garb from stash was that I have a terrible habit of starting projects (especially embroidery) and putting them aside and never finishing them. One way to help stay on track with these sort of projects might be to keep lists/notes of what needs to be done and mark down starting dates and progress.

I would also like to highlight a specific area that needs to be focused on. For instance, I need new body linens as mine are all wearing out. Prior to next winter, warmer layers might need to be a focus area. I would also like to have a couple more tourney dresses.

These focus points are in addition to the things that I learned that I need to spend more time on: grace, posture, cutting out mundane and slang speech, using titles, trying harder to talk to people I don't know very well/pointy hats. These tasks will be ongoing, I think.


So, on top of all the other things that need to be done, my Quest goals will be:
* Developing New Habits
* A New Skill
* Unfinished Projects
* Focus Area  - at this time it will be "body linens"
I might add in
* Projects for Others too, because I didn't realise how much time I spend on this until I did the Pilgrimage.

I will initially set the review point at three months, although I think that will probably be too short a time to achieve what I would like to (especially given that I am sick so much in winter and that my hands don't work very well. We'll see!)

Noble Pilrgimage - Final Update - June

Image source: https://europeanhistory.boisestate.edu/images/illustrations/pilgrimwoodcut.jpg

The Pilgrimage is close to coming to a close, so it is time to reflect on my journey so far.


Prowess:

* Learn a new skill - basic leather work
I have been using my cutlery bag, and  I have cut out two scroll bags which are waiting to be sewn up.

* Improve my illumination skills - practicing with new designs, painting scroll blanks and developing confidence by "doodling" . Several scrolls illuminated in the last two months, plus some original designs underway. Ongoing online challenge for my local group underway and big plans (with Warden Deputy) to get people excited about scribal work and allow them to experiment and develop their skills in a fun workshop environment. I am really enjoying my scribal work.


* Develop my sewing skills
Have finished two dresses (tourney and Court) during this challenge. Also made a new caul and completed an embroidered chemise worked to someone else's design. Made new sleeves. Feeling a lot more confident about sewing (although I doubt that I will ever love it.) Happy with the two new bodice patterns and sleeve pattern that I have developed. I now feel better equipped to deal with issues that come up during garment construction.


* Develop my embroidery skills
New chemise project for a friend complete-  it involved hand hemming and embroidery. Very satisfying. Lots of plans for new projects brewing!

* Enter more A&S competitions
I have entered quite a few since this challenge started, and I now feel that I have the confidence to make it a regular thing. I felt very humbled to win the Innilgard A&S Championship which ran over the last year.

* Try and blog more regularly
A little variable at the moment because sometimes the item needs to be presented before I can show photos and I always wonder if I am just talking rubbish that people are not interested in.


Franchise:

* Make badge banner and pole for outside events
- delayed as hot weather was making my silk paint set blotchily, banner is half done. Will be finished soon.
* Make a new hall banner
- complete

* Make a new bottle cover, napkin and cutlery pouch
- cutlery pouch complete
- many completed, final one almost finished. I plan to do a couple more for other members of my group.


* New tourney dress

Photo credit: A.Kenner

- complete (need to get a good photo!)





* New feast dress
- complete






* Make more accessories
- complete
Finished new girdle and necklace. Lots of plans for more as this is probably my favourite A&S activity apart from scribal work.

* Work on cutting out slang and mundane talk. Trying hard, but this will be a continual process.
* Try harder to speak nobly. Trying hard, but this will be a continual process.
* Read ''The Bard's English'' - completed
* Work on moving more gracefully, and work on posture. Trying hard, but this will be a continual process, especially when I am tired.
* **Continue with existing projects and commitments - ongoing.  I got most of my projects completed in time for the big event. Still working on the WCoB presentation piece and doublet but I am very close. for a friend. Continuing to help with projects and teach. Continuing to administer LCG and organise records, and I am really seeing progress so feeling very positive.



Piety

* Continue teaching classes ongoing
* Continue with regular service projects: device banner, mouse pouches, award cords, Baronial projects, scribe work etc. (Ongoing)
A&S cloak complete (but I need to get a nice photo).

* Run an event (I have had to postpone this as this challenge has made me very aware of my physical weaknesses. Perhaps being involved in a stewarding team capacity is more appropriate.)
* Make Primus Agmen award pouches - did a Mouse Pouch instead and will do PAs now that the big event is over.

* Learn the duties of a Lady in Waiting
I recently stepped up down Lady in Waiting to my Baroness. It was a huge step in many ways and I learned so much. I also learned just how much I need to learn. But it was a great opportunity and I gained confidence. I even offered to wait on Her Majesty at the recent Royal visit. My services were not required, but I did feel that being prepared to do it was a huge step for me and a big personal success.
* Help people with individual projects
- embroidery project for a friend: complete
- jerkin for a friend- complete
-fencing doublet - almost done
Naturally there are new projects for more people lined up. This is a never ending job, but extremely satisfying.

Largesse

* Continue teaching garb skills - ongoing
* Make more effort to chat to newcomers at events and training. Trying hard. I have attended demos and make bigger efforts to make newcomers feel at home. A big achievement for me and I feel very happy with my successes
* Try harder to make people feel relaxed, welcome and comfortable
Keeping an eye on newcomers and staying in touch electronically so that they know what to bring to events etc. I feel quite proud of myself for this as it is particularly and continually difficult.
* Donate coffee and cake money to charity at least twice a month
- still making regular donations
* Make largesse items for Gift Box
- still making jewelery and small items




Prudence 

* Re-read "Knowne World Handbook"
* Read The Treasure of the City of Ladies
*  Re-read A&S Handbook 
* Read "At The Court of The Borgia" by Johann Burchard - continuing
* Try to learn more about combat
- trying to learn more about rapier and heavy by chatting to fighters and paying more at training, reading social media posts and internet information on this area. Ongoing.
All this information is helping to shape my behaviour, and how I view the game we play.


Courtesy

* Work on shyness and awkwardness - this will be an ongoing consideration, I think.
* Make an effort to speak to people I don't know/well
* Introduce myself to strangers: working on this
* Learn to accept compliments graciously
* Learn to ask for help: I have done this a few times in the last month
* Stop avoiding Peers and Pointy Hats: improving
* Write more recommendations for worthy individuals - ongoing
* Write a resume of SCA achievements to help develop confidence within the game
-  done! This started off  slowly and was difficult, but actually turned out to be a pleasant exercise because I decided to add in dates of events and so the resume has also become a sort of timeline. Working on it has been a nice trip down Memory Lane and has reminded me how much my game has improved over the last fifteen years. I would recommend this exercise!

Although ''Courtesy" is probably going to be an ongoing challenge for me, I really feel that I have made big improvements in this area. What I have learned and achieved has really made this Pilgrimage worthwhile and made me enjoy my SCA time more.


I have found that being accountable to the group of Pilgrims has worked really well for me, so I am going to set myself a new Quest at the end of the Pilgrimage. Hopefully that will help me to continue with small improvements and successes.

There are several ladies within the SCA who continuously inspire me with every aspect of the way they behave and present themselves. I am lucky that one of these ladies is in my local group, and she has (and will continue to be) a good reminder of the behaviour and style that I aspire to.

I would like to thank the organisers and Wardens for the opportunity to be part of the Pilgrimage. It has been a great motivator for me, and I have enjoyed being part of a wider group of Lochacians working towards similar goals. I did not think I would be as successful as I have been, and I feel that I have achieved my goals (often in trying circumstances.) The Pilgrimage has encouraged me to focus on the finer aspects of the SCA and reminded me of why I enjoy it so much. I feel inspired to continue on some sort of similar journey to help me to build on the successes that I have already achieved through the Pilgrimage.

Mouse Guard Pouch

A little project that I just managed to squeeze in and finish before the big event was a Mouse Pouch to offer to Their Majesties. In this Kingdom, kids may be invited to join the Mouse Guard, which is (of course,) a great honour. I managed to get one finished in time, and I was very happy that a special little member of our Barony was invited to join the Guard and presented with the pouch at the event.

The pouch is made of red linen blend (self-lined) with a white felt mouse and cotton lucet cord ties. The lucet cord was made by Heather- many thanks!

Some information on the Mouse Guard pouches from: http://broiderers.lochac.sca.org/projects/mouse
More information can be found at that site.

"The Mouse Guard was established in the reign of Corin Anderson and Keredwin the Mouse while Lochac was still a Principality and was retained by the new Kingdom. The award is given to those amongst those very young subjects that Their Majesties finds have been of help to others and otherwise worthy of recognition.

The token of the award is a pouch, bearing the reversed charge from the device of Her Excellency Mistress Keredwin the Mouse. The device (shown right) is "Gules crusily botony, a mouse sejant erect to sinister, tail nowed argent". The pouch bears the mouse charge facing the other way (to dexter) on a plain red field.

The Worshipful Company of Broiderers has been requested to help provide suitable pouches, so that these may given out in each reign."

Malachite necklace for new Baroness

Malachite and baroque pearl necklace made for the incoming Baroness.

Largesse for a friend's event

An online friend is hosting a big event soon and needed some largesse, so I took the opportunity to make some as a surprise and send it along with a friend who was wayfaring.

Baronial Tablecloth Project

For the past year or so I have been involved in embroidering a panel for the Baronial tablecloth project. The majority of the work (as well as the design) has been done by Viscountess Ingerith Ryzka, but many hands in the barony helped. It was a delight to see the completed panels on display at the 30th Anniversary event.

and an unpinned panel

Photo credit: T. Lyons