Navy and Purple Tourney Dress Diary- IRCC5

May has been a busy month for me. I decided to use thie Italian renaissance Costuming Challenge (http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/challenges/IRCC2015/IRCC5-2015-Entrants.htm)  as an opportunity to try new techniques and experiment a little. This month I worked on a new tourney dress. I decided to try a front lacing dress with a large gap, and also to make it without boning. This was a big step for me, as I really like the support and smooth lines that boning gives.

My inspiration was this style of dress as painted by Ghirlandaio:

image from- https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1cfPPTc544n1nQg5N58H1s9jeSDSnAO79pSZSk_DH5YdCgSC3xO5UbZXq1M5jOBt-nFPJA22oAJEZX3hh613Wo-rJ93zcSG0pi6ZnRmMyiW-gZMsVTx27UglPqnfmwQE3kXsSctEFG5Jr/s640/w+Domenico+Ghirlandaio+(Italian+artist,+1449%E2%80%931494)+Ludovica+Tornabuoni+(2).jpg
I looked at many variations on this style and decided not to copy any particular one specifically. There are a wide range of bodice shapes, sleeve styles, lacing options, and trim designs seen in this period.


Portrait of Giovann Tornabuoni by Ghirlandaio
Image from: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3b/Ghirlandaio-Giovanna_Tornabuoni_cropped.jpg


Detail from Birth of St John the Baptist by Ghirlandaio
Image from: http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tornabuoni



Zaccharias Writes Down The Name of His Son by Ghirlandaio
Image from: https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_CC-VZcpuD6gHsd8TJyFBhem2XH7xawzSpDtkJPCP-AaT-a-dKwFi9pYpdexGxcabmtEEq7bU5TvXiRaaVzmEtzm3IXjcqtsFRiHjTP7CUCBfv0vXC6PTms15jV2D7BIlWY-wXSV7PRCY/s1600/w+Domenico+Ghirlandaio+(Italian+artist,+1449%E2%80%931494)+Zacharias+Writes+Down+the+Name+of+his+Son+Ghirlandaio+Tornabuoni+Chapel.jpg


Birth of the Virgin (detail) by Ghirlandaio
Image from: http://www.poderesantapia.com/images/art/ghirlandaio/tornabuonibirth2600.jpg



I adapted an existing bodice pattern to make the neckline higher and more rounded. I cut my cotton fabric, lining and two interlinings and zigzagged all the edges. Then I sewed all the pieces together so I had an outer layer, two lining layers and an inner layer. I stab stitched all the seams open but did the rest on the machine to save time. Then I sewed the bodice layers together inside out, clipped the seams, and turned it all the right way out. I hand sewed the neckline the bodice and armholes closed.

(I have used this technique successfully in the past with boned bodices; I think that the plastic hoop boning that I like to use for bodices gives a thickness to the bodice and hides any bulk. I would not use this technique again for an unlined bodice because there is no hiding the bulk of all the seam allowances around the seam lines.)

Here you can see the bulky seam allowances showing through

I had a lot of fun playing with trim options:

 
  

But in the end, I sewed a line of purple gimp braid along the neckline edge for decoration.

I added brass lacing rings along the front of the bodice just to try a new option. I was a bit worried about using lacing rings on this bodice because I was worried that the rings might pull away from the fabric. I have worn the dress with a lightly boned pair of bodies, and it was fine. I just need to remember not to ''yank'' on the lacing in the way that I might do with a bodice that has lacing holes reinforced by boning. I think I do still prefer lacing holes though.

I added some lucet cord ties around the shoulder so that sleeves could be tied on. Thank you to Heather for making the cords for me.

I cartridge pleated the skirt onto the bottom of the bodice. I usually use 5mm pleats; this time I marked out 1cm pleats. My skirt was made of three equal rectangles of fabric joined together and finished at the top. I then turned the finished edge over to hide the machine sewing. Then I marked out a line of dots 1cm apart and went joined them up with a thick thread. Usually I use two parallel lines of quadrupled sewing thread to make my pleats. This time I tried out a short cut by using one piece of crochet cotton. It worked a treat and saved a lot of time, but I may just have been very, very lucky that the thread didn't break and cause me to have to start over again. I probably would go back to using a double row of threads next time, just to be on the safe side. Having said that, I managed to get the whole skirt marked out and pleated on in an evening, as opposed to the whole day that it usually takes me. I whip stitched through the centre of each pleat with a quadrupled strong thread to anchor the skirt to the bodice. I left a small split at the middle front of the skirt to make it easier to put on and take off.

After my trusty helper pinned my hem up for me (thank you Sharyn!),  I trimmed it and sewed it into place by hand.

 I added hooks and eyes at the front skirt split, but actually ended up just pinning the front into place when I wore the dress because it meant that I could adjust the lacing tighter or more loosely depending on  how I felt on the day.

 I am considering whether to add a line of purple ribbon around the bottom edge of the dress skirt.

The gown is not completely finished, and I am not completely satisfied with it, but it is wearable, and I am glad that I have tried a few new techniques.

Brown Velvet Padded Roll Italian Hat

You may remember that I recently made a padded roll style hat
(http://broidermebethan.blogspot.com.au/2015/04/italian-padded-roll-with-seed-beads.html). I had another on the go since last year that I originally intended to be a covered balzo, but it was so comfortable as a roll that I decided not to add the covering piece.

It is a tube of brown velveteen stuffed with Fibrefill. In period, rags, sawdust or horsehair would probably have been used, but Fibrefill is readily available and light to wear. Braid and velvet ribbon have been stitched to the roll, and two metal discs have been sewn on the front and anchored with beads. I sewed baroque freshwater pearls onto the velvet ribbon; white on the front and pale green on the sides.

All it needs now is another piece of velvet ribbon to cover the seam at the back.

Some examples of similar headwear:

Portrait of a Woman and Child by Paris Bordone

(This may be a Balzo)

Image from: http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/wardrobe/BordoneBambino.jpg

 

Image from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/59883870020743031/

Picture by Maestro Palanquinos c. 1480
Image from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/59883870020860497/

Unattributed Image from ppp. 10-11 in "What Life Was Like At The Rebirth of Genius" by Time Life Books, ISBN: 0-7835 5461-3

Roman-style Lapis and Tiger Eye Necklace

I recently made this Roman-style necklace for a friend who loves Tiger Eye. The stones are lapis and tiger eye, strung on tiger tail.

The necklace style was inspired by some found in Pompeii.

(Glass bead necklaces; Fig 20 and 22 in ''Women and Beauty in Pompeii" by Antonio d'Ambrosio)

I'm pleased to say that the necklace looks lovely with my friend's beautiful new handmade tunica.

Long Beaded Necklace

I recently made a long beaded necklace for a friend.



Lady with an Ermine by Leonardo da Vinci
Image from: http://www.lairweb.org.nz/leonardo/ermine.html



La Belle Ferrionere by Leonardo da Vinci
Image from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_belle_ferronni%C3%A8re



It is a very simple design of 4mm glass seed beads strung on tiger tail, with a gold clasp:

Mystery Bugiardini Portrait

This portrait attributed to a follower of  Giuliano Bugiardini may in fact be a lost Raphael.



Image from:  https://news.artnet.com/in-brief/mystery-portrait-may-be-a-lost-raphael-39806

Full story at https://news.artnet.com/in-brief/mystery-portrait-may-be-a-lost-raphael-39806

Embroidered Petticoat Panels

Some inspiration for a future embroidery project:



Embroidered petticoat panel c 1600, V&A Museum
Item Number T.138-1981
from: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O85436/petticoat-panel-unknown/

Red floral collar and cuff set

Here is another one of the projects that I worked on for friends. This time it is a maroon floral embroidery design on linen.

The pattern book that I used for this design. It is an excellent reference for band patterns.

Plate 13 from 1527, showing the pattern that I adapted on the left

This design was executed in double running stitch, with two strands of DMC cotton floss. I have done this design before on a partlet in black and gold, (see entry for Collarless Italian Partlet, January 2012) but I like the monochrome effect much more.

My favourite part of the process! Rinsing the  finished embroidery and the design looks so bright and fresh!

The completed design. These pieces took approximately fifty hours to work, including drawing and tracing the designs.

The finished pieces ironed and waiting to be made into collar and cuffs.

The design reminded me a bit of the embroidery on the chemise of Aldorfer's Young Woman (in Portrait of a Young Woman). It is conceivable that we used the same pattern!

Image from: http://www.museothyssen.org/en/thyssen/ficha_obra/814

New Renaissance Bling!

What a great week for Renaissance bling! My talented friend Gabriel at Flashes of Flattery (http://flashesofflattery.blogspot.com.au/) made me this lovely Elizabethan necklace out of seed beads:

 And I picked this pretty necklace up from a thrift shop for $4. The pearls are just plastic, and a bit discoloured, but I like the colour theme. I cleaned the beads, and re-strung them on tiger tail.

Simple Gold Chain Girdle

A very simple gold chain girdle, made from a very strong metal chain with a lobster clasp.

Venetian Lovers - Paris Bordogne
Image from: https://www.wga.hu/html_m/b/bordone/venlover.html




Portrait of a Lady - Licinio
Image from: https://www.artuk.org/discover/artworks/portrait-of-a-lady-28713



Portrait of Laura da Pola - Lorenzo Lotto
Image from: https://pinacotecabrera.org/en/collezione-online/opere/portrait-of-laura-da-pola/

Beaded Italian Necklace

Simple string, cord and beaded necklaces seem to be fairly popular in Italy in the fifteenth century, so I decided to make one to go with this style of dress.



Portrait of Giovanna Tornabuoni by Ghirlandaio
Image from: http://ganino.com/_media/artists:domenico_ghirlandaio1449-1494:ghirlandaio13.jpg


Domenico Ghirlandaio, Birth of St. John the Baptist (1486-1490)
Image from: http://ganino.com/_media/artists:domenico_ghirlandaio1449-1494:ghirlandaio2.jpg



Ghirlandaio's Portrait of a Lady
Image from: http://www.wikiart.org/en/domenico-ghirlandaio/portrait-of-a-lady

I made my necklace as a single strand of beads which then splits into two after being separated by a larger blue sunstone bead.

The blue glass seed beads (4mm) were strung onto tiger tail. A crimp was used at the bottom to secure the beads. After the bigger sunstone bead, the single strand splits to become two separate strands. They are finished with crimps and silver fastenings.

I am thinking of making another necklace in a similar style, but with two strands at the bottom, and maybe one in thin lucet or fingerwoven cord.