Blue and Gold Tie-On Sleeves

I had an event back in September and I thought a new pair of sleeves would perk up my old gown.
I used an existing sleeve as a pattern.

The fashion fabric was sold to me as 'silk and gilt.'

I cut out the sleeve in the fashion fabric and lining in some solid cotton broadcloth. I machine zigzagged round the edges for stability.

I machine sewed the centre back seam, and then hand tacked all the seams open. Then I slid the sleeve and lining together (wrong sides out) and pinned together at the top.

I machine stitched around the top, clipped my curves and then turned the sleeve right way out. I use a pin to make sure that the seam is fully pulled out and sitting nicely, and then pin the lining into a secure position. I then whip stitch around the top of the sleeve to make sure the lining doesn't move around when I am wearing the sleeve.

I mark the positions of the eyelets to correspond with the ties on my gown. I use an awl and a knitting needle to make the holes. I use a double running stitch to sew around the outside of the hole and then I go over the edges with a satin stitch in thick thread.

I added a decorative tabbed piece at the wrist. This decorative effect can be seen in many sixteenth century portraits. I double over a piece of fabric, and sew it together. I then sandwich it in place at the edge of bodice or sleeve (as in this case.) I whip stitched it into place on the outside and inside. Sometimes I add a running stitch along the inner edge for extra strength. I usually don't snip the tabs until it is sewn into place; it depends on how tired I am! Be very careful when snipping that you don't catch the actual sleeve. I usually do 0.5 cm or 1 cm tabs (snipping every 5mm or 10mm).

The bodice edge on this gown shows a similar tabbed effect. 

Portrait of a Woman inspired by Lucretia by Lorenzo Lotto c 1530

Image from: https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/lorenzo-lotto-portrait-of-a-woman-inspired-by-lucretia

This portrait of the lovely Eleanor of Toledo shows a tabbed edge to her bodice.

Portrait of Eleanor of Toldeo by Agnolo Bronzino

Image from: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/75/Agnolo_Bronzino_-_Eleonora_of_Toledo_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg

You can see tabbed bodice edges on several of Eleanor's gowns, including this one: https://www.alamy.com/portrait-of-eleanor-of-toledo-1522-1562-museum-staatliche-museen-berlin-image212355471.html

Supervision by Bitey

The new sleeves with my black gown

I was really happy with how this project turned out. I am looking forward to making up some more sleeves in different fabrics. I know I have said it before, but a range of tie-on sleeves really are a great investment and a valuable addition to an Italian noble wardrobe.