Season's Greetings

 Season's Greetings! May you have a peaceful and healthy 2024 and may all your projects go smoothly.

RHCC: Layer One (Detachable Sleeves) - Complete

 The first official layer - Accessories - of my entry into the River Haven Clothing Challenge is complete.

Two pairs of tie-on sleeves down; one undergarment layer and one outer layer still to go.

RHCC: Layer One (Detachable Sleeves) - Blue Sleeves

I used my existing sleeve pattern and cut the blue fabric and cotton lining. I machine zig zag stitched the edges and then sewed up the seam that runs down the back of the arm on both the blue fashion fabric and the lining. I stab stitched the arm back sleeve open on lining and fashion layers.

I put the right sides of the lining and fashion fabric tubes together (with a lot of double checking to make sure I was sewing the correct pieces) and machine stitched around the top of the armscye. I then clipped the curves to make sure the top of the sleeve would sit nicely and not be bulky, and then I turned it all right side out. I whip stitched around the top edge of the sleeve to make sure that the lining didn't roll out at any stage. I embroidered an 'L' inside the left sleeve to make dressing in a hurry easier.

I marked 1.5cm seam allowance on the fashion fabric and turned the hem under at the wrist and stab stitched it down. (I also stab stitched my finger a couple of times.)

I turned the lining hem up inside the sleeve slightly more (around 1.75cm) and whip stitched that into place. There were a couple of spots where I clipped a little triangle where the fabric was a bit tight and pulling. I used to sew the hem and lining together in one step, but I found that often the lining and fashion fabric would stretch at different rates and sometimes the lining would start to poke out a bit, so now I hem the two layers seperately.

  

The final step after pressing the hem with an iron was to mark and sew five eyelets in each sleeve head. I opened the fabric up with an awl, went around the hole with a double running stitch and then enclosed the hole with a ring of satin stitch.

I think this fabric might be digitally printed. I have never worked with fabric like this before. I noticed that a part of the design seems to have lifted where a pin stuck it.

RHCC: Layer One (Detachable Sleeves) - Cream Sleeves

If you have been following me for any length of time, you would know that I love Renaissance accessories, and I love the flexibility that tie-on sleeves provide. It won't come as a shock that I have been working on the 'Accessories' layer of the River Haven Clothing Challenge.

I'd love to do all accessories, but my plan is to start with two pairs of detachable sleeves.

My sleeve fabric

I used my trusty old sleeve pattern and cut into the cream fabric first. I also cut the cotton lining. I zig zag stitched by machine around all the edges and then sewed up the seam that runs down the back of the arm on both the fashion fabric and the lining.

  
I trimmed one side of the seam overhang on the fashion fabric main seam and tucked the other side under and sewed it down to enclose the raw edges. I also stab stitched the seams of the lining flat to reduce bulk.

  

I put the right sides of the lining and fashion fabric tubes together (with a lot of double checking to make sure I was sewing the correct pieces) and machine stitched around the top of the armscye. I then clipped the curves to make sure the top of the sleeve would sit nicely and not be bulky, and then I turned it all right side out. I whip stitched around the top edge of the sleeve to make sure that the lining didn't roll out at any stage.

At this point I quickly embroidered an 'L' inside the left sleeve on the lining to help save time when lacing on sleeves on busy event days.

I marked 1.5cm seam allowance on the fashion fabric and turned the hem under at the wrist and stab stitched it down. Then I turned the lining hem up inside the sleeve slightly more (around 1.75cm) and whip stitched that into place. There were a couple of spots where I clipped a little triangle where the fabric was a bit tight and pulling. I once used to sew the hem and lining together in one step, but I found that often the lining and fashion fabric would stretch at different rates and sometimes the lining would start to poke out a bit.

The final step after pressing the hem with an iron was to mark and sew five eyelets in each sleeve head. I opened the fabric up with an awl, went around the hole with a double running stitch and then enclosed the hole with a ring of satin stitch.

This sleeve pattern is nice and roomy. I have seen slightly more narrow sleeves as well as wider ones in portraits from the 1530s-1550s, so there does seem some leeway in designs.

Image from: mid-1530s Paris Bordone - Portrait of a Lady with... (tumblr.com)

I love this portrait of Lady with a Boy by Paris Bordogne. 

The dress is the style I like to wear and her sleeves are beautiful; I'd love the whole outfit. I do wonder if a single fastening on that cut-away style of sleeve is practical for someone who doesn't have a maid to do her lifting and carrying, however. (It may also just be artistic licence on the part of Bordogne.) Hopefully I will have time in the future to play around with my pattern and possibly modify it slightly to try and achieve the general look of that sleeve, but with a stronger attachment point.

River Haven Clothing Challenge

Sorry about the delayed posting; a hard-to-kill chest infection and corresponding brain fog are making everything that much harder lately.

I have decided to enter the SCA River Haven Clothing Challenge. Here is some information about it-

"Ogres are like onions -they have layers.

And so does this clothing challenge.

THE BASICS:

From 1st October 2023 to 31 March 2024 River Haven will be running a clothing challenge.

The main focus of it is to encourage garb making within members of the group, but there will be prizes. How good will depend on Sponsors (more on that later).

Based loosely on the Calontir Clothing challenge and the IRCC, the challenge is to make an outfit of at least three layers during this time. It can be from any time/place that SCA covers.

Prior to the challenge you can research, source patterns, do mock ups, make toiles, source your fabric and other necessities, but fabric for the outfit itself is not to be cut until 1st October. This is also the date to nominate and put in your plan (late nominations/plans will be accepted, but end date for making the outfit is final.)

There will be check in points on 1 December, 1 February, and 1 April (final date). One layer is to be submitted at each of these. More on processes to come.

There will be three divisions. Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced. Please look honestly at which category most suits your skills and nominate for that one. The three categories will be judged separately."

I am not entering for prizes, more for accountability. I need new garb, but don't enjoy the process so hopefully this will help to motivate me.

I had to start late because I had other deadlines that must take priority, so I am already quite behind.

'Is this wise?' I hear you say. Probably not. :-)

'Is it sensible to take on another project when you are drowning in unfinished projects and battling health issues/starting a new round of appointments with a new specialist?' Also No.

Embroidery Designs - Pomegranates

Some Renaissance embroidery designs with pomegranates:

Design from 'A Scholehouse for the Needle' by Richard Shorleyker, (1632), individual pages reproduced on Pinterest

Image taken from: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b10526079n/f69.item

From The Trevellyon Miscellany (1608) available on Pinterest.  More information can be found here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trevelyon_Miscellany_of_1608

From The Trevellyon Miscellany (1608) available on Pinterest.  More information can be found here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trevelyon_Miscellany_of_1608

Completed Owl Tabbard

I thought you might like to see how the embroidered owl tabbard looked when it was completed. Sir Eva did a lovely job of cutting out and couching down all the slips, as well as drafting and putting the garment together and adding the couched dividers on the shoulders.

I also got to see how the eagle brustfleck (that I helped Sir Eva with previously) looked when worn:

Beaded Necklace in the Style of Lord Leicester's

 I recently made a necklace inspired by late period Elizabethan portraiture. 

This piece is made of agate and glass beads and is inspired by the necklace worn in this portrait of Robert Dudley, 1st Earl of Leicester c. 1560 (Portrait attributed to Steven van der Meulen [active: 1543 - 1563/4] and held in the Wallace Collection).

Image from: Wallace Collection Online - Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester

The necklace has three strands of tiger tail which the white glass beads are strung on, and all three wires go through the black agate beads. The ends are finished with a silver hook and rod clasp. I made the necklace shorter than Lord Leicester's because it was made for a lady to wear unadorned and her style is less flamboyant than his.

Baronial A&S Tablecloth/s

Something I have been concentrating on for the last couple of weeks is making up a new A&S tablecloth for the Barony.

The old A&S tablecloth that I made some time in the 2000s is really showing it's age, and we had some blue tablecloths in storage that were not being used. Someone suggested that they be turned into A&S tablecloths which sounded like a great idea.

I machine-sewed on some white bias binding around the edges of the tablecloth and marked out the candle-in-arch A&S design with a template. I made up some fabric paints using acrylic and textile medium and started to paint. I thought a couple of coats would do it, but each motif ended up needing seven or eight coats because of the composition of the fabric and the way that it soaked up the paint.

The motifs haven't turned out as crisply as I would have liked, but the overall effect is much nicer than the previous tablecloth.

Split Stitch Owl Design

 

I recently had a chance to help a friend with a project for an upcoming ceremony. The project involved split stitching on velvet, which I had never done before.

The texture and pile of the fabric made stitching very different to stitching on cotton or linen, and it took some adjusting to. 

If you are planning an embroidery project on velvet fabric, I would recommend allowing a bit of extra time.

It was a bit of a rush but I am quite happy with how it turned out. The lovely design is by Sir Eva and the owls will be cut out and appliqued onto a garment.

Embroidery Challenge Piece

I recently had the opportunity to present my embroidery challenge piece and it was well received. I thrifted a linen napkin with (what looks like) crochet edging, and used running stitch in silk to embroider a heraldic sea horse. I also added a running stitch around the edge of the napkin.

The theme of the challenge was 'Animals and/or heraldic". I originally planned to do a more elaborately embroidered partlet for the challenge, but this last year has been hectic, so that plan did not come together.

Pearl and Pelican Necklace

The beading bug has obviously bitten me, because this week I did another beading project.

I got some lovely pearls and a pewter pendant from Mistress Kiriel, and this week strung them up on tiger tail wire with some glass rainbow beads. I used a simple ring and bar closure, which is really helpful if you have issues with your hands and wrists.

A very simple, fast and satisfying project!

Beaded Challenge Mementoes

Being a keen embroiderer, I try to run a local embroidery challenge every year or so. The themes vary, but the idea is to provide some motivation to create a new embroidery piece and arrange a forum to display the pieces created. Any skill level is welcomed, and the Challenge hopefully encourages people to participate without any of the pressures of a formal competition.

A lot happened in my local SCA group last year, including one of our members winning Crown, and so people were very busy with other things. The Embroidery Challenge extended into 2023 as a result, and people will finally have a chance to display their work this month. 

I made some small beaded tokens to give to participants as a memento of this year's Challenge. (2022 because the Challenge started last year.)

They are just small beads and a date pendant threaded onto tiger tail wire and secured with a metal crimp. Sounds like an easy make, but cold, shaky hands and beading do not mix well. Needless to say, the task took longer than expected, and I spent almost as much time trying to find and pick up all the beads I dropped before the puppy found and ate them!

Banner Bags

I have a lot of projects on the go at the moment, but I did spend a couple of hours recently making some bags to store some banners for my group. It was a very simple project, but one which really rekindled my enjoyment of crafting because I decided to use potato stamps to put the banner numbers on the bags.

I hadn't used a potato stamp since I was a child (and my skills have not improved since then!) but I really enjoyed it. The results were not great, but boy I had fun with it. 

I must try and get some woodblock stamps in future, and learn about fabric stamping.

'Portrait of a Lady' by Scipione Pulzone

Portrait of a Lady by Scipione Pulzone

(also known as 'Portrait Of A Lady, Half Length, Wearing A Black Velvet And Ermine-Trimmed Dress With A Lace Collar And Head-Shawl' by the Florentine School) - check out that lace veil!

 Image from: WikiGallery.org

Red Velveteen Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves

Sleeves again this week, and boy! am I happy with these! So rich and soft - I love them. I got the velveteen before the quality of cotton velveteen being offered by my local Spotlight dropped, and the fabric is lush.

These were created in the same way as previous iterations: the pattern is my roomy, self-drafted pattern that is super comfortable and very wearable. The centre back seam of velveteen and stash fabric lining was machine sewn and hand felled. Then the pieces were put together, wrong way around, and machine sewn. The arc at the top of the sleeve was clipped, and then the sleeve turned right way out ("bagged out"). I generally choose to do a small whip stitch around the top of the sleeve to stop the lining rolling out with wear, and I did that with these. I usually embroider an 'L' on the left sleeve lining before hemming also, just to help with speedier dressing on those days when I am in a rush or brain foggy.

I hemmed the outer sleeve first, anchoring it with small stab stitches. Then I hemmed the lining; turning the lining under quite a bit more so that it won't show when I move my arms.

The final step is to slog through one of my hated jobs - eyelets. I am getting faster at them, but they are very hard on my sore hands. I generally use 4 strands of waxed sewing thread, and use an awl to make a hole. I then do a double running stitch around the hole and then cover the edges with what is essentially a satin stitch.

I am super happy with this pair of sleeves; they feel so wonderful to touch.

Purple Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves

I'm still working on the UFO pile, and this week's completed item is a pair of Italian style tie-on sleeves in linen. 

They are lined in black cotton remnants, with hand worked eyelets. I had to ease in the linen on one of the sleeves, which has led to a small amount of wrinkling around the wrist on one of the sleeves. Hopefully it will settle with wear, or at least not be noticeable, because I don't feel inspired to unpick the sleeve and lining hem and re-sew the inner seam of the lining (especially since the inner seams on sleeve and linings are felled).

 

Italian Renaissance Hair Jewellery

Yet another hair band, with pieces from two different filigree bracelets sewn onto a velvet ribbon band and backed with grosgrain ribbon to reduce slippage. I used three wig clips on the back for extra security.

Italian Renaissance Hair Jewellery

 Another hair band this week, constructed in the same way as the previous ones. This one has necklace components sewn on to the velvet ribbon. Probably too sparkly to really be appropriate for sixteenth century, but I couldn't resist it!

This one has 2mm seed beads sewn along the edges. I recently saw a beading technique demonstrated on Instagram that might be useful for this sort or project - I will let you know how I go.

Italian Renaissance Hair Jewellery

I recently finished another billament/hair accessory. This one has been sitting around in a half-finished state for literally years because I wasn't super happy with how it looked.

The flower shaped findings came to be with a 'patina' that I wasn't delighted about, and when I made the band up, it just seemed to look a bit shabby and be lacking something. So it sat in the UFO pile for a long time.

I resolved to finish it as part of my recent UFO completion drive, and I added matte gold seed beads (4mm) on the joins between the flat findings, to disguise the stitches and give add a bit of textural variety. I then started sewing the grosgrain ribbon on the back, and added white tiny seed beads as I went. When that was complete, I added three wig clips on the back to hold it in my hair.

It is still not my favourite accessory that I have ever made, but I am pleased that it is finished. Hopefully it will look nice when worn.

 

This image (a detail of Sister Minerva from 'Portrait of the family of the artist' by Sofonisba Anguissola) shows how the band will be worn; either in front of dressed hair such as hair taping, or in front of a caul. Image from: Sofonisba Anguissola Portrait of the family of the artist. Fragment. Sister minerva, 1568, 122×157 cm: Description of the artwork | Arthive

Here is the full painting:

(from Sofonisba Anguissola | Europeana)

Italian Renaissance Hair Jewellery

I'm having a break from boring sleeve sewing and finishing up some headwear that has been sitting around for a long time.

I really like the Italian style of wearing a necklace or decorated band in the hair in front of the braid like in this portrait by Sofonisba Anguissola

Image from: Sofonisba Anguissola - Portrait of the Artist's Sisters Playing Chess - WGA00697 - The Game of Chess (Sofonisba Anguissola) - Wikipedia

Since a lot of our SCA events are outside in public places, I don't feel confident pinning jewellery to my hair, and instead have been sewing jewellery components and beads to velvet bands that are secured into the hair with wig clips.

It is fiddly work, doesn't take up much room to store, and very easy to put off for another day!

I recently finished this one, which has bracelet pieces sewn onto a velvet band and separated with gold coils. The edges have tiny gold seed beads sewn on, and the back is faced with grosgrain ribbon (which helps grip the hair). I use a central wig clip and one at each end to secure.

I got a lot of elements suitable for this type of band from shops like Lovisa, Diva and Collete pre-Covid. I don't really go shopping like I used to, but thrift stores and op shops can be a good place to pick up old bracelets that you can break down to make this style of headwear.

May Day Challenge - Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves #3 (Purple)

 Last year Duchess Constanzia Moralez of Lochac set a Challenge to all those interested -The May Day Challenge (a personal challenge on 'how to improve your SCA in any way by May Day, AS LVII'). 

Image credit: R. Vess

My Challenge was to work on that UnFinished Object pile and get some items finished. My friend won Crown during the Challenge, and so some of my energy was diverted into helping create garb for Them and Their Household, but I did manage to get some items finished before the Challenge ended.

This pair of sleeves had been languishing in the UFO pile, cut out but unsewn. I machine sewed the centre back seam on the lining and outer fabrics, and stab stitched the seams open. Then the sleeves were joined at the shoulder seam and the lining and outer parts were hemmed individually. I then whip stitched around the top of each sleeve to prevent any movement in the lining, and worked five eyelets at the top of each sleeve.

These sleeves look blue in the picture but are actually purple.

May Day Challenge - Tie-On Italian Style Sleeves #2 (White with gold trim)

 Last year Duchess Constanzia Moralez of Lochac set a Challenge to all those interested -The May Day Challenge (a personal challenge on 'how to improve your SCA in any way by May Day, AS LVII'). 

Image credit: R. Vess

My Challenge was to work on that UnFinished Object pile and get some items finished. My friend won Crown during the Challenge, and so some of my energy was diverted into helping create garb for Them and Their Household, but I did manage to get some items finished before the Challenge ended.

Second is another pair of sleeves that just needed two more eyelets added on each sleeve and the top edge whip- stitched to be wearable.

May Day Challenge - Italian Style Tie-on Sleeves #1 (Cream damask)

Last year Duchess Constanzia Moralez of Lochac set a Challenge to all those interested -The May Day Challenge (a personal challenge on how to improve your SCA in any way by May Day, AS LVII). 

Image credit: R. Vess

My Challenge was to work on that UnFinished Object pile and get some items finished. My friend won Crown during the Challenge, and so some of my energy was diverted into helping create garb for Them and Their Household, but I did manage to get some items finished before the Challenge ended.

First up is a pair of sleeves that just needed two more eyelets added on each sleeve. (An easy task to put off, because I hate doing eyelets!)